Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my 32 gtst has a t3 turbo, hks low mount manifold, hks gate and has been de-boosted because of it running so lean. I need to do something about the stock ecu and injectors if i want it to see past 240 hp which im on now at 8 psi. ive been told many different things about wolf, stinga and nistune which are what im lookin at.... is it really worth saving for the apexi?

Who is tuning the car?

Go with whatever system they are most comfortable with. As for injectors, anything around 500cc will be sufficient. I would recommend Siemens injectors

This shit has been covered SO MANY TIMES

  • Like 1

C - Red do good work... if you are going to C - Red they wont do Nistune I dont think but ask them what they think is best if you want Jeff to tune it

They have done all the work on my Rb22 = top job

can use 440cc GTR injectors with resistor pack is a common thing too

  • Like 1

C - Red do good work... if you are going to C - Red they wont do Nistune I dont think but ask them what they think is best if you want Jeff to tune it

They have done all the work on my Rb22 = top job

can use 440cc GTR injectors with resistor pack is a common thing too

called C-red today they said they want to put a haltech inside my ecus casing and ill prolly go with sard 550cc injectors tuned for 2200

Ring Hyperdrive or Allstar Garage and go with NIStune and GTR injectors for probably 1/2 of the price of the Haltech and Sards.

Edited by bubba

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But it's much better to use a freedom unit that has four different possible meanings...
    • I would try messing with friction modifier to see if it smooths it out.  Just keep adding more until it stops chattering or grabbing quite so much. If you haven't changed the gear oil in a long time you may as well start there too in case that has anything to do with it. You might want to also verify the initial torque is set to the lowest setting too. Requires popping out one of the CV axles first but that's not too bad. Once you're sure the preload is set to the lowest you can try adding an ounce at a time of friction modifier until it feels right to you.
    • It is possibly 55 degrees for the Nismo version. I had a look through the manual and the stocker has a breakaway torque of 2.5 to 3.5kgm. Supposedly the Nismo LSD goes down to 5kgm when worn in but it is pretty grabby even with very little throttle. Worse when cold. So I guess you have three things. 1. Shims. 2 Friction plates 3. Cams Would think shims would be the easiest but Ive no clue how many tenths of a mm shim thickness change equals how many kgm torque. Also not sure if the Nismo friction plates are similar/different to stock or if they are the most of the source of the diff being angry. Think I can write off the Nismo rebuild kit for the standard diff as not being what I want.  
    • Yeah, it was a bit of confusion with me, I rang and asked if they had a boot for a soft top, and then the paint shop when they rang and were asked if it had a hard top on it, which it does, just not a PRHT....LOL Meh, whilst frustrating for all concerned it isn't a war stopper and should be a thing of the past in a week or two In other N/A related news, car is booked in at the end of the month for the cams, springs, retainers, harmonic balancer and retune  I might even pull the lazy arse card and get them to do a full service on it whilst it is there
×
×
  • Create New...