Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Forgive my nooby questions.

I have a road registered R33 GTS-T with a 25/30 (built), It shall be going in for the final tune soon, as it is now its got around 220 @ 7 psi (EBC is turned off but has another 2 settings, (low and high).

I use R compound semi slick tyres.

I suppose what Im asking is how much power should I look at getting it tuned to, how much power is too much for a RWD car to handle at the track (applying flame suit now).

Yes I know its a very open question with driver ability or lack of said ability, but I dont want it tuned to 400kw if 300kw will do.

I will only be doing supersprints at Wakey or E/C (RIP OP).

I hope someone understands my dribbling.

Thanks, Mark (what the hell am I doing) Robinson

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346684-how-much-power-is-to-much/
Share on other sites

You can never have to much power. Mine made 475rwkw. Not bad for a street car :thumbsup:

Its not max power Im after, its useable power, was told my turbo would be good for 400ish so hence my question with the max power at 400, my mates GTR has 450ish but takes a week to come on the boil (around 5000rpm I think), good for the drags and the dyno but not so much for the track I feel, mine is making boost at just over 3200ish now (3900 with the old 25 bottom end) but to get 475 I would need a bigger pump which would kill the resonse, I got the bigger bottom end to help with response as it was rubbish in the tight twisties.

So far Im thinking of a tune to around 300 on the low and a max (within reason) on the high.

Thanks for your responses, I need all the help I can get.

Mark (my mum says Im special) Robinson

I say just get it tuned to make what the tuner thinks is right for a track car. Throw your suspension and tyres at the thing and see how it goes. If it simply too much power for the setup then consider winding a bit of boost out of it and soften up the ignition in the meat of the curve but keep it in the top end

My 2c

how big is turbo etc, want a decent driveable car, look at the average performance car out there, holden r8's ford gt's etc, looking in the 300-350kw, since you wish track, go for about 400kw, nice number, not insane, not low, just nice.

i would say max out your car at 350kw with small turbos, less lag no problems. one thing that drags down turbos, is the turbo lag.

but thats only on street driving, since your tracking your car i doubt you will run below 4k rpm, so get ur turbo to kick in around that.

but its all user pref. from my view i would say a max of 500-550hp. :D

close to v8 supercars and close to most other circuit cars

Mark,,,I wouldn't be to concerned with how much power you have or can make,,,I would be looking at how much maximum torque you have "where" in the rev range and sticking to that. Sure for fun and giggles have a big horsepower setting,,,but really big usable torque will get you fast times everytime.

Cheers

Neil.

Mark,,,I wouldn't be to concerned with how much power you have or can make,,,I would be looking at how much maximum torque you have "where" in the rev range and sticking to that. Sure for fun and giggles have a big horsepower setting,,,but really big usable torque will get you fast times everytime.

Cheers

Neil.

agreed, forgot to mention that. more torque the better :D

Thanks guys, Ill let the tuner go for it and talk torque stuff with him.

Again thankyou for your patience.

Mark (I dont have a clue) Robinson

No Mark YOU need to take some control,,,I've never ever met a tuner that thinks the more power I show this guy the happier he'll be. That fact you need to get out of his head,,,tell him that while you love the big numbers you really would like a very drivable car with a big degree of safeness. No point running up the numbers,,,maxing out injectors ect. Tell him you will be going to places like Bathurst hill climbs at altitude,,,so you make him back off a bit.

Cheers

Neil.

Forgive my nooby questions.

I have a road registered R33 GTS-T with a 25/30 (built), It shall be going in for the final tune soon, as it is now its got around 220 @ 7 psi (EBC is turned off but has another 2 settings, (low and high).

I use R compound semi slick tyres.

I suppose what Im asking is how much power should I look at getting it tuned to, how much power is too much for a RWD car to handle at the track (applying flame suit now).

Yes I know its a very open question with driver ability or lack of said ability, but I dont want it tuned to 400kw if 300kw will do.

I will only be doing supersprints at Wakey or E/C (RIP OP).

I hope someone understands my dribbling.

Thanks, Mark (what the hell am I doing) Robinson

Mate, don't sweat the power too much, the figures people are putting out these days are pretty huge for a race car, consider the group A cars and the power outputs of that era and you will see outputs that people won't even look twice at, and for a street car !

But remember, although those cars were in most cases alot lighter (GT-R in later stages excluded) they were fast for a whole lot of other reasons than pure grunt alone.

Tune it as high as it'll go with an eye towards average power over peak power.

You don't have to use all the power when you take it to the track but at least you know it's safe when you decide to wind it up.

I don't know that there is such a thing as too much power, just too much for your setup :)

The only issue i see is that if you have a 400kw turbo and only run it at 300kw, it will be much less responsive than if you were to run a 300kw turbo. If it were me I'd just get the maximum power that can be had safely. Dont forget that to consider coolant/oil temperature and gearbox/clutch etc in the equation of what's "safe". You can always have less power by backing off the fun pedal or short shifting.

having gone 3L is a huge benefit, you can just drive through corners in a higher gear using the torque and short shift if you start spinning tyres... just get some decent suspension under it and a mech diff is a must... if you have too much power use some throttle control... because you have 3L you can have a good amount of power that's still nice and progressive... nothing worse than waiting for the power to come on out of a corner and then when it does it tries to put you backwards through the tyre wall

that said 400rwkw will have you buying new tyres every 5 minutes... somewhere from 300-350rwkw would be nice IMO

I went from 320 to 420 in my circuit R33 gtst and was slower around the track with the extra power. The car was setup ok for 320, but that extra 100 kw made it a dog to drive. Currently trying to get it sorted.

Okaly doakaly, Ill tell them that I want it tuned safe for good torque and not to worry about high HP, from what I understand once the torque starts to drop there is no point trying to wring its neck for more HP as I should be changing gear before the torque drops anyway, but if the torque doesnt drop the boost will go up to a safe reasonable level until it does,keeping in mind injectors and the turbo becoming non efficient.

What the internets have told me;

Torque drops=shift just before drop.

Torque stays flat=shift at rev limit which I think will be set at 7000rpm :mellow:

Torque eases off=shift so next gear is at a higher or same torque level

I wonder what mine will do ?

Also I may have to look at a better (correct size) and more efficient turbo down the track.

Car goes in on the 20 Dec for the tune so once its done Ill throw up a readout.

Thanks again guys

I know nothing about tuning, but engines typically detonate when at peak torque and cylinder pressures are at their highest. So saying tuned for peak torque but safe does not really make sense?!?!? (Does it?) Its probably safeer to throw more ignition in the top end and make more power then it is to chase a bit of mid grunt-torque by running more ignition in the lower revs as it ramps onto boost. Maybe thats not what is being said and I am off base...

Have a think about P = (Torque x RPM) / 5252. So an engine with pretty lazy torque curve, or just really flat curve can still make very good power at higher revs. Its been my experience that whilst turbos help engines a world with torque, they typically respond best to shifting around peak power, not torque.

At the end of the day, if your car is going to see more track work then lazy road kms I would only get the car tuned by a person experienced in that sort of motor and how they behave on the track when things , everything gets hot. He will know more then any of us here on SAU, and at the end of the day he is the one who has to stand by his work in case something goes pear shaped....and in that sad case "the people on SAU told me ... " wont help get the car fixed

"the people on SAU told me ... " wont help get the car fixed

LOL, yeah aint that the truth, My car will be tuned at Unigroup and I trust them with it, they got my motor built with me telling them that I want a strong motor that can handle some abuse so they used lots of good bits and peices like a big sump with flappy things and huge drains from the head and other magical bits and peices for oily stuff, its got coolers and others bits and peices for safety.

Im just looking for ideas on things to talk to hem about so we are on the same page, the car will only be used for super sprints so a max of about 3-4 laps so Im hoping that I shouldnt have to many problems with heat and such.

Also this is why Ive posted in motorsport as appossed to forced induction as I fell that the brain cells are slightly more active here.

:cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Keen to see the turbosmart data, to date I've only seen negative things in terms of response for them. Very small sample size though.     Hawkins is a big advocate in his videos of the larger rear housings. I managed to make similar power with a lower spec motor on the smaller .8 rear, keeping decentish spool.  The people he works with now are big power cars compared to mine though, mine really is setup to drive around and enjoy.  I don't have any back pressure monitoring though, so couldn't say if its good or bad on my car, just that it does what I want it to do.   Future I want a higher compression more cubes motor to give a bit more bottom end and hopefully the new g35-1150 gets me to the 850 rear comfortably.  But maybe I won't due to exhaust back pressure.
    • No, I refuse to buy their cheap ass crap! I do need to order a bunch of different nuts/bolts to refill my nut/bolt wall though. Maybe you could go for a walk through Bunnings for me? (Or send me some stuff from your work? )   I really struggle to work out how the US standardised to Metric in what the 70s or 80s, and yet, half a century later, there's been little done to actually bring it into fruition. It truly baffles me    On the whole Fastenal thing, I went reading their site (My god they sell a lot of varied stuff!), and it seems like it really depends what store you're near if you can walk in and just grab a few small things, or if that branch is primarily distribution with only a small window of "counter time" available (if at all). That definitely makes it harder, as move locations and it drastically changes your ability for success   For things like your M6x1.0, if you want to work on your own Skyline, and you also have a "home workshop" I'd recommend setting yourself up a small Nut/Bolt wall/section. It doesn't even need to be big at all. Most things depending on the diameter, will be a specific pitch, like the M6x1, M5x0.7 etc. Bigger bolts is mostly 1.5, except for a small number of things and that will come down to torque. From memory bolts for the brake calipers (and other things that need a lot of torque) will end up being a 1.25mm pitch. Save up a few dollars, and order a range of nuts/bolts. If you want to minimise cost a little, buy something like M6 x 40, and M6x70mm (1mm pitch) in both. In addition, buy yourself an M6x1mm thread chaser. That way you have long bolts that you can cut down to size, and then chase the threads out. Funnily enough, I find what I'd pay here for ordering 5 bolts, I can pay about 50% more and you'll get 100 of them.   If that doesn't quite work out due to space / ability to buy plenty up front, then each time you need some bolts, order 100 of what ever you're getting. Put them in clearly marked containers. Over a few years, you'll acquire plenty of different sizes, and will end up ordering less and less. And the cost for 100 bolts won't be much more than you paid for your 5 you needed to order anyway  Just takes a little planning ahead, by investigating what nuts/bolts you'll need, and ordering them before doing the job.     Edit: If it's also primarily for working on just the Skyline, for some reason my brain is screaming that at some point, either Nissan, Nismo, (Or possibly a third party) was selling a "kit" of every nut and bolt in a Skyline, purely for people restoring/rebuilding. It'd likely be quite expensive, but would give you every/any nut/bolt you need for stock/factory things. I'm not sure if it's still available, or even if it actually fully came to market, it's just something niggling in the back of my brain that you could look into further if that sort of thing interested you? (It might have been for the R32 GTR or something specifically too, and not just any Skyline)
    • 90lb/min @ 20psi is wonderful, not so much of a problem with the G35-1050's compressor efficiency (aside from how bad they roll back at higher pressure ratios).  The issue is more to do with the turbine's flow, which is why I'm not sold on going an even higher flowing compressor with the same turbine.  I'd say go back over Motive DVD's testing of the G35 1050 and Hawkins's comments regarding exhaust back pressure issues with it, I'd need to go back but I have in my head he went to the biggest hotside and ended up sacrificing a lot of spool (so it ended up behaving like a bigger turbo) and still had EMAP issues.  I've heard various other experiences along the lines of that. At this stage at least I rate all I've seen about Xonas (for transparency I've not used one directly, but I have spoke plenty with people who have) to have low exhaust restriction for the response they offer for any given setup - basically they allow the engine to breathe, which is good for the engine and makes making power a lot easier.  You arguably don't have to even push quite the same amount of airflow through an engine to make the same power if you don't have the bum plugged up with exhaust gas struggling to escape the engine due to an underflowing turbine.   In terms of reliability, to be fair I've had great luck with Garrett turbos as well - my GT3076R lasted forever, then I sold it and the next owner had no issues, then that car got sold and it was still going strong last I ever heard about it.  The trick is with the old GT-series turbos the compressors etc were no way near as efficient as what we have these days, it was almost hard to push them into severe overspeed situations without having a boost leak or something - and that is what often starts the failure situation.    In terms of your G35 I'm pretty sure you're running yours within sensible limits, something people with Xonas and Precision turbos aren't often so inclined to do.  The "compressor maps" are "Joe blogs ran 45psi through his 6466 so I can do the same" and built their setup to send it to the moon.  I've seen EMAP and compressor speed data where people have actually set that stuff up on Precisions and Xonas which have been run hard and the comp speed numbers are very very exciting at times - like I've seen 76mm Precisions run at rpm that you ideally shouldn't run a G35 1050 lol.   I know people who have run G-series Garretts hard and hard a failure, then replaced them with Pulsar turbos as a cheap "get it going" stop gap with the intent of doing a proper upgrade when THAT fails... and are still running the same thing.   Like anything, ymmv and it's not always to do with the quality or trustworthiness of said product. I've been provided with a bunch of compressor maps for Turbosmart turbos and will update my list based off that, they could prove to interesting reading and an interesting alternative as well.
    • Just cage it, call it a race car, and then fall in love with the chirp chirps through pit area!   Also, this is coming from someone with a completely locked diff...
    • I still have an old R32R left over from when they were a thing in the early 2000's. It was, for its time, done about right. But its time was 20 years ago.  I did try and update it a while back but it was cruelled by a (recommended) muppet of a tuna who couldnt tell his MAP from his TPS. The original spec was: Power FC, 700cc Sards, Nismo pump, 2860-5's, cams (Basically Poncam A's), Z32 AFM's and a half sorted oiling system. Thereabouts 430rwhp irrespective of what was done. So, yeah, very 1990's. I eventually got sick of it not being very refined and bought a Link G4 PNP with some 1000cc Bosch injectors. This was tuned badly and I put the car in the shed for a few years whilst I sulked and went and did other things. Ive come around to the idea of getting it going again so it has a new gearbox installed and some other minor things in the planning. So my questions are, variously (In the context of keeping the Link) What other sensors should I be running eg It has no wideband on it at the moment, nor fuel pressure. $? Is it worth chucking the old ignition system (ignitors etc) for new ignition coils? $2k? Cam/crank angle sensors? Can keep the aircon? $? Anything else? Sorry to launch another what should I do with my car thread but, you know, what should I do with my car? Random photo for historical context.
×
×
  • Create New...