Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Im not after a name brand and i dont have deep pockets, but im after a decent amp that will run two 10" subs that i will be able to crank up.

Im about to buy in a week or two..

The last amp i had blew up twice after getting if fixed again and i dont want an amp that is going to be underpowerd or die on me.

If you could give me any suggestions that would be great.

Thanks

Brendan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34540-amp-to-match-2-subs/
Share on other sites

Finally - I got this info on it off the web..

Peak Power Handling (watts): 500 watt

RMS Power Handling (watts): 120 watt

Diameter (inch/mm): 10/250

Frequency Range (Hz): 20 - 3000 Hz

Sensitivity (dB/W/m): 93

Aluminium Cone

Chromium-Plated Basket

Ceramic Magnet System: 1134g

if you want something cheap - me and my bro recently put an alpine 400 series amp driving two alpine 10" subs into his silvia. easily as loud as the two 12's in mine, just not as "penetrating" i guess. i use a rockford amp, for him we grabbed a second hand jobbie for less than $300 from cash converters! they are guaranteed for 3 months, he's had it over a year now with no dramas. they cost about 800 new for what we bought.

something to think about if you're on a tight budget.

otherwise kicker make some decent cheapish amps (audiocom sells them) and some of stratfield car radio's more expensive amps i've seen good results with. you get what you pay for though, i'm sure everyone knows that!!

dont get sucked in by the 'wow' factor of 1000watts etc. or any max power settings.

if ur subs are SVC 4ohms, get a 2ohm stable monoblock to run them in parallel,

ur info doesnt say they are but im assuming they are...if each sub has only 1 set of terminals then they are.

the srx2s is a nice amp, very powerful for ur application and i'd recommend it over any of the other listed amps. if its in ur budget, get it off fhrx. leaves a lot of headroom for any upgrades u might want. i know i was considering that for my amp a while ago, in the end i got a 2nd hand audison lrx1.400

I tend not to worry about the MAX power ratings as you hardly ever hit them anyway when listening to music. Look for the continous power ratings.

Other things to look out for is damping factor (you want it to stay as far above 50 as possible) and THD (anything below 0.6 is okay for a sub amp).

either max or rms, not both.

who told u to look at max ? pretty wierd considering a 1000watt amp might output 1000W for a single frequency for a single moment in time for a certain voltage and load resistance. and hover around to 25watt mark the rest of the time.

look at rms figures, and compare amps to what ur going to run, in this case, 2OHMS not 4OHMS, 12V when the cars off, 14volts when the cars running.

audison rate their amps at 14.4 volts.

Would an amp with these specs run my subs ok?

Its a xplod amp, its just that i might beable to get a good price on it..

1200W max power

200W x 2 RMS into 4 ohms, 20Hz - 20kHz @ 0.1% THD

500W x 1 RMS into 4 ohms, 20Hz - 20kHz @ 0.15% THD

Class A/B

Variable 50-300Hz low pass filter

40Hz EQ boost

Line level through-put

MOSFET output stage & power supply

RCA & speaker level inputs

something like that would do, as ur subs can only handle 120rms each.

if u can get a cheap price on it and audio's not really ur number 1 priority, yeh go for it. suit ur purposes nicely. Sony's not really well regarded for its car audio stuff though..but depends on ur price (:

doesnt leave much room for upgrade later on thats all...that being said, something is better than nothing. will sound quite nice with 200rms into those subs .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...