Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The trionic system uses the resistor ® type spark plug to read combustion chamber conditions and "inform" the ECU about boost and ignition advance requirements for the engine in real time and continuously. This is why you must use resistor type plugs

wtf? :)

Hanaldo, here it is in a nutshell.

Iridiums and platinums have the benefit over coppers that the centre electrode lasts longer and therefore the plugs have a longer life. This you have understood correctly.

This is why nearly all cars from factory come with iridiums/platinums and why most people in a standard car run iridiums/platinums.

In a modified car pushing a lot of boost and horsepower the centre electrode and ground electrode fouls up quicker than they do in a stanadard car. Dependent on the tune they can foul up a hell of a lot quicker.

Since they foul up they will start to missfire. This has nothing to do with what the electrode is made out of, it will happen regardless.

Since plugs foul up quicker in a highly modified car, there is not much point using an expensive iridium/platinum spark plug. Hence people use the cheaper alternative, a copper.

Now the added benefit of a copper plug is they can be gapped down when high boost levels are used. You are not ment to gap down an iridum/platinum plug because the electrode can get damaged very easily and render the plug useless.

So yes your tuner is right, however I don't think you will need to go below a 0.8 gap. I have run 20psi and nitrous through mine on a 0.8 copper plug through Splitfire coilpacks and not had a missfire if the plugs were in good condition.

As for the resistor plug, yes he is correct, you are ment to use a resistor spark plug on a RB ignition system. Personally I don't know what the effects are of not running one on an RB are as I have never done so.

So to conclude you want the following spark plug in an RB engine:

BCPR6E

Obviously the heat change is dependent on mods. I use 7's because I need to for the nitrous and high boost level. Other plugs will fit such as:

BPR6E

BPR6ES

BKR6E

etc.

The main differences here are the S on the end stands for "Standard", which means the spark plug doesn't have a V groove on the centre electrode which is ment to give a better burn. So if you can, get one without the S on the end.

And the main difference between the BKR and the BCPR is that the BCPR is slightly longer on the end of the spark plug going into the coil pack than the BKR.

Inside the coilpack there is a little spring that makes the connection between the coilpack and the spark plug. The BCPR compresses this spring more and gives a better contact (once again helps against missfires.)

*I used to sell NGK plugs for years at Autobarn and had many talks with the NGK rep. On a weekly basis I would get guys in imports coming in complaining about missfires due to them running wrong plugs*

Edited by PM-R33

i've run both resistor and non resistor type with no noticeable difference, works the same either way but yes technically your supposed to use resistor type for skylines.

coilpacks are the biggest factor when it comes to plug gaps, for example when i had standard coilpacks, which were pretty tired, i had to gap the plugs down to ~.5mm to stop it misfiring under boost. yes this isnt ideal but its better than misfiring and fixes the problem until you can get new coilpacks. every cars different but basically you want to run the biggest gap you can without misfire. if you can play around with gaps yourself do some experimentation to find what works best, if your paying a mechanic then its probably best to just go straight to .7-.8

Hanaldo, here it is in a nutshell.

Iridiums and platinums have the benefit over coppers that the centre electrode lasts longer and therefore the plugs have a longer life. This you have understood correctly.

This is why nearly all cars from factory come with iridiums/platinums and why most people in a standard car run iridiums/platinums.

In a modified car pushing a lot of boost and horsepower the centre electrode and ground electrode fouls up quicker than they do in a stanadard car. Dependent on the tune they can foul up a hell of a lot quicker.

Since they foul up they will start to missfire. This has nothing to do with what the electrode is made out of, it will happen regardless.

Since plugs foul up quicker in a highly modified car, there is not much point using an expensive iridium/platinum spark plug. Hence people use the cheaper alternative, a copper.

Now the added benefit of a copper plug is they can be gapped down when high boost levels are used. You are not ment to gap down an iridum/platinum plug because the electrode can get damaged very easily and render the plug useless.

So yes your tuner is right, however I don't think you will need to go below a 0.8 gap. I have run 20psi and nitrous through mine on a 0.8 copper plug through Splitfire coilpacks and not had a missfire if the plugs were in good condition.

As for the resistor plug, yes he is correct, you are ment to use a resistor spark plug on a RB ignition system. Personally I don't know what the effects are of not running one on an RB are as I have never done so.

So to conclude you want the following spark plug in an RB engine:

BCPR6E

Obviously the heat change is dependent on mods. I use 7's because I need to for the nitrous and high boost level. Other plugs will fit such as:

BPR6E

BPR6ES

BKR6E

etc.

The main differences here are the S on the end stands for "Standard", which means the spark plug doesn't have a V groove on the centre electrode which is ment to give a better burn. So if you can, get one without the S on the end.

And the main difference between the BKR and the BCPR is that the BCPR is slightly longer on the end of the spark plug going into the coil pack than the BKR.

Inside the coilpack there is a little spring that makes the connection between the coilpack and the spark plug. The BCPR compresses this spring more and gives a better contact (once again helps against missfires.)

*I used to sell NGK plugs for years at Autobarn and had many talks with the NGK rep. On a weekly basis I would get guys in imports coming in complaining about missfires due to them running wrong plugs*

i agree :(

So to conclude you want the following spark plug in an RB engine:

BCPR6E

Thanks for all the info, Phill.

Would the following be alright to purchase??

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-NGK-V-Power-Performance-Spark-Plugs-BCPR6E-11-5632-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem45f4ff0ad7QQitemZ300463098583QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

apart from the 1.1mm gap they'll be fine. you'll probs have to gap them down a bit

Thanks, ended up buying some other random sparks from a shop down the road. I'll get the deet of them when i get home (if I remember) and I'll post them up.

They seem to be running alright.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @dbm7 and @GTSBoy thank you both very much! will give that a shot!
    • Sounds good. Provided the panel is flat/level I'd be happy to start the painting process.  While you are learning, for sure you could do this. Its only paint, you can always sand it all back and start again. Its only your time and money on materials, but while you're learning, really its time and money spent on your education.  Once you know how to do this bodywork and painting, you won't want to waste your time and money on frivolous activities lol. 
    • Yep I will use a guide coat after putting filler, I will do it on the whole panel as I'm a beginner so chances I've made quite a few errors. In that photo, I think that was a low spot, I just for example said to pretend it's flat but I will put filler + guide coat after to assess where I'm at. Yep with that picture, the panel is wet as it rained when I took the photo. But all those scratches are completely smooth, I went over it with 240 grit and can't feel it, even with my nail digging into it. I was legit thinking to buy a 2k can and spray primer to see how it turns out but then thought to myself it's going to be a mess doing it haha. Good mention there. Thanks for all that info I think I know what to do next.
    • Prior to laying down the primer, you need to make sure the surface is completely level. For example, based on this picture, I strongly suspect that the areas marked in blue are higher then the area marked in green.  If you spray primer over this entire area, then paint and clear it, the finished result will 100% show the low area. It will stick out like dogs balls. Unfortunately the paint won't magically level out the low areas as you lay it down.  Without seeing it in person, I expect that the green area will need to be filled, then use a guide coat and check that the entire repair area is level with a large sanding block.  With this picture, are you saying that even though you can see the scratches, the panel is in fact completely smooth and flat? If this is the case sure you could prep and paint it as it is.     The picture with the paint you described as blistering, it's hard for me to comment on from the photo alone. It looks like the panel is wet? Dunno, looks strange. Does the panel feel as smooth as glass when you run your hand over it? **** Going back to your question again, generally you would only sand the primer if you made a mistake while laying down the primer.  If the panel is prepped properly and you lay the primer down properly, you should not need to sand the primer.  This wouldn't work - Don't prep the panel. Spray primer and see how it turns out. Sand the areas where the issues appear. Spray more primer and see how it turns out. Sand the areas....... Yeah you'd go round and round in circles getting no where. 
×
×
  • Create New...