Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Depends what you want to acheive and on what mods you have done already. If you want more power up the boost. Poncams are said to run nicely on the Rb25DET but I'd rather spend the money on a new turbo. If you don't go for the cams an adjustable exhaust cam gear will give a small midrange improvement.

on a different note, you say you can improve midrange by adjusting the cam gears on an rb25? would this stop R&R on a standard turbo setup? i have mega R&R in midrange on anything above 7psi, would altering the cam gears help this? or just make it more R&R?

The short answer is no.

Unless you have a fairly big turbo GT3076 and up they dont make much difference.

I remember a few years ago on here, a bloke put some Tomei poncams in his Stock turboed 34 GT-T and lost power everywhere in the rev range, even after It was tuned to within an inch of its life.

Roy also went backwards changing to Apexi cams in his angry RB20

The short answer is no.

Unless you have a fairly big turbo GT3076 and up they dont make much difference.

I remember a few years ago on here, a bloke put some Tomei poncams in his Stock turboed 34 GT-T and lost power everywhere in the rev range, even after It was tuned to within an inch of its life.

Roy also went backwards changing to Apexi cams in his angry RB20

Are you referring to Bass Junky? Pretty sure he had poncams and got good results but got nowhere with adjusting cam gears.

The short answer is no.

Unless you have a fairly big turbo GT3076 and up they dont make much difference.

I remember a few years ago on here, a bloke put some Tomei poncams in his Stock turboed 34 GT-T and lost power everywhere in the rev range, even after It was tuned to within an inch of its life.

Roy also went backwards changing to Apexi cams in his angry RB20

Hi But he`s has 33 head not a Neo ,so can`t compair them,

for me keep stock get adj cam gear,

then save if you want CAM UPGRADE,

learn to handle what you have & then think what`s next.

Cheer`s Chuckie.

It depends what you have done so far. If youve done pretty much all the bolt on stuff and are looking for the next engine mod than yes the poncams are a good option. Thats what I did got all bolt on stuff done now going for some poncams and exhuast cam gear. But yeah as others said if you havent done the stage 1 bolt ons I wouldn't think its a good idea to do them.

Considering that you can get a genuine 500rwhp with standard RB25 cams, I dont think it is worth it at all unless you want more than that.

As for the Neo vs R33 setup, the ports are the same, valve sizes are very similar if not the same, only advantage between say a 256deg 8.5mm lift cam for the Neo would be slightly more agressive ramp rates on the lobes, and thats if Tomei even bothered to do that.

It aint about peak horsepower though. It is about gaining more power in the midrange which is extremely hard to do on a setup allready pushed to its limit.

Yeah thats my main reason for opting for a set of cams Im not concerned about peak so much, so once again it depends what you want and are aiming for.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is possibly 55 degrees for the Nismo version. I had a look through the manual and the stocker has a breakaway torque of 2.5 to 3.5kgm. Supposedly the Nismo LSD goes down to 5kgm when worn in but it is pretty grabby even with very little throttle. Worse when cold. So I guess you have three things. 1. Shims. 2 Friction plates 3. Cams Would think shims would be the easiest but Ive no clue how many tenths of a mm shim thickness change equals how many kgm torque. Also not sure if the Nismo friction plates are similar/different to stock or if they are the most of the source of the diff being angry. Think I can write off the Nismo rebuild kit for the standard diff as not being what I want.  
    • Yeah, it was a bit of confusion with me, I rang and asked if they had a boot for a soft top, and then the paint shop when they rang and were asked if it had a hard top on it, which it does, just not a PRHT....LOL Meh, whilst frustrating for all concerned it isn't a war stopper and should be a thing of the past in a week or two In other N/A related news, car is booked in at the end of the month for the cams, springs, retainers, harmonic balancer and retune  I might even pull the lazy arse card and get them to do a full service on it whilst it is there
    • Factory LSD is supposedly a 2 way with a very conservative cam. If you've already tried adding friction modifier to the diff oil and it still locks up too much for your liking you might want to adjust the ramp rate on the cam to be more like OEM instead of reducing initial torque even further. People claim the 8 kgf-m disc kit for the OEM LSD is still very streetable but I've never been able to compare everything side by side on my own.
    • Oh man, at least it sounds they've accepted they stuffed up and not put it back on you...could see some confusion if they asked if it had a hardtop or not, and you've answered truthfully but maybe not answering their real question which is what roof did it have from the factory! Glad your keeping it N/A 2.5
    • Nah, I much prefer colour matched Talking about colour matching stuff, the new/used boot lid turned up, all painted up perfectly......aaaannnndddd, it's for a power retractable hard top, not a soft top.....LOL They are now sending a boot to fit a soft top.....,  whilst frustrating, life is like that sometimes, sometimes you just need to dodge, duck, dip, dive and, ummm, dodge.
×
×
  • Create New...