Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i bought a new set of splitfires today for my c34 stagea, but i ran into a heap of problems, i blew out my first set of brand spanking new pulse stars. so i swapped them for the regular platinum NGK's i had left over, and guess what, after 30 mins of driving, missfiring and bam 4 of my 6 NGK's ceramics cracked open.......... now i have no plugs left over.

they just keep cracking them open like eggs, anyone have any idea?????

is there proper spark plugs with the right heat setting or cooled head for coil pack cars???

i know bosh has a range of heat set plugs, but does NGK???

i just wasted 200 bucks on plugs today..... its not fun :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346070-anyone-have-trouble-with-splitfires/
Share on other sites

i haven't had any issues with splitfire coilpacks and i've run them in 2 of my cars including a set in my stagea at the moment. i know of someone getting a couple of dud coilpacks in a set but they just wouldn't fire.

it may help if you post up the Splitfire part number for the coils (eg. DIS-008, DIS-005), the plug part number, is your car a Series 1 or 2.

Edited by QWK32

possibly a manufacturing fault of the coils, can your send the coils back and get a replacement? are your originals any good, can you put them back in? there's nothing you can really stuff up installing coils, they just bolt and plug in. i wouldn't waste anymore sparkplugs on them.

Edited by QWK32
such a killer, paid 600 for them!!! now gotta go back and get em exchanged. urgh, so what do i do with the plugs????

yeah i know, splitfires are fairly pricey, i just shelled out for a set myself chasing a missfire issue. well it is just a suggestion that the coils are faulty, if your confident you installed them correctly its the only thing that makes sense to me.

if you put the original ones in, provided they are still in a running condition, with a new set of plugs and it runs fine then you've pretty much proved the new coils are faulty. get a set of NGK BCPR6ES they are about $3-$4 a plug. heat range of 6 is good for a mild modded setup.

Wow cracking plugs... this I have never heard of. All that I thought of was are/were they gapped too low??? I'm running 6 series NGK's (BCPR6E) in my series 2 gapped at 0.8mm (were missing at ~5,500rpm @ 18psi w/1mm gap... wtf) and no issues. Sounds like you've got the super-powerful version splitfires?

ive seen plugs crack before under too much heat, pretty crazy if they crack very bad, all you see is sparks flying out the sides.

i think the splitfires i have are the 2nd or 3rd most powerful ones, i think that DIS-010 are the most powerful ones. (from what ive read)

the splits are genuine, bought them from just jap, doubt they would risk selling fakes.

i will go back today, and see what they say. ill aslo buy the set of cheap plugs for the time being, where is best place for them?? just jup had them for 30 bucks but sold out, repco and supercheap??

thanks for all the feedback

Dude...try go to supercheep...and get the next heat rating cooler ei. 8's just get a cheep set. could just be a matter that u need to drop the temp range cause u havesuch a good spark now :P

EDIT: 8 may be a bit too cold....Maybe 7's. Though saying that...the worst that could happen with the 8's is you foul the plugs (If they don't crack at least you know what the prob is and can then try 7's)

Edited by mattye

i was using heat range 7 ngk and also rang 7 pulstars.

both cracked, i havent modified my turbo or anything, just did the boost switch instead of running low to high boost, its constantly running high boost. *bridged the vaccum hoses*.

since im running the cracked plugs till i get a chance to get a new set, they missfire a heap during high boost and if im doing about 2/5th throttle. once i go to half throttle they are fine, but if i go above half throttle till boost kicks in, i get missfiring again.

plus im gettin a heap of backfiring too. alot of popping, hope i wont have to replace my catalytic.

here are some pictures from the sparkies i blew through,

there are pulstars.

I also found out that one was not ngk, (took ngk out and replaced them)

they were autolite double platinum. (there is my reason for them blowing up)

but still wondering about the pulstar plugs, they had a heat range of 7, so should have been fine.

while the autolite had heat range of 6.

here are the pics:

post-74293-1291258347_thumb.jpg

post-74293-1291258379_thumb.jpg

i was using pulstar be1i and autorlite app3923 double platinum plugs, one really really good, and one really shit n cheap

ran autolites at 1.1mm and no luck at all, set to 0.8 and mostly worked, so i got to .6mm and they worked, the pulstar plugs have to be set to 0.6mm or 0.0025"

which worked wonders! untill one cracked.

Edited by Bronx

If brand new Splitfires won't jump the factory 1.1mm gap then there is something wrong with them or the installation. Not familiar with the other plugs you mention - most RBs would be running NGK.

yeah, that chart helps a bit, but even with ngk's ive had problems with 1.1mm gaps. i always run .8mm gaps or .6mm gaps where its specified, always worked great, hard to install anything wrong on any of the products i think :(

its pretty simple, screw out, screw in put pack on, screw pack on and final step, plug it in hehe.

but like said, i highly doubt its the coils in any way, i just think the sparks werent the right heat setting to begin with. both worked perfectly at first, but after a while of running really hot they would missfire.

bought some basic NGK's now, 5 bucks a pop, and they seem to do the job. 0.8mm gapped too. but a decent power loss i must say.

bought some basic NGK's now, 5 bucks a pop, and they seem to do the job. 0.8mm gapped too. but a decent power loss i must say.

Power loss? compared to what? Try gapping them at the factory 1.1mm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok gotcha, so one post to fpr  another to bov  and I have the mishimoto boost controller and a link g4+ so I’d just have the tuner set it up properly. For the last two from plenum post throttle to  ecu/ boost controller, I know that I have a hose coming from the ecu that I was confused about so I assume that’s what connect to the boost controller from the ecu? And then the last is just from plenum to boost controller then to wastegate?
    • From there, it was just a quick electrical check, prime the oil and start her up Which, is not what happened. 1. Bloody seppo Aeropro battery holder. Not only was it too tall for the battery (which I'll forgive them for, I have another battery the same nominal size that is taller than Neil's one, but the bracket is a fixed height so the battery was spaced up) But the thing that really shits me is the hardware to hold it on requires a 7/32 Hex key. WTF. No-one will ever be able to remove or install the damn thing without a hex key they don't own 2. Kill switch no longer worked once the console was installed. Neil mentioned above he had to adjust the length but it no longer cleared the console once installed. Sorted. 3. Suspiciously, the brake light holders were hanging in the boot with no globes. Sure enough the stopper on the brake pedal was missing so they are always on unless the kill switch is activated. Will pick one up tomorrow (turns out 32 and 33 don't use the same stopper) 4. All that sorted, I turned on the kill switch, turned the key to ACC. Nothing. Turned it to IGN. Nothing. Checked some fuses and found the main IGN in the boot was missing which improved things once it was replaced. Now ECU and dash lights turn on with IGN but still no fuel pump. 5. Turned it to Start....ECU on, no fuel pump, no starter. Plus the voltage dropped straight to 9v.  I suspect the starter is f**ked but am going to have to work through it all and see what is happening, really looks like more than one issue. Does anyone have the R33 fuse box key with the circuit it sources from (eg BAT, ACC, IGN, SRT etc) and supplies? I can find a translated list showing Amps and circuit without supply circuit, and I can find supply circuit without Amps and target circuit.
    • 3rd time lucky, the AAC is now all plumbed up after getting some final fittings All set up under the plenum of maximum access
    • OK, so the weight has been bugging because it was really low. I did it again today and got a more believable answer at 1246 without driver And with a 93kg driver I'm pretty sure the car was still slightly on the quickjack last time meaning the full weight was not on the scales  
×
×
  • Create New...