Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My car has just started to miss badly, sounds a bit like a WRX and seems to be only running on 5 cylinders.

Car seem to run fine when cold, but after about 15min of driving the miss returns.

As soo as i stopped the car i ripped out the coil packs and checked the risistances. When hot/warm cylinder 3 was giving strange readings, whilst the other 5 cylinders all read 1.3ohm.

Now that all 6 coil packs are cold they are all reading the same resistance????

So how and where much for a full set of new coil packs, whats the go with 2nd hand, someone lend me a spare RB20DET coil pack so i can ensure thats the prob before shelling out money!

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34527-rb20det-engine-miss/
Share on other sites

My car has just started to miss badly, sounds a bit like a WRX and seems to be only running on 5 cylinders.

Car seem to run fine when cold, but after about 15min of driving the miss returns.

As soo as i stopped the car i ripped out the coil packs and checked the risistances. When hot/warm cylinder 3 was giving strange readings, whilst the other 5 cylinders all read 1.3ohm.

Now that all 6 coil packs are cold they are all reading the same resistance????

So how and where much for a full set of new coil packs, whats the go with 2nd hand, someone lend me a spare RB20DET coil pack so i can ensure thats the prob before shelling out money!

Thanks

time to contact Doughboy :)

time to contact Doughboy  :)

"oh where are thou Doughboy"... :Oops: Are RB20/25/26 could packs interchangeable????

Cant complain, this is the first problem the car has given me in 4 years, save the speedo cable and alternator :)

Also compression test would be nice.

No way, what i dont know cant hurt me... :) Got to get the car ready to drive down to Melb on the weekend, so if i cant get this sorted may be better of flying down :)

Roy, Did I ever tell you the story about how my car sounded like a WRX ??? Ended up needing a new engine.......

I hope it is not the same problem.

BTW - I think they are the same in all RB series see here for Splitfire replacements:

http://xspeed.dreamhost.com/catalog/produc...products_id=446

B-man, if it was every time i turned the key id be worried, but it comes and goes, and always runs fine when car is cold...only happens sometimes when the car has been running around for 15 minutes.

I might just fly down, its cheaper option anyway. Leave the car for 3 months and it may foix itself.

well obviously when the engine has been running for that 15mins or so the engine bay temps are quite high, coil packs do have a failure sympton of which they will deteriorate when hot, and work fine when cold. Relatively speaking this mayb the problem. I think if u are suspect of a coil then get a Coil off a mates car put it on and run the car, see if it is now gone. Easy way to rule out the coil pack in doubt

Im thinkin git is most likely a coil pack, but what is to go with replacing them. Being pedantic im tempted to replace them all, but what isa set worth?

And could be the injectors, as they were installed about 2 days before the problem started, though they had been cleaned, flow tested and spray patterns checked...its posssible the guy that did it wiped them down, put new pintle caps on them and charged me???? But the running fine/bad...hot/cold thing has me thinking coil pack.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The water pump is know to leak as well. So if the coolant is low checking that first as well as hoses. 
    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
×
×
  • Create New...