Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I suggest to ALL who love their cars, to be there when it's worked on/ran on dyno.

If you don't really know the technician, this is top-of-the-shelf-advice!

Communication is PARAMOUNT. My tuner had an issue, and instead of spending 20 mins chasing it down, he asked me a simply question (which I could answer) and he had the problem fixed in 30 seconds.

Communication Plus!

Communicate, ask questions.

Don't hesitate to ask questions. If not for yourself - But for your car's sake ask questions!

Sorry for the loss, but use this as a platform to learn.

:thumbsup:

  • Replies 65
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

From a Christian perspective, one can do one of two things - hmmm, maybe more than two if I were lucid enough.

1) to move on as you've done and just pray for them, knowing that your experience serves some salient lessons.

or...

2) to offer the boss and the P-plater a bible each, ask them if they can sleep straight in bed; hmmm, maybe even come to church with you...

:upon rejecting such an offer, you (and friends), picket the place until they get the rude awakening that your pickets are bad for their business > they'll want to make peace with you > compensate you.

Subjectively, I carry a baseball bat.

Objectively, God carries the baseball bat.

hahaha im catholic so maybe that would work! or i should just bring him a video of the snow channel. then call them n whisper 7 days

Subjectively, I carry a baseball bat.

Objectively, God carries the baseball bat.

f**k god... he's just an asshole that doesn't have the balls to use his baseball bat unless it's on helpless starving black children.

When I got my car tuned the first time, it broke a RIGHT HAND drive shaft during their test drive. Without charge they jacked it up back at the shop and spend a deal of time trying to find the cause of the issue. (Engine mounts)

However, what broke the mounts? Since (when it came back) then the car dragged to one side and the wheel was out of alignment. As soon as I left I noticed it and turned around and went back to complain. The LEFT HAND tierod is stuffed.

So, I tried to picture what happened: He possibly floored out of a U-Turn and hit the gutter with my front left wheel, stuffing the tie rod, breaking an already possibly weak engine mount, and breaking the shaft. Because the broken shaft and tierods are on opposite sides, and it was only on the dyno for 4 hours, the whole time under my supervision. (IE: They didn't have it for days, I came and left with the car on the same day.) There is no point trying to make a claim though, but do tierods go from tight, to loose (and needing replacement) after a 10km drive without colliding with something? While at the same time breaking a mount and drive shaft?

Sorry but claiming this kind of thing won't happen. I suggest to ALL who love their cars, to be there when it's worked on/ran on dyno. If you're possibly going to lose an engine worth $30k+ in one day, it's worth that day off work to communicate and deal with the tuner.

Now although most tuners would already check themselves, but did your friend/you mention that it's running stock injectors etc? Communication is PARAMOUNT. My tuner had an issue, and instead of spending 20 mins chasing it down, he asked me a simply question (which I could answer) and he had the problem fixed in 30 seconds.

Communicate, ask questions. Get lots of printouts from the dyno, with HP/KW/Torque/RPM/AFR/Timing/etc etc etc. Really, a good tuner would give you these things to protect his ass. "Yes the AFR's were safe when it left, and you can see the dyno settings we used, etc"

Sorry for the loss, but use this as a platform to learn.

mate of mine was driving along in his 33 and had a tie rod come out of the tie rod end. we put it back in and it came out a short while later. he had never hit a gutter since he had had the car (a few years). the rod had just come a little bit loose and then once it had undone a bit and was about half out it just stripped the thread when he hit a bump in the road.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Had a go at the stuck crush tube this afternoon. Tried things like grips and a chain wrench first but wouldn't just twist straight off. So got to work with a drill. Started small and kept a depth stop on to make sure I didn't drill into the bolt. Made a line of drill holes all the way up and enlarged them. Then a combination of chisel and Dremel to split it all the way up. Levered the split to get oil in there and eventually it gave a bit while levering. Worked it back and forth with loads more oil till it was spinning freely, then with grips I could work it downwards and off. And no significant damage to the bolt (not by me anyway - just the 27 years of rust)
    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
×
×
  • Create New...