Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Since my car was idling a bit funny, so I took out the AAC value to clean up on the weekend.

and I found out there was no gasket for it, should there be one?

my car is 1997 Stagea series one with rb25det(not NEO).

any help will be much appreciate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345162-aac-value-gasket/
Share on other sites

Thank you, guys.

found one for sale on ebay USA, $45 US including postage, good price?

does anyone know where can I find one local and how much?

Sam, $45 for a piece materialof you could get from any Auto shop for $5.Someone may have a valve and could trace a pattern for you.

As i said before a good quality gasket goo will do the job.

Edited by 66yostagea

Hi there, I have an AAC valve gasket that i purchased for my stagea but they got me the one for the Non NEO motor where mine is the NEO, being a differsnt shape. Part number I have on the packet is 23785-57Y00. If someone can FAST your VIN and check that is the correct number for your vehicle, you can PM your details and I will post it tomorrow. Nissan Genuine, still in pack. Not sure how much I paid for it but if you PM me then I will even pay for the postage stamp and being by snail mail, depending on your location from me you will most likely get it early next week.

Dave

Thank you, guys.

found one for sale on ebay USA, $45 US including postage, good price?

does anyone know where can I find one local and how much?

Gasket goo should do the trick but if you want genuine, check with some of the forum traders. They get some good prices on gaskets and other consumables, plus you are supporting SAU while you are helping yourself.

an AAC valve for a S2 is just shy of $600 new from nissan, and that was even with trade price, mind you they didn't have any in australia so it had to come from japan. i cant really see much change in price from that for a S1 AAC valve. is your valve stuffed? sourcing a 2nd hand unit from the wreckers will be easier and cheaper.

My post above stated that I had one for a NON NEO motor NEW UNUSED GENUINE. All you had to do was Private Message me your address and I would have sent it AT NO COST. Check my post above and get someone to FAST your VIN and check the part number matches. If you still want it let me know, if not then just use the gasket paper.

My post above stated that I had one for a NON NEO motor NEW UNUSED GENUINE. All you had to do was Private Message me your address and I would have sent it AT NO COST. Check my post above and get someone to FAST your VIN and check the part number matches. If you still want it let me know, if not then just use the gasket paper.

thanks, David.

PM sent.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Damn it, I was at work last night, and stayed in a room there during the storm with the car outside, but undercover, I just went downstairs and well....there was a large steel locker that has come from some place last night, it wasn't anywhere I could see yesterday, and yeap, it landed on the fraking car....of course it did..... LOL So, I'll need to take it back for paint and panel, luckily it was only the boot that took the hit, so it could have been worse Serves me right for staying at work and getting on the cans with some of the boys
    • Yeah, really happy with how it all turned out As for aftermarket lip, nah, I'm not really a fan for practically reasons on a street car that gets driven everywhere  I did have the full lower kit on my 2015 STI, but found the front lip scrapped alot, even at stock 4x4ish ride height As the NC sits now, with the lowest point of the car at 110mm, so just legal, some steep driveways and steep speed humps will still "just" scrap those little plastic OEM air dam thingies on the undertray just before the front wheels
    • Here's one I help build and tuned a decade ago, Garrett  GTX3071R Gen 1, T3 twin scroll 0.83 rear housing. Went from larger 272 cams down to smaller Tomei Poncams to help with the low end. S13 non VCT motor. Car was purpose built for the track, hence low down was the focus. Note the actual dyno chart shows lower boost, however the EBC and boost gauge showed 1.9Bar (Ignore the torque, I was young and didn't know how to set derived torque)  
    • I’m doing some side developments on SR20det S13 engines, its one my hobby cars used it to compare flow capacity of some smaller size wheels. SR20det is one of another JDM legendary engines I'm sure there are plenty of SR enthusiasts on this forum, I will share results some common turbo configurations here. a quick run down of what the car is: Wide body 180sx Type X with black top engine (blue). It has: Stock bottom end Haltech 1500 ECU 5-0 motorsports trigger kit Kelford SR20DET Beehive Spring with Titanium Retainers Kelford Cams SR20DET S13 188-B 268/272 Cams G25-660 Turbocharger in T2 .64 rear housing internally gated ARP Head studs MLS head gasket 1000CC ID injectors Walbro 450L Fuel pump Front mount cooler kit JJR’s 3 inches turbo back exhaust (its too short for the 180sx it had to be extended) Pump 98 fuel Hub Dyno tune So far made 270rwkws at 22psi full boost by 4500RPM. Engine is very knock limited hence a pretty bad looking top end. From previous experiences it seems like SR20dets are happier with bigger size turbine, some thing like a GT30 would make way better top end, but on same time response is lost. It won't be a problem with S15 VCT engines. I'll be testing alternative turbine housing, turbine wheel and possibly dump pipe options for extra flow to resolve the problem and of course E85 would resolve all the issues.            
    • Awesome writeup and details. Thanks for sharing the story so far. I can relate to parts of it with my previous car and some of the issues I had to deal with.
×
×
  • Create New...