Jump to content
SAU Community

Ignition Timing Problem,

beRwick_GTRage

By beRwick_GTRage,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

actually 20 deg is the 5th mark from the left. the marks from the left are, 0 5 10 15 20 25 30. ignore any reading you get in consult at idle and go off the timing light.

which throttle body and TPS are you running? are you sure your unplugging the correct TPS plug?

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted
the 4th mark from the left. on conzult my timing sits on 15 degrees when at idle.

how do i get to base idle mode using my consult cable?

4th mark is 15 degrees. as qwk32 said (and i meant to say), the 5th mark is 20 degrees, 4th mark is only 15 degrees, so your timing is correct as it is at the 4th mark which is 15 degrees and the consult is showing 15 degrees.

actually 20 deg is the 5th mark from the left. the marks from the left are, 0 5 10 15 20 25 30. ignore any reading you get in consult at idle and go off the timing light.

which throttle body and TPS are you running? are you sure your unplugging the correct TPS plug?

yeah my bad, can't count, LOL (had the workshop manual open and all, LOL)

beRwick_GTRage Rising Star

beRwick_GTRage

Posted
  • Author
Posted
4th mark is 15 degrees. as qwk32 said (and i meant to say), the 5th mark is 20 degrees, 4th mark is only 15 degrees, so your timing is correct as it is at the 4th mark which is 15 degrees and the consult is showing 15 degrees.

yeah my bad, can't count, LOL (had the workshop manual open and all, LOL)

sorry, i meant the 5th mark. i cant go any lower than the fifth mark with the tps unplugged.

also when idling normally with the tps in, i can set it to 15 degrees easily and the car runs nicely

when i pull the tps plug out it runs like crap and i cant set it any lower than 20

i cant be pulling out the wrong plug? probably am;

heres a pic of the one im pulling out. this is an rb25neo out of a stagea

dscn1840x.jpg

beRwick_GTRage Rising Star

beRwick_GTRage

Posted
  • Author
Posted
just double check that colour of the wires of the plug match the colour of the wires of the plug on the tps, since both it and the plug underneath send wires off in the same direction.

the two plugs at the top both go to the tps.

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

sorry i should have mentioned, the bottom one (grey one) also goes to the TPS but it is a Throttle On/Off switch and is associated with an auto. what ecu are you running do you know? and auto or a manual one?

the black plug is the variable TPS signal you unplug when setting timing.

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted (edited)
ok so one if those plugs is for the tps and the other is for the throttle valve switch because this engine was from a auto stagea

do i pull out both plugs?

as above mate, you posted as i was replying. you don't unplug the bottom plug to set the timing. if your running the auto ecu, which isn't a problem, just make sure the bottom plug is plugged in incase the ecu is looking for that signal to help with idle time controls.

Edited by QWK32
beRwick_GTRage Rising Star

beRwick_GTRage

Posted
  • Author
Posted
as above mate, you posted as i was replying. you don't unplug the bottom plug to set the timing. if your running the auto ecu, which isn't a problem, just make sure the bottom plug is plugged in incase the ecu is looking for that signal to help with idle time controls.

ive been running an auto rb25neo stagea ecu; when warmed up and at idle timing sits at 15 degrees on the conzult software

when i put the car into base idle mode and try to adjust the timing i cant adjust it any lower than 20 degrees and it idles really rough.

i just tried a r34 manual rb25neo ecu; when warmed up and at idle timing sits at 5 degrees???? on the conzult software

and when i put the car in base idle mode it idles fine and am able to adjust the timing across the whole range

what options do i have?

beRwick_GTRage Rising Star

beRwick_GTRage

Posted
  • Author
Posted

problem solved.

used another timing light to confirm my readings. now its set to 15 degrees

and the car drives and runs fine

only problem is it wont start unless i remove the cas and turn it manually.

when its warm it starts without a problem

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jacobzking
      Feedback on these “rebuilt” Nismo injectors

      By jacobzking · Posted

      Thank you!
    • Duncan
      Feedback on these “rebuilt” Nismo injectors

      By Duncan · Posted

      I wouldn't be concerned at all, other than to suggest having them flow tested when you receive them to confirm they are reasonably similar, and then put the highest to lowest flowing ones in cylinder 6,1,5,2,4,3
    • jacobzking
      Feedback on these “rebuilt” Nismo injectors

      By jacobzking · Posted

      I’m only posting this cause I thought I had seen a bad review on these somewhere before. Any feedback? Would you guys recommend that if I do buy these I send em to RC to have em checked before installing. Or any other suggestions?   https://www.ebay.com/itm/114009965865?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=JDl-15yLQ8C&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=QTzlFXB1S-S&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
    • Shoota_77
      Shoota's R33 GT-R RB30/26

      By Shoota_77 · Posted

      They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • PLYNX
      BCNR33/ECR33 Door corner piece replacement

      By PLYNX · Posted

      Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
×
×
  • Create New...