Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I wasnt sure where to post this, but I figured I would give it a go in this subforum. If there is a better place to put it, mods please do so.

I have a stagea r34 NEO rb25 that ive been working on for the past few months. Having done most of the wiring myself I got the car to start and idle but there seems to be one or two small things left.

On my ecu loom, the plastic clip is missing a wire on pin 31, which on most wiring pinouts has it labeled as having something to do with the ignition relay. If I ground the brown ignition relay myself the car will start but Nissan designed the relay to switch to ground through the ecu. This must mean that the ecu is not getting a signal from some input causing it to not ground the relay.

Here is a pinout for the ecu:

https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B9Awbp ... ist&num=50

Does anyone know what input im missing?

Why does my loom not have this pin?

I asked around a few months ago and it seemed someone else also had a computer with no wire on pin 31 making me believe I might be using the wrong pinout. Everyone always says the R34 GTT and Stagea wiring diagrams are the same so I am very confused on what to do now. I was told that if i supply my own ground as I have been doing, there is a chance I would burn up the ECU. Another option I have is to put my own pin in there and give it 12V. Im pretty scared to do that though, because I bought this as a whole front clip, and it obviously ran before so I dont want to start experimenting. I obviously would like to get the issue fixed since it seems like a small one, so any help would greatly be appreciate.

thanks!

I can't open your file but no matter there is another R34 pinout diagram on this Stagea section in the DIY section above. Pin 31 is supposed to be G/O (green / orange I presume) but that probably doesn't help. I have a wiring diagram for the R34 ecu. It is for an auto as it is most likely that your engine and ecu came from an auto. I also have one for a manual which is slightly more simple. If you give me an email address I will send it to you as an attachment as I have scanned it in high resolution so it is quite a big file.

Send your address to me at:

[email protected]

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there it is trickier. Ecutek seems to be one of those closed ecosystems where everyone password protects their tunes which means I either choose a tuner and can't change from them and can't make any changes myself for any reason, or I have to buy the tuning software (about $4k) and then get someone to tune from scratch (which is not simple with all the multi dimensional tables these days). Once you buy about 300 "flash points" per ECU you can get it tuned and add their "RaceROM" function which hacks extra functionality like launch control onto the ECU, and also makes extra data available for logging over CAN Not sure what I'll do there yet; I'm tempted to use one of the overseas shops that does billions of remote tunes of the platform instead of starting from scratch locally, a lot can be done online these days.
    • Can I log IAT eh? Well, can now So next thing was looking at data logging. Not straight forward because none of the motorsport displays have cracked the nissan/inifinti CAN and ECU based displays don't do g logging, lap timing, predictive laps etc.  So, I bought an Ecutek dongle from Tunehouse (Oz distributor). Even without a tune onboard that allows display and logging of about 50 parameters via Android (and presumably iOS) app. Approx 600 for the bluetooth + Usb version That gives me (pretty ugly but) functional dash display on Android And logging of these parameters I'll play around a bit over the break, but at least now I can make sure I have oil pressure when I get to some track testing.  
    • I don't know what globes/headlight connector they run, but I'd be looking for a female adapter to plug into the existing headlight on one side. Something like this https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/256017245989 Then I'd use a pair of single input, double output relays (one for low, one for high), mount them in a spare space in the fuse box if you want to to look more original (and be easier to maintain). Then 2 new power sources from the main stud in the fuse box via a fuse to each relay. Low from the headlight adapter pin triggers low relay and high from the high headlight adapter pin triggers high and low. Earth the relays and new headlight sockets and off you go. Because it triggers off the original headlight all of the dipping/hi on/high flash all still works
    • I reached 10 posts and wanted to make my build thread too but still can't add pictures to posts so I have no idea how it works 😂
×
×
  • Create New...