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rb25det motor no manifolds can be seen running in my cefiro 160 psi compression $1000

rb25det complete s2 motor $1600

rb20det complete front cut 99k on clock $1300 no dash suspension etc

rb26dett gearbox $750

rb25det gearbox $1150

rb26 intake and adaptor plate to suit rb25det $650

r32gtr nismo 260km dash $250

white enkei 16x7+32 like new and have legal tread $400

r32 m spec front bar has fog lights etc $300

r33 m spec front bar $250

s13 stock headlights $120 pair

s13 stock tail lights $60 pair

s14 5 stud kit $700 +100 with lca

r33 5 stud kit with front and rear brakes $550

s13 gab rear coil overs looks like no leaks $220

s13 tien rears one squeeks $200

s14 tein coil overs epic leaks full set with camber tops $380

s14 nismo (suspected 2 way) with japanese receipts and awesome stickers in housing $650

s14 cradle $80

hicas lock bar $50

basicly brand new z32 afm used on my cef for 2 laps at archy paid 365 .. $260 with plug

stock s14 radiator and shroud $100

s14 dash $100

sr20 s13 tailshaft $150

s13 manual shifter surround(no boot) $50 have 2 of

s13 front strut brace $50

r32 front strut brace $50

epic front 33 strut brace $75

tien s13 castor rods $80

s13 bonnet n0 damage $100

s13 bonnet black little damage in corner $50

s13 fiberglass front guards wider and vented came off car from japan $200

s13 boot lid no wing no damage $100

r33 boot lid with wing $100

s13 clear taillights $120

s13 door shells $100 side

r32 gtr door shells $120 side

mint r32 headlights $180

mint r32 orange indicators $80

s13 manual petals and clutch master and slave $200

bride brix on s14 rail $400 2 small 5c peice side tears

pair of 32gtr seats need a clean and drivers has big tear $350

rb25det box - 1200

rb25det manual radiator - 100

r33 front brakes and rotors $250

r33 rear hubs and brakes perfect for silvia or cef 5 stud (33 handbrakes work mint in these) -300

r33 rear cradle -100

r200 lsd diff -200

r200 5 bolt half shafts $100

r33 complete fuel pump assembily -$50

r33 5 stud front hubs -$120 pair

r33 steering rack -80

r33 front seats -150

r33 guards -50 each

r33 brake booster-100

r33 clutch petal-50

r33 dash cluster 147xxx km -100

r33 dash with awesome jap spec stickers all over it $100

r33 side mount cooler $40

r33 washer bottle -$50

r33 over flow bottle $50

r33 diff back exhaust with cannon $50

r33 standard castor arms $20 each

r33 front wishbones $50 each

set of 3 white face defis with control box $550 firm

i have so much stuff here i think i only just scratched the tip of whats here if you have anything your chasing pm me or txt 0434284753

i have like 5 complete s13 rear cradles lol buy one

have a full r32gtr rear end and r32 gtr bar without a lip

  • 1 month later...

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    • The trigger kit I have is similar to the one in the link below. While going through Facebook, I saw someone else mention a similar issue, and I’m starting to think this could be related to the crank gear itself. I understand these parts are CNC machined, but maybe some earlier versions or individual pieces might have slight inconsistencies—it just doesn’t look right in my case. https://www.facebook.com/share/16an8evZd9/?mibextid=wwXIfr I originally installed the crank gear using the thin OEM washer, but as shown in the attached photo, the timing belt walks very close to the edge. When I tried using a Nitto washer—which is thicker—it actually made the issue worse. The belt walks about 1mm off the front edge, which raises more concern about alignment.   I’ve gone through the full process of elimination:   The tensioner pulley and bolt are brand new and installed correctly. The bolt isn’t bent and is oriented properly. The back of the tensioner and the idler pulley are clean and seated correctly. The idler sits slightly more forward, which I understand is due to its design. I’ve experimented with both tight and loose belt tension, but it makes no difference. As soon as the engine runs, the belt immediately walks forward again—even if I reset it beforehand.     At this point, I’m considering replacing the crank gear with your Race Version 1 (12-tooth), but before purchasing, I wanted to ask:   Are you aware of any alignment issues when using this gear? Would this gear help keep the belt aligned correctly, or could the walking still occur? Does it work with a standard missing-tooth crank and rear washer? Is there any specific crank setup or install procedure required?     For reference, I’m not using a front washer, as the PRP crank gear seems to replace the need for one.   Looking forward to your advice.
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    • Yuh, My new R34 box is sitting on the workshop floor (in its large shipping box, which is a nice thing on its own), along with a front plate to convert to push clutch. There was no way I was interested in rebuilding my existing one. Was only partly interested in the risk of buying a used one. But, if you want a 2nd hander, I can point you to one in/near Melbourne at least. @Komdotkom has one that should be in good enough condition to be usable. I don't think it's in a for sale thread, you'd have to message him. @redzedhas one that definitely needs a rebuild.
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