Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi , my name is Chewy Im 21 and I own a RB25DET powered S13.

I ussualy work on my own car and when i come accross a dilema i search for a solution online ussualy, on car forums such as this...or nico,zilvia, nwnissans...ect

Im replacing my clutch/ flywheel. I replaced my oem clutch with a 6 puck clutch and replaced my flywheel with a lighter flywheel. everthing is torqued to specs and ready for my tranny to bolt rite up (so i think..)

Dilema#1; after i replaced those things (clutch/flywheel) i started reading online, everytime you replace your clutch/ flywheel , you should also replace your pilot bearing/bushing. now this is after everthing is already installed and torqued down. i relized that i didnt replace the pilot bearing nor the bushing. is that a problem ? should i be worried? am i ok to continue and bolt the tranny back on? Do you guys think i should unbolt everything, start from the begining and replace those things aswell?

Dilema #2; i noticed after i bolted up everthing that the clutch is in contact with the pressure plate/ flywheel ( like panckakes) everthing looks good but i went to the front of the car and turned the main crank pully and it turns the flywheel. i know the flywheel never stops rotating when the engine is on but when i turned it, it made a friction sound as if the clutch plate(6puck) was too close to it causing friction? it wasnt hard to turn nor was it a harsh sound . i simply need to know if thats normal and if the clutch is always in contact with the flywheel or is it suppose to be free flowing/ spinning without contact?

id like to know what you guys think. im doing this on my own and i wanna do this right the first time. and i dontknow if im taking things to serious so any information regaurding this topic would help.

thnx guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346687-worried-did-i-do-this-right/
Share on other sites

Dilema 1: Are you talking about the Spigot bush and the throwout bearing?. The Spigot bush is the one in the back of your crank where the input shaft for your gearbox sits when its mated to the engine and the throwout bearing is the one that activates your clutch. Sorry just not sure about the terms your using lol, but if that sounds right then...... Spigot bush is probably OK unless you can notice something Odd about it. The throwout bearing I would replace.... Usually clutch kits come with a new throwout bearing?

seen as you havent put the transmission on it wouldnt hurt to change both now while its not to much of an issue. But id Def change the throwout bearing.

Dilema 2: Thats a harder one without seeing and knowing more.... But I think that with the throwout bearing and clutch fork on it will spring the clutch plate out a little. But this one im not so sure about.....

the spigot bearing...i didnt know the exact name ...but i didnt replace it. I did replace the throw out bearing tho. last nite i finished everything up and installed my tranny and fired her up....seems to run great other than one problem.... the pedal seems to feel really mushy and weak. sometimes its pressed in and wont come back up and it wont engage in gear? i did bleed the clutch cilendar.....so i dont know whats goin on? i came accross many threads on diffrent forums and people with similar problems after changing there clutch/ flywheel. people sudjested to bleed the clutch more untill i felt the the diffrence in the pedal, even read that people have bled there clutch system for over an hour to get all the air bubbles out of the system and that worked for them.

but i did notice one thing when installing my new throw out bearing to the shaft of the tranny, i notice that when i pulle the lever all the way down on the side of the tranny the throw out bearing would get stuck on top almost disangaing from its path of travel. but would come back after i pressed it again manually with my hand....so i think my problem has something to do with my throw out bearing getting stuck when pedal if fully pressed to the floor? i did grease the bearing for smooother travel. and i also noticed that after i shut off the car for a while and took it for a drive around the block later that nite that it seemed normal and the problem had dissapeared as if it never happended. but at diffrent times it would do the same thing.....mushy pedal dropping to the floor when fully pressed ,not engaging in gear.... id had to try to put it in gear numerous time before the pedal actually workded.

should i continue to bleed the system and see if it works ? whats a solution for this annoying problem? or does my pedal need to be re adjusted all over again?

It does sound like you have air in your system. Get another person to bleed the clutch while you pump the clutch pedal, and keep doing it until it feels like a properly working hard clutch. Also did you adjust the clutch pedal already? Cause it will most likely need adjustment since your last clutch...

Edited by ichizora

k well this is wierd but i kinda like it hahah, since then ive been driving the car every morining and the issue is no longer relivent. it seemed to vanish. but i never adjusted the pedal...i wouldnt even know how? and i looked under there and where it seems like there would be a spring on the pedal, there isnt any spring......i looked at my brothers s13 and his clutch pedal doesnt have a spring eather. but clutch pedal travel and stiffness is good.

well i hope the clutch problem doesnt come back, but if it does ill try to bleed it again and if it does not work ill update the syntoms its performing.

other than that ,thanks for your replies.

.

theres no spring on any hydraulic clutch pedals that i've seen. the pedal gets pushed back up by the pressure plate.

your issues with a mushy pedal sounds like a hydraulic issue, as said, bleed it all properly and check for leaks if it appears again.

spigot bush should be fine aslong as its not flogged out

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I used this https://osgiken.com.au/product/os-giken-os-250r-lsd-gear-oil-80w250-1-litre/   shut my nismo 1.5 pro up by heaps…. Not silent though. Gives the car character and personality. It ain’t a carolla. If you want silent, put a quaife in it.
    • It's about the same time for me from Bunnings, or the Fasteners. My big push away from takeaway food, and gluten in general keeps me away from the Bunnings Snags too! Weather up here, I've been out for two walks today in the beautiful sunshine. Had a few little drizzles, and some wind, that honestly, a tin of beans and I could compete on how harsh she blows Thankfully, being this bit inland, we're not getting anything much really. Will probably pick up a bit more when/if Cyclone Alfie decides to come ashore. A few areas in the GC though, and south into NSW are really getting smashed though! Right now, I'm just annoyed Alfie hasn't hit, as I'm not allowed to crack into the BBQ foods like the bacon and eggs until the Cyclone hits "In case we lose power"...
    • I love fastener joints, the price difference between them and joints like Bunnings or Super Cheap is amazing, and they either have exactly what you want, or they can get it to quick They have even given me some for free when I only needed a couple of specific size In saying this, I have paid premium for fasteners from Bunnings if they have the sizes I need, but only for convenience really, as my local is only 10 minutes away, the Sushi joint near them is also a consideration  How's the weather Matt? Stay safe mate
    • Wideband is worth setting up if only for tuning purposes. I would not mess with the ignition system unless there's a misfire. HKS crank trigger is popular out here for the relatively easily sourced Denso crank sensor, not a bad idea to install as well regardless of power level on a standalone. Boost leak test is worth thinking about. Oil pressure sensor tied to a fuel cut isn't a bad idea either. Getting the tune figured out is a good idea. Without putting eyes on it and getting under it there's no way for us to tell you exactly what it needs but most likely you're down to the last 10% that will make a big, big difference in how happy you are with the car.
    • Doing a refresh of my 33 and can see a few websites stating they sell the entire main carpet for our cars, but they all have generic photos which is fine, i understand they are custom made to order.  Just seeing if anyone has got it done or had any experience with this, as i would only want to do it if the fit and finish was as good as oem https://carmatsdirect.com.au/products/moulded-carpet-or-vinyl-for-nissan-skyline-r33-1993-1998-coupe https://knoxautocarpets.com.au/moulded-carpets/nissan/skyline/skyline-r-33-1993-1998/
×
×
  • Create New...