Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi!!

I've heard of others having the same situation like mine.

My GT-R32 has been having this flickering Hicas light for quite sometime already. What happens is that it will light up (sometimes w/ matching knocking sound at the Hicas pump area) at high revs and during high electrical load. Checked all the connections, alternator, battery, you name it... all are A ok. Still can't locate the culprit. But I sort of suspect my HKS T.Timer has to do something about it. So last night I disconnect my HKS T.T, and test drive it today and... voila! No more Hicas flickering!

Now for you guys who has this similar problem, how do you deal w/ it? Is it the e-brake or earth connection? I know the BNR32's Hicas system is super sensitive on voltage... What could it be. frown.gif Hope you can help me guys. Thanks in advance!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346105-hks-turbo-timer-hicas-problem/
Share on other sites

Wow, I have the exact same problem, and a HKS turbo timer! But my HICAS light flicker/pump noise/solenoid noise occurs randomly during idle/driving as well. It's annoying when you turn, the steering wheel "kicks" when this happens.

I'll disconnect the bastard tonight.

Wow, I have the exact same problem, and a HKS turbo timer! But my HICAS light flicker/pump noise/solenoid noise occurs randomly during idle/driving as well. It's annoying when you turn, the steering wheel "kicks" when this happens.

I'll disconnect the bastard tonight.

Just as I thought... another one. :thumbsup: Tell me if it solves the problem. My HKS t.t has a harness by the way, that is what I unplugged. I just wish someone can tell us a solution on this besides having to drop the whole Hicas off. I also noticed that this situation happens a lot on GT-R32s and not on any other Nissan that also has Hicas during it's time.

  • 6 months later...

Apologies for the huge delay, I wasn't in the country after my previous post.

I disconnected the HKS turbo time on Sunday(has the wiring harness so just unplugged that), went for a quick drive and the issue didn't appear. Was heaps happy until the next day when I was driving back from work the HICAS "kick" showed it's ugly head again.

Now it doesn't matter whether I connect or disconnect the turbo timer, the HICAS light/kick in steering/noise from boot occurs randomly. I'm thinking perhaps it's the HICAS computer or some sort of electrical problem :( (I haven't done the HICAS diagnosis yet, will do on the weekend).

Also when I start the car I can hear about 4-5 clicks coming from the boot (HICAS pump?).

  • 3 months later...

Got an update on this issue, which popped up yesterday.

Volts got real low (dipped below 12 while engine was running), HICAS system goes spastic (flashing light, can very clearly hear the pump going off every second, steering obviously kicking in sync with the pump). The voltage would go as low as 6.5V while driving (lost radio, and eventually HICAS).

Went and bought a new battery, all sweet for a few minutes until the volts dropped below 12.5V.

Strange thing is, sometimes the volts would go up to the usual 13.5V mark and everything will run sweet.

So, the HICAS system is very sensitive to the voltage (as documented here on SAU), the strange thing is trying to locate source of the voltage drop.

I hope the alternator isn't dying. I've cleaned the plugs at the terminal with contact cleaner it fixed the issue for about a minute. One of the fusible links is a little dodgy, I might try to replace the terminal.

I'll also have a look at the alternator tomorrow and hopefully find some sort of resolution.

*edit*

Unplugging the HKS turbo timer doesn't make a difference. I'll suss out the wiring anyway in case it's not grounded properly.

Check if the alternator belt is slipping, with that voltage drop I'd be looking at the chassis ground and cleaning them up by sanding the paint/rust back, and even go as far as making a seperate (clean) ground for the alternator.

If all that doesn't solve it, new alternator

Well on the way back from work yesterday, alternator stopped charging completely. Managed to get the car off a busy road, and parked it in a side street (flat battery). Today, grabbed a second hand alternator, threw it in the car and away I went.

So far so good, no more flashing HICAS light as of yet. I still hear a solenoid clicking away in the passenger side of the boot. I'll suss it out tomorrow. I'll clean the grounds as well.

  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry for not updating earlier.

In relation to this topic, replacement alternator fixed the HICAS issue (haven't had any steering kicks or the pump going spastic as of yet after a couple of weeks of driving).

As for the rear end issue, it looks like it's related to wheel alignment (toe out I'm guessing, I dropped backe the rear camber arms a bit and it has settled the rear end a bit).

tl;dr - HICAS is voltage sensitive.

  • 7 months later...

I'm bumping this thread because it's relevant.

Since my last post, the 'HICAS' problem came back and I pretty much learned to live with it for almost a year. Yesterday I bought a fat earth cable and replaced the negative terminal. The HICAS problem hasn't occurred since I did the replacement. The radio antenna works now as well (I used to get terrible reception). The clock even works now! :D

If you own an R32, get at least a fat cable going from negative terminal to body. I bought one for $20 from Pep's store with a terminal attached to it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 馃
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
  • Create New...