Whats Easier, Remove Gearbox Or Not?

[wgoos]

me & a mate are pulling the rb25det out of his r33 & putting a standard rb25de in because the det is f***ed, we have everything unbolted, nothing is attached to the block so it is just sitting in the engine bay, we have a good engine crane but we cant figure out how to remove the tail shaft from the gearbox, is it worth just unbolting the gearbox from the block & bolting it straight onto the new engine block when we put it in?

if its easier to remove the gearbox & put it on the new engine before we install it? it would be great if someone could explain what we have to do to remove the tail shaft & what we have to unbold off the gearbox to do so..

cheers.

Edited November 28, 2010 by wgoos

[blk94r33]

Generally, you can just put a trolley jack under the gearbox to hold it up, and lift the engine out. Saves a few minutes in removing the tailshaft, wiring, clutch line, draining/refilling the oil etc. Can be a bit more fiddly to get back in though as you have to get the gearbox back on the motor, then on to the engine mounts. I'd personally recommend leaving the gearbox in place.

Also, don't non-turbo and turbo gearboxes have different ratios? Might drive a bit funny without the turbo engine?

[wgoos]

alright, ill leave it in place then, we were thinking that would be the best way to do it anyway, so your saying if we unbold the gearbox from the engine we will need something to hold it in place so it doesnt fall to the ground? i dont think we have a trolley jack is there anything else we can use?

im not sure mate, one would think a stronger gearbox wouldnt be a problem with a non turbo engine attached to it, guess only time will tell..

Edited November 28, 2010 by wgoos

[battery]

this is retarded your gonna have to change looms and ecu too..

anyway drop the box first then pull the engine out. you unbolt the tail shaft in the center and then slide it out of the box, drop the fluid first.

you will need a trolley jack for sure the box is heavy and you need to angle it to get to the top bolts...

[wgoos]

thanks for the info mate, will absolutely come in handy, we have to have the car done by the end of the week so we will have to find a trolley jack from someone.. yeah it turns out my mate picked up an RB25DE with loom, ECU & with 120,000km on it for $1,200, not bad hey, the guy just got an RB26DETT if im not mistaken & was in a rush to get rid of his old engine to make place for the new one.

Edited November 28, 2010 by wgoos

[turboedsloth]

leave the gearbox on, just disconnect the tailshaft from the diff pinion and centre bearing, remove the mount and crossmember aswell as the slave cylinder. Will take some effort to get out but its a shitload easier than wrestling a box on the ground, under the car, on your back

[britz1]

leave the gearbox on, just disconnect the tailshaft from the diff pinion and centre bearing, remove the mount and crossmember aswell as the slave cylinder. Will take some effort to get out but its a shitload easier than wrestling a box on the ground, under the car, on your back

+1 and when the gearbox falls on ur arm and the tailshaft plug comes out and ur laying on your garage floor cuddeling a gearbox in a pool of gear oil...or just me...

[Birds]

thanks for the info mate, will absolutely come in handy, we have to have the car done by the end of the week so we will have to find a trolley jack from someone.. yeah it turns out my mate picked up an RB25DE with loom, ECU & with 120,000km on it for $1,200, not bad hey, the guy just got an RB26DETT if im not mistaken & was in a rush to get rid of his old engine to make place for the new one.

This is a bit silly if you ask me. For $300 more you could have had an RB25DET with the same amount of km, alot less f***ing around with regard to the engine swap, and a car that is not slower / devalued by putting in a less powerful engine.

[blk94r33]

this is retarded your gonna have to change looms and ecu too..

anyway drop the box first then pull the engine out. you unbolt the tail shaft in the center and then slide it out of the box, drop the fluid first.

you will need a trolley jack for sure the box is heavy and you need to angle it to get to the top bolts...

leave the gearbox on, just disconnect the tailshaft from the diff pinion and centre bearing, remove the mount and crossmember aswell as the slave cylinder. Will take some effort to get out but its a shitload easier than wrestling a box on the ground, under the car, on your back

+1 and when the gearbox falls on ur arm and the tailshaft plug comes out and ur laying on your garage floor cuddeling a gearbox in a pool of gear oil...or just me...

Er. Right. Don't quite know what you are trying to do there.

You leave the engine and gearbox bolted in place, but go about the remainder of the process to remove the engine.

Last step, remove the bell housing bolts and support the gearbox with a trolley jack, the gearbox can't simply "fall out" as it is held in place by the rear crossmember, input shaft and dowles on the engine.

Now connect your engine crane and remove the engine by lifting it up off the mounts, and forward off the gearbox.

Sometimes it can be easier to do it this way, sometimes the bell housing bolts are in-accessible without lowering the back of the gearbox.

Re-Fitting is the reverse order, being careful to align the clutch and gearbox, getting the gearbox to meet flush with the engine before dropping it onto the mounts.

[stitch324door]

This is a bit silly if you ask me. For $300 more you could have had an RB25DET with the same amount of km, alot less f***ing around with regard to the engine swap, and a car that is not slower / devalued by putting in a less powerful engine.

I'm the bloke doing this swap. Actually its exactly the same amount of stuffing around. i am a p-plater so therefore de is the way and i dont give a shit about the car being devalued. i hope its looking less silly now

[Birds]

No, you cannot tell me that swapping another of the same engine in is the same amount of stuffing around as swapping in a different engine. That is just plain illogical.

It's not looking less silly, in fact it is looking worse now that I know you are a P plater. The vin/chassis will be still registered as a GTS-T, which can't be changed without an engineers, so it is still illegal for you to be driving the vehicle if your state has laws against P platers driving turbocharged vehicles.

Put an RB25DET back into it, sell the car, buy a non turbo and you'll probably walk away with some money from it. Or do the reverse...

[BoyWhoCriedWolf]

If you wanted engine out you should have bought a 300zx.

------------->plz 2 wasteland Ash.

[bozodos]

+1 for getting a 300zx, they are a much more attractive proposition if you intend on taking the engine out

[Stinky Rooster]

you would have been much better off swapping in a SR20. They are lighter and move the weight further back so you would get handling improvements as well as more power than an RB25DE.

So, for the ultimate win, I think you need to sell the R33, buy a 300zx (engine out, natch) and then slot an SR20 inthere. If you source the SR from a pulsar you can go straight to FWD and ergo, ignore the gearbox when you pull the engine as it will no longer be doing anything

hope this helps

[stitch324door]

Ok so explain hiw its more stuffing round. Ecu plugs straight in loom plugs straight in. Engine bolts into the same place. All the sensors go straight in (except for boost /vaccum sensors) so its exactly the same as swapping a rb25det in terms of stuffing round. Also this forum shits me. You mention your a p-plater everyone just cooks ya. Anyway im one step ahead of you negative dicks. It originally had a rb25de in it therefore thats what the plate says rb25de making it completely and utterly legal (trust me ive checked). Also if i wanted to sell it i would be posting in the classified section dont you think? I love this car i have a connection i dont see it as an object it has character otherwise i wouldnt be going to all this trouble

[brendo.r32]

Ok so explain hiw its more stuffing round. Ecu plugs straight in loom plugs straight in. Engine bolts into the same place. All the sensors go straight in (except for boost /vaccum sensors) so its exactly the same as swapping a rb25det in terms of stuffing round. Also this forum shits me. You mention your a p-plater everyone just cooks ya. Anyway im one step ahead of you negative dicks. It originally had a rb25de in it therefore thats what the plate says rb25de making it completely and utterly legal (trust me ive checked). Also if i wanted to sell it i would be posting in the classified section dont you think? I love this car i have a connection i dont see it as an object it has character otherwise i wouldnt be going to all this trouble

Not trying to flame, but your original post states that your changing from det to de, but this post you state it originally had a de?

How many times has the motor been changed?

And if your a P - plater why buy a turbo car in the first place?

Anyways, good luck with your project and IMO you should leave the box attached to the motor, pull out shifter with circlip removers or long nose pliers, remove tail shaft (4 bolts diff, 4 bolts at box and two I think for centre bearing), slide tailshaft out from diff side first then out of box, support the box with trolley jack, remove box mount then think about the rest.

Theres a really good guide on here for r32 rb25det conversion, not exactly the same thing but should be helpful none the less, I think its by predator.

[stitch324door]

Not trying to flame, but your original post states that your changing from det to de, but this post you state it originally had a de?

How many times has the motor been changed?

And if your a P - plater why buy a turbo car in the first place?

Anyways, good luck with your project and IMO you should leave the box attached to the motor, pull out shifter with circlip removers or long nose pliers, remove tail shaft (4 bolts diff, 4 bolts at box and two I think for centre bearing), slide tailshaft out from diff side first then

out of box, support the box with trolley jack, remove box mount then think about the rest.

Theres a really good guide on here for r32 rb25det conversion, not exactly the same thing but should be helpful none the less, I think its by predator.

Yeah i its had one swap this will be the second. I bought it because i got it very very cheap and its got a whole lot of gear on it like coilovers mad interior, gtr radiator gtr cluster kaaz to way diff, awesome soundsystem.

You wernt adding flame you were just expressing your opinion in a positive way. And you didnt jump to conclusions. Thanks for your advice il have a look for sure!

[wgoos]

<!--quoteo(post=5570012:date=28 Nov 2010, 10:53 PM:name=wgoos)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (wgoos @ 28 Nov 2010, 10:53 PM) <a href="index.php?act=findpost&pid=5570012"><{POST_SNAPBACK}></a></div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->thanks for the info mate, will absolutely come in handy, we have to have the car done by the end of the week so we will have to find a trolley jack from someone.. yeah it turns out my mate picked up an RB25DE with loom, ECU & with 120,000km on it for $1,200, not bad hey, the guy just got an RB26DETT if im not mistaken & was in a rush to get rid of his old engine to make place for the new one.<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->

This is a bit silly if you ask me. For $300 more you could have had an RB25DET with the same amount of km, alot less f***ing around with regard to the engine swap, and a car that is not slower / devalued by putting in a less powerful engine.

the car was originally a de, its had a det put in & now that engines screwed, mate is on his p's so it makes sense to get a de..