Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I'm new to posting on these forums, although I've been reading the posts on here for quite some time. right now I'm in Cooma, (1 hour outside the ACT) I own an aging rolla seca AE92 which has been good for a first car, but I'm moving to Canberra in a year for university,

and I was wondering (I'm 17) what limitations P-platers have in the ACT?

Because here in NSW turbocharged/supercharged cars and V8's are outlawed till full license, and I looked up the ACT laws but I couldn't find a single web page on it. And I've got quite a bit saved up and saving a lot more for next year, with my eye on a GTST R33 if the laws will allow. (fingers crossed, because I REALLLLLLY want that GTST. So badly.)

thanks guys,

Brad

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345843-p-plate-ruling-on-turbos-in-act/
Share on other sites

Pretty much, the only things that are different while on P's in ACT are blood alcohol content (0.02), having to display them on your car (unless you do the P-off course after 6 months, which is a must to avoid being targeted), and the amount of points you have on your license (4, or 8 after you've done the P-off course). Otherwise, you're free to drive whatever you wish - could even be a quad-charged LS2 in a farken bus for all the laws care :)

Yeah I'm with Zebra there.

Although there'd be no restrictions, do your research on whether you think you can really afford to run and pay for maintenance on a car like this as a uni student. A lot of people get a bit of a rude shock there.

Ahhh, okay, thanks for the replies guys!! And, GTRKat I'm sorry I'm pretty new to the whole scene, so forgive my ignorance; could anyone give me a rough idea on running costs and what they consist of? I know thats a really general question, sorry, but yeah if someone could push me off in the right direction?

Heavy on fuel compared to the rolla

Insurance is very expensive

Parts are expensive

Most are over 15 years old, which means things are wearing out/may need to be replaced.

The police love to chat with you on the side of the road more so with P plates.

Yeah running costs for my GTS-T while it was "stock" came up as $90 for oil and filter every 5000km; ~$70-80/tank of fuel, which would get you roughly 450km of city driving; ~$500/year for third party + fire and theft insurance (comprehensive isn't even an option for someone your age with that car imo); then other shit that breaks/wears out as TiTAN said.

The first year of owning the GTR I spent somewhere around $5000 just in maintenance. That's not even including insurance, fuel, rego. And I consider myself VERY lucky with the car that I have. These were things that had quite simply just worn out like suspension, clutch and replacing fluids etc.

At that time it was of similar age to the 33's that you'll be looking at.

After that then it's not really worth comparing cause things got a bit out of hand.... :)

Pinky's running costs aren't too bad. (like Trozzle said) I get 400-450km per thank of fuel, oil & filter every 5000km, then Plugs occasionally. Did my 100,000km service which I got a kit for online and wasn't too expensive, replaced the stock radiator and replaced my front lower control arms because some retard that owned my car beforehand had the wrong bushes or something put in so there was too much pressure on them and they had cracked. (I don't know details Zane knows more about that bit then me I just went urrrrggghhh at having to replace something)

Other than that her issues are just cosmetic. I was on trainee wages when I got her and could afford to run her, wasn't too bad and thats all that's gone wrong in 4 years. Oh and one new battery.

I have full comp but I am a girl, and I am 22... I had full comp when I was 18 and got her it was about $2500-$3000 pa.

My Pulsar. being a sports model, when first got it I was paying $2200 p/a. I had to search quite a few insurance companies before got insured. Ended up with NRMA, car under dad's name and me as a driver to get the best deal.

At 25 now driving my r33 gts-s insurance for me was around $1500 p/a insured for 16.5k through shannons.

If have a good driving record, no fines or infringements previously, and put the car as you as a driver, car under parents name, you can usually do a lot better, and get their no claim bonus etc.

I've got my fingers crossed for minimal probs and issues.. That all the cosmetic bits (apart from scratches on rims) are done and sorted. That all I really have to keep forking over for is standard work and maintenance nothing stupid...

Mine has 86000km's on the clock, but the service normally done at 100,000km's was done by the previous owner at 81000km's - as in all the belts, the spark plugs, upgraded clutch (and while at it lightened flywheel), all fluids etc. $80 for all the stuff each 3-6months for 5000km services aint too bad, but is lot more than with a regular car you can use cheaper regular oil etc..

And yeah fuel of around 400-450kms around town is more than usual (and always premium 98 fuel). So I go through around $65-80 bucks a week on fuel.

But always be sure to have cash aside in case need to fork over for any larger repairs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’d love to find some where that can recover the dashes to look brand new and original. Mine has a very slight bubble, nothing compared to some I’ve seen though 
    • $170K. I asked one of the guys there as a joke if that price was just for the passenger seat as it was where the price sheet was... he tried really hard to crack a smile 😄 He also mentioned that every single part of the car was inspected and either restored or replaced with a new or as new part, or made from scratch. The interior was incredible, every inch like a new car.
    • Time for a modernisation, throw out the AFM, stock O2s, ECU into the e-waste bin. Rip out the cable throttle, IACV, pedal, etc. into the scrap metal bin. DBW, e-throttle, modern ECU, CANbus wideband, and the thing will drive better than when it left the factory.
    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
×
×
  • Create New...