Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

rb30's done use main caps, they have a crank girdle. you can use stock main studs from Nissan without any problems or if you wanted to spend the money you can also buy ones from arp (I dont have the part number handy). I am not aware of anyone oversizing the mains.

I hope you aint building it yourself...

Sorry to point out, but so many of your posts seem condescending and intimidating. Chill brah!

:(

OP, what's the specs of your fuel system and turbo?

atm i have a 2 044's surge sys but isnt installed in car , as i am trying to sell my R32 as i am importing a r34 .

will be id2000's , 2 044's and 3L surge tank +fuel rail + fuel reg

and tossing up between to4z and t51r spl , not really sure yet ;)

T51r for sure! What about a KAI rather than a SPL? The SPL will be heaps laggier and the KAI would be much more efficient (i.e. less boost for the same power, cooler air charge -> more ignition advance = more power. KAI = more midrange, SPL = only top end.

T04zs are an old design and are pretty lazy, there's better options these days.

yer i haven't completely made up my mind, alot of people rag on to4z , But the fastst time attack car in NZ runs a stoker and to4z on gtr ;)

i want around the 500kw mark maybe a bit more on e85 but i dont wanna go jam a gt42 on to do it and turn it in to dyno queen (like few other cars atm pushing big numbers but are just useless)

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/catelog/Turbochargers/GT35/GTX3582R_803715_1.htm

T4 .82 housing is probably what you want on an RB30. Would make up to about 700hp before it ran out of flow. Then probably another 100hp ontop of that with E85 and advanced timing.

Correct me if I'm wrong, that's all just guess work!

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
' timestamp='1290901236' post='5569232']

rb30's done use main caps, they have a crank girdle. you can use stock main studs from Nissan without any problems or if you wanted to spend the money you can also buy ones from arp (I dont have the part number handy). I am not aware of anyone oversizing the mains.

Arent the ARP studs too long? I'm sure you will need to use washers so they don't bottom out?!?

I believe the issue with the ARP studs had to do with one stud needing a little trimming so it wouldnt interfere with the AWD sump in GTR conversion. But if youve chopped hell out of your sump and added extensions and modified baffles/windage/trapdoors etc (as most tend to do) then the stud problem probably dissapears too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely the merged entity will be called "Honda" given the relative company values. I've got to be honest, I don't understand how merging 2 companies that missed EVs (despite Nissan making the first mass produced one) will solve their problems
    • If you haven't bought the ECU yet, I would strongly consider buying a modern ECU. Yes it is very easy to setup and tune, however it is lacking many of the features of a modern ECU. The pro plug in is something like 10 or 12 years old now? Can't remember exactly but it is very dated now. In that time the Elite was released and now we have the Nexus platform.  I would strongly consider not buying the ECU that is 3 generations old now (especially as it isn't a cheap ECU!). 
    • Im happy for it as long as it means reanult gets the boot 
    • Sorry I should have been more clear with the previous post.  The block is a sanding block - picture something like this https://motorguard.com/product/motor-guard-bgr161-bgr16-1-rigid-psa-sanding-block-2-5-8-x-16/ The guide coat is the paint It's two separate things I was talking about, there is no "block guide coat". 
    • Maybe more accurately, you aren't just dulling the existing paint, you are giving the new paint something to 'grab on to'. By sanding the existing paint, you're creating a bunch of pores for the new paint to hook on to.  You can lay new paint over existing paint without sanding it, might last a year or two then sad times. The paint will peal/flake off in huge chunks. By sanding it, the new paint is able to hang onto it and won't flake off.  Depends on the primer you are using. When you buy your paint, as the paint supplier what grit of sand paper to use before you lay down the primer.  Use whatever you like as a guide coat. Pick a colour that really stands out in contrast to the paint. So say your sanding/painting a currently white car, using a black guide coat would work well. You very lightly lay the black guide coat down, then as you sand the car with the large block, all the high spots and low spots will stand out as the black paint is sanded off (or isn't sanded off).  When you buy your paint, hit up your supplier for recommendations for what paint to use for a guide coat if you're unsure what would work well with your setup. 
×
×
  • Create New...