Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day just in the pocess of rebuilding my rb 26 for my r32 gtr and wondering what sort of power to expect once its done and tuned. mods include

-bored to 86.5mm with forged cp pistons

-eagle rods

-2 Garret 2560 (-5) Turbos

-bosch indy blue 1600cc injectors

-billet fuel rail

-z32 air flow meters

-nizmo fuel pump

-nizmo fuel regulator

-different coil packs not sure though what they are

-os giken cam gears

-n1 oil pump

-3 and half inch exhaust

-blue printed and balanced crank

-standard cams

-acl race bearing

-computer is a apexi power fc with hand controller

all info will be much appreciated and what sort of boost would be expected thanks for everyones input.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/347206-rb26-build-what-power-to-expect/
Share on other sites

Your injectors are way too big for a BP ultimate tune. Switch to 700's or 800's and you'll be able to get it to idle with a sane AFR... but 1600's! Unless your using E85 they are pointless.

And 350awkw would be achievable.

  • Like 1

Please read the 26 dyno results thread. there are plenty of results in there to view.

there is also a 15+ page thread on these turbos.

the norm is 380-400rwkw on pump

420-440rwkw on E85 others have said, those injectors are ridiculously big for PULP. 800cc are fine.

thanks.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't be ridiculous. "2-3 ugga duggas or one Oof. You have to use Oof on tie rods because you can't get an ugga dugga on there." Is not helping the guy at all.
    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
    • Ok...its taking me long enough to finally do this.  Feck financial security...heart disease will get me soon enough anyway So welcome to the garage..."Clem" Belsil80 has been running a 370Z in Super TT series. So after entering with him in last years Winton 300 i figured I  need my own car. Seems SAU Vic race cars need to be yellow....{tick} Reckon with enough motor i will be able to make up for the lack of talent and stay ahead of the 370Z... but the LS powered S13 and E36s are a ways up the road Aim is to have a car that doesnt stop or turn but has a bit of shed built motor with jam...maybe some cream  First step is getting this ex drift car log booked I am keeping faithful silver car. As the road-club car gets upgrades the race car wil get the sloppy seconds
    • Assuming that they will come off without damage at all.... i would have thought just pull straight up off the spindle with a something or other than can reach underneath. Have you searched for youtube vids of people doing similar on R34s or any other Nissan from the same vintage? They should be the same technique, in all likelihhood.
    • Keeping in mind that sandblasting is really aggressive on softer metals like cast alloy, and you can do damage that you might regret. For trash wheels, not a problem. For wheels with value/scarcity issues, etc.... perhaps a less aggressive media is a better choice?
×
×
  • Create New...