Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a 1997 series 1 Stagea RS4. i have been using the search buttons but cant see anything recent for tuning a series 1 but plenty for a series 2. i have the standard car with just a HKS panel filter (not installed yet) and am wanting to get the power up to around 200 awkw and was wondering what parts would do the job?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345690-what-aftermarket-parts-for-200awkw/
Share on other sites

I have a 1997 series 1 Stagea RS4. i have been using the search buttons but cant see anything recent for tuning a series 1 but plenty for a series 2. i have the standard car with just a HKS panel filter (not installed yet) and am wanting to get the power up to around 200 awkw and was wondering what parts would do the job?
More than you might think! How much money do you want to spend?

Firstly an 80mm (three inch) exhaust from the turbo back - I prefer the split dump over the bellmouth.

Second an upgraded intercooler. A series 2 or GTT smic will do it but if you think you are going to want more power later you might as well get a return pipe front mount.

Thirdly to make a genuine 200awkw with an automatic awd Stagea you will need a better turbo -e.g. your stocker rebuilt by Hypergear or GCG

The most difficult part with an S1 is finding a way to tune it. I would suggest a Greddy E-manage.

A decent electronic boost controller would be nice .

This should get you 200 -220awkw

And finally you should probably invest in a new fuel pump (e.g. Walbro) as although the stocker may do it is quite old by now and you don't want to be caught out when it packs up.

Also change your brake fluid to say Motul RBF600 get some decent pads and a 24mm solid rear sway bar!

(I'm assuming you already have some decent tyres)

The above post is spot on

Once you start spending money the power goal of a SAFE 200awkw is the same for 250awkw

Set your goal higher, because 200awkw is not enough

hahaha niether is 250kw hey darrin :/ i also agree with kiwi except i wouldn't bother with a S2/R34 side mount intercooler, i don't think they are as good as some people say they are. i noticed heaps of heat soak with mine after a bit of spirited driving. go for a front mount, you can get them in different sizes so you will easily find something that fits the nose of a stagea. you can also get them in turnflow style so all the pipes meet up with your stock ones. the only other thing i'd add to what has already been said is get the auto looked at, a shift kit is a must when running more than stock power.

Sorry Shetlander to steal a bit of your post,but it's a good chance to ask...

So,you can get 200 awkw on stock injectors and pump?(apart for the issue of the age of the last)What about Z32 AFM,is it necesary ?or the stock could be ok ,let's say up to 220?

Edited by southern_tango

Freddy, 220-230kw is the max (safety wise) that you will get out of the stock AFM and injectors. Of course, there will be slight variances as per usual with different dyno's. Pushing injector duty cycle % combined with tuning past the AFM is not what you really want.

It would also be a good idea to replace your fuel pump if you're thinking about mods. The stocker would be a bit tired after over a decade of use.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well some mostly good news and some slight bad news.  Good news is cylinder 6 did in fact only require a honing and I'm good to run my 86.5mm pistons again. I should also get the block back by end of week. Bad news, had a few surprises pop up. First, main and rod bearings were trashed. No sign of any heat damage. I knew right away what caused this... I had not packed my oil pump originally and spent a lot more time than I would have liked cranking the motor to get oil pressure. It sounded fine once started so I chucked it up to luck and forgot about it. Luckily rod and crank are fine and just need new bearings. Engine builder agreed that this was the cause.    Another surprise that carbon covered up very well that I didn't catch, something got sucked up and went through cylinder 1, 2 and 3. Luckily this was no cause for concern, just needed a bit of cleaning up. Valves look fine but he will vacuum test the head this week to confirm. I'm presuming this was something left over from welding my intercooler piping, but we'll never know. I'm going to thoroughly reclean everything.    So all in all, happy the motor is fine, and I'll get it back much sooner than expected. I'll also be taking the time to convert my WMI system over to direct port. I'll snap some pictures of that when the parts come in. 
    • I understand, thanks. Yeah I wouldn't want the car to tip over, I'll try and use the sills, I don't want to risk smashing the chassis rails. I ordered some rubber pucks that have a hopefully big enough slotting. If the front right gives me trouble I can always just make a wood block. I'll measure and inspect the sills closer once I actually take the car up. I hope so, but the rubber blocks I had in hand so far were pretty damn firm, if they are that hard they won't give much way. I'll let you know what happens. Angle grinding rubber isn't one of my favorite tasks. I'll probably start a build thread soon, for my own documentation and "log" as well as sharing what's going on with the car.
    • Kinda something I have been thinking about.  To be honest, we bought it already driving like that.  So there's no telling how long it actually has been driving like this.  Hopefully damage is too bad when we drop the pan.   I am having a hard time finding a site that sells the solenoid for the 5 speed auto, do you have any suggestions?
    • That'll be most likely down the road...  LOL  
    • a stock / option or aftermarket?
×
×
  • Create New...