Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys have the following for sale

Catco 3" Highflow Cat Converter (Flows great, burns as should be, not bashed at all! $50

De Cat Pipe 3" (Suitable for racing, has serface rust needs a clean $20

R34 RB25DET T3 turbo in good condition, minimal shaft play, comes with oil lines,drain and turbo outlet. Has OP6 rear housing. Also has an adjustable wastegate actuator of a gt3076 garrett $350

Polished Intake Pipe 2.5" - 3" woth all hoses and clamps $50

Turbotech manual turbo boost controller As new $20

Apexi Pod Filter with bracket Used with some wear, works perfectly. $50

Autotechnica Sports Wheel with Mitsubishi boss kit $30

Volt Gauge (Works really well for no name brand) $15

All Parts Locatated In SE Melb, Hampton, prices do not include postage but will send anywhere in OZ

img0922o.th.jpgimg0923w.th.jpgimg0924m.th.jpgimg0925m.th.jpgimg0926hp.th.jpgimg0927tp.th.jpgimg0928j.th.jpgimg0929x.th.jpgimg0931a.th.jpgimg0932g.th.jpg

What power is the turbo good for? Would be using it on a 33 if that makes a difference. And when you say minimal shaft play, would it be better off being reconditioned before putting it on? Or is it still good.

Turbo would produce slightly more power then a stock r33 turbo, essentialy the same execpt this has the larger OP6 rear housing, perfect option for a highflow then what on the 33, or jsut as is for a slight increase.

  • 3 weeks later...

Boost t, highflow cat and intake pipe sold!

Turbo

De Cat

Pod

S/Wheel

all still here. Will be away with work for a month but pm me if you want something.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

Some parts still available!

R34 RB25DET T3 turbo in good condition, minimal shaft play, comes with oil lines,drain and turbo outlet. Has OP6 rear housing. Also has an adjustable wastegate actuator of a gt3076 garrett $300 + Postage

Autotechnica Sports Wheel with Mitsubishi boss kit $25 + postage

Apexi Pod Filter with bracket Used with some wear, works perfectly. $45 + postage

Turbotech manual turbo boost controller As new $20 + postage

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A little follow up here on the ceramic coating.  We've had storms galore here and I've done a few ks, enough to gross them up  Consensus is that they didn't get as dirty as usual, the coating definitely repelled a little of the dirt and I think they kinda snowball. They get a little dirty and then they get dirty faster which makes sense. Cleaning them regularly would allow them to protect better.  Cleaning was a breeze. I tried first to just hose them off which, unsurprisingly, did nothing. But, making the wheels wet and then just wiping them over with a used but clean microfibre cloth was all that was required. I didn't need any cleaner at all, just water and a cloth. The wheels look amazing again.
    • Gave her a nice wash today and took extra time to clean off the tree sap and tar and crap. We have a usable garage now so she'll stay cleaner longer. Took a few snaps in some nice light afterwards.   
    • OK, solid mount Z1 diff brace is in, pretty straightforward, it picks up 3 diff hat bolts and ties them to 2 support bolts on the subframe. Pretty sure someone else on here said they had reduced axle tramp with this but mine was already pretty good for smooth wheelspin, and still is....will see you this goes over time and whether I end up with a broken rear diff hat
    • Ah yes, but the part in my hand was actually painted and fitted by me! I knew any front lip was likely to be sacrificial but I've had to fix it twice already... by the time I buy a fibreglass fixing kit, sort out sandpaper blocks, buy some fibreglass filler, body bog, spend the time and effort for a 'Greg' result... a new one being $290 seems like it's the better way to go and spray that with bedliner/raptor coat and we're all pretty again.. Would have preferred it last more than a month though. Them's the breaks I suppose.
    • I find it funny that the USA is finding out all this really really weird stuff, and people from the USA are coming here treating it like gospel, yet, all the info on solving those issues is here on these forums for the last 15 odd years... Also, I know how much heat it takes to ignite the hood lining of an R33 skyline. I worked it out myself... It also took a LOT of time, and heat for it to do it... Big single, and I needed to drive the car, so retarded the timing off to "protect it". Yeah, that was a bad move for cruising on a freeway with only 15 degrees of timing on it. That was a lesson I learned around 2009. So that's over 15 odd years ago. Aligning water and oil, that's identical for any turbo engine, it's not Japanese specific. If a shop doesn't know how to make sure the core is rotated the right way, then they shouldn't be touching any turbo engine. That's not a matter of "We haven't had Skylines for that long here"...
×
×
  • Create New...