Jump to content
SAU Community

Knocking - Post Coilover Installation

Spark911
 Share

Recommended Posts

Spark911 Community Regular

Spark911

Posted
Posted

hey guys,

Just installed a set of HKS Hipermax II's on my 34 GTT - the 'line now sticks like shit :D

Problems following the install:

Varying knocks and squeaks throughout the car. The front left coilover SOUNDS like the tyre is scraping on the guard or a panel is loose and it is flexing everytime the shocks compress. Is this common/likely?

Also, the rear right coilover sounds like it is knocking on something - is it common for the strut top nuts/pivot bolts at the bottom to come loose after a 100km or so of driving? or should i not worry as this is all part of the sacrifice of having firm suspension?

Any experienced SA guys willing to lend a hand at some stage this week/weekend? just for a bit of troubleshooting and to hear the problem. we will consume a few beers supplied by me while this is going on.

Just can't justify sending it to a tyre place so they can charge me $X for what might be a loose nut.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346099-knocking-post-coilover-installation/
Share on other sites
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

well, most likely the issue in the right rear is that the top nut on the suspension was not done up tight....you need to crank them down a fair way. however, unless there was an installation mistake, the front shock can't be related to the new suspension - in a double wishbone setup the shock/spring does not help locate the wheel, it only controls it's movement. But perhaps something is loose/wrong/not done up properly there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      NC MX5

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      It's kind of interesting - They definitely do builds that split the difference between what they like and what will generate views and engagement. The NC Platform always surprises everyone in a good way, in an uncomfortably good way some may say. They could throw a LS in there and arguably have the best (and best performing) car of the entire stable. But that isn't necessarily what draws views, because people viewing don't want to accept the vegetables of a LS NC MX5 being a superior vehicle in every way (including fun) than a RB26 240Z. This is also why there's not a lot of content about the GR Yaris (on the web in general). They're too good, yet 'only a Yaris' The community doesn't want certain cars to be as good as they are - to beat their hero cars, and I believe the NC MX5 is absolutely one of those cars.
    • Kinkstaah
      R34 GTT Central Locking Pains

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yeah - My key still does the chime thing. I followed the procedure but it didn't activate on the (identical) third set of keyfob that I had. I vaguely remember the alarm saying you can only pair two keys with it. Now that I've dug it up, it appears that you very much can pair keyfobs to the alarm system. (which are the fobs I use to unlock the car). I have successfully diverted the thread and can probably not use the OEM keyfob ever again unless I use the aftermarket alarm and attempt to pair the OEM keyfob to it. Which might just work, or not :D. I definitely used the nissan method and not the aftermarket alarm method.
    • soviet_merlin
      R34 GTT Central Locking Pains

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      What makes it worse is that Nissan made keys in the same style, for example R34 and Stagea, but they work at different frequencies or something like that. So they look the same but the remotes are not interchangeable. I learned that from some guy selling aftermarket blank keys.
    • soviet_merlin
      R34 GTT Central Locking Pains

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Does your door chime work when you have the key in the lock and open the door? I've had that disabled because it's f**king annoying and it is one thing that messes with the pairing. Because now the car doesn't detect key in ignition anymore and the slide-key-in-and-out sequence does not trigger the pairing mode anymore. The service manual has a section on the various bits involved in doing the syncing. I presume it'll be similar between Stagea and R34.
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Agree, but meh, I think is is based more on LOLS than actually apples to apples, like, who would have thunk a turbo 4 cylinder would not beat a NA 4 cylinder  I think with just basic N/A mods, like a exhaust and tune, it would be equal to the Mini in its current form, maybe I know my current 2.5 would "chop the mini" as the midrange now has a night and day difference in power delivery compared to the tuned 2.0, by around 20kwatw and 30nm from around 2k rpm "ish"....... I'm kinda hoping that they do a N/A build, either with the MZR 2.0 or with whatever they decide to use If I recall correctly they did talk about K swapping one a while ago
×
×
  • Create New...