Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I recently had the timing elt on my R33 GTS-T done and a week after the serice my car won't start. The best description I can give is that it turns over but still won't start. When the key is in the ignition the check engine light is on now as well.

Any help anyone can give me would be greatly appreciated

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346632-car-wont-start/
Share on other sites

No I don't. If the battery is flat won't all the electrics stop working, ie lights and stereo?

Not necessarily.

Some lights etc. may dim, but it's not until the battery is completely dead that the car accessories won't power on.

Try turning off everything (radio, fans, aircon) and try turn it on.

Try do a push start (put car in second gear, hold down clutch, take off handbrake and get your mate to roll the car for you. Dump the clutch and it should crank on. Make sure your key is in the "on" position.

Were your headlights dimming when you were turning on your car?

Was anything dimming when you turned on your car?

Did you car go er-er-er-er-er-er-er vroom when starting up?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346632-car-wont-start/#findComment-5580287
Share on other sites

Not necessarily.

Some lights etc. may dim, but it's not until the battery is completely dead that the car accessories won't power on.

Try turning off everything (radio, fans, aircon) and try turn it on.

Try do a push start (put car in second gear, hold down clutch, take off handbrake and get your mate to roll the car for you. Dump the clutch and it should crank on. Make sure your key is in the "on" position.

Were your headlights dimming when you were turning on your car?

Was anything dimming when you turned on your car?

Did you car go er-er-er-er-er-er-er vroom when starting up?

As far as I remember the lights were fine, Went to the supermarket, came back to the car, it started then the revs kept going down untill it turned itself off. Now the engine cranks over but yea just seems its not getting the final kick to start it up.

Someone has suggested the mechanic may have cracked the crank shaft sensor? Is this a viable option?

Thanks for your suggestions people

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346632-car-wont-start/#findComment-5580338
Share on other sites

take your battery out.. Go to a battery shop and they will test it for you.. It is the simplest and cheapest option as they would do this for free.. if your battery is fine.. report back here if this was your solution or if it's fine and go from there..

Edited by .:: GimpS-R34 ::.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346632-car-wont-start/#findComment-5580343
Share on other sites

Went to the supermarket, came back to the car, it started then the revs kept going down untill it turned itself off.

The trouble is, that you went to the supermarket instead of Supercheap Auto. :whistling:

Your car knew this. But you didn't.

Your car's pacemaker carked it > and now you have to resuscitate it with +ve to +ve/-ve to -ve

Intensive care is now required with a new battery.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346632-car-wont-start/#findComment-5580479
Share on other sites

how fast is it turning over? if it is turning over pretty much as fast as normal (or even just a touch slower) then your battery is fine and you have an electrical issue somewhere, such as the CAS.

Its turning at the usual rate which is why I'm thinking something electrical. I will try the CAS tonight

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346632-car-wont-start/#findComment-5580626
Share on other sites

ok well if it's turning over as fast as normal then ignore all the posts above about being a dead battery (i dare say the missed the bit in your first post where you said the car is turning over and just not firing).

sounds like the CAS simply isn't registering that the engine is turning over, so not firing the ignition or the injectors. i think from memory you can test this theory by turning the key to the on position and removing the CAS from the motor (leaving it plugged in)and then spinning it by hand. you should hear the injectors click as they fire. not sure if you have to disconnect the ignition loom before doing this to stop the spark plugs firing. i can't remember.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346632-car-wont-start/#findComment-5580794
Share on other sites

ok well if it's turning over as fast as normal then ignore all the posts above about being a dead battery (i dare say the missed the bit in your first post where you said the car is turning over and just not firing).

sounds like the CAS simply isn't registering that the engine is turning over, so not firing the ignition or the injectors. i think from memory you can test this theory by turning the key to the on position and removing the CAS from the motor (leaving it plugged in)and then spinning it by hand. you should hear the injectors click as they fire. not sure if you have to disconnect the ignition loom before doing this to stop the spark plugs firing. i can't remember.

Thanks mate this has been really helpfull

Just need to finish work then go home and try

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346632-car-wont-start/#findComment-5580854
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for there help and let u kno where I'm at

Got a new CAS but that didn't fix it so I got a mate around who actually knows something about cars (coz I don't) and we checked the fuel line and it seems theres no fuel being pumped through

so we changed the filter an checked the relay but still no good so I'm looking at getting the fuel pump changed

had a crack at it but it looks like a complete pain in the arse so I'm going to try and tow it to a mechanic and get them to change it :P

Thank again for eveones input

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346632-car-wont-start/#findComment-5592078
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @joshuaho96 Hmm considering the drama you've seen/experienced, have you looked into getting a built complete long motor shipped from Australia?  Considering the AUD is basically monopoly money when compared to the USD, at a glance this seems like a good option?
    • Bloody Skylines, they put you through the bloody wringer! Stick at it! Stunning drag strip BTW! Where is it? Can see part of the name on the slip and probably should just Google it!
    • I mean the other day I had to walk someone through diagnosing why their timing belt was walking off the cam gears. At least one of the issues was a bent tensioner stud. Local mechanics have found runout on the CAS mechanism causing weird failures. I'm also no saint here I've documented some of the things I've had to learn the hard way. Something I discovered recently is that my CA emissions catalytic converters weren't even welded correctly to align the downpipe to the main cat and they tossed the support bracket that goes from the transfer case to the downpipe to support everything there. I spend a lot of time chasing down these decidedly unsexy problems and the net effect is it feels like I never actually get to the original objective (flex fuel, VCAM, oil control, cooling, etc).
    • At times with how you make everything sound, all I imagine Americans doing when they see a gtr is standing there looking at it and bashing it with a gun like how a caveman would with a club and hoping it fixes itself 
    • I think this is just a product of how the US market works for this stuff. Shops are expensive and there's no real way of knowing what kind of results you're going to get, people don't really have the institutional knowledge. I have heard too much at this point to really put faith in anybody "full service" except maybe DSport and they aren't really a full service kind of shop. If you go to the right place I have no doubt they'll get it right for you. Some locals have set it up right but the cost really is nuts and even now they're still fighting issues. And you know I'm a crazy person who thinks things like twin scroll, relatively short low-mount cast headers, PCV recirc to intake, recirculating BOV, right-sized for ~400 whp, MAF load, validating all of that to a standard comparable to OEM test programs, etc are relevant. For what it's worth, multiple local owners at this point have been stuck in a perpetual cycle of blowing a motor -> getting someone to rebuild it -> some missed detail causes the bearings to wipe and spin just outside of break-in mileage or drop valves or some other catastrophe -> cycle repeats. I usually only find out about this because I'm perpetually helping random friends with diagnosing car troubles, Skyline or otherwise. The single turbo stuff if I'm honest is mostly secondary, it just doesn't seem to achieve the numbers in the ~2000-3000 rpm region that I would expect given the results I've seen here or in Motive's videos. I don't really know what we're missing here in the US to be causing this. Lots of people like to emphasize the necessity of finishing the project first and foremost, but I'm not made of money and I can't afford to be trashing a 15k+ USD engine build with any regularity. Or spending my relatively limited garage time these days unable to triangulate problems because too much was changed all at once. Also, even if it isn't a catastrophic failure I would consider spending the cost of single turbo conversion with nothing to show for it to be pretty bad. 
×
×
  • Create New...