Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have noticed that vertical lines are developing in my tint - both doors.

Had the same tint on my R33 for about 4 years now, and have been noticing these lines for the past 6 months or so.

I always try to keep my windows clean, and won't open them when they are dirty.

Still, it seems to be getting worse over time. I notice a little nicking noise sometimes, which I assume is when it touches.

I reckon its the little white fluffy square things inside the door that hold the window outwards from the inside while it moves. If you wash the car and then open and close the window, the water line will show you where I am talking about. You can see these if you look down the door with the window open.

I rang about 20 window tinting places asking them if they service these things to stop tint damage from occuring, and NONE of them said yes. They were just interested in selling me a retint, which I can't blame them, would be better for business.

Just wondering if anyone else has ever had this problem, and what you did to overcome this. I would have assumed that if the felt was just getting dirty, that a lot of people would have the same problem.

Was thinking of popping off the door trim, looking for loose screws, and seeing how easy it would be to take those felts out to examine for sand or dirt, etc and maybe even resurface it or try buying new ones if they sell them separate.

I don't think the window guides are the issue, but what do I know.

Would prefer to seek out an option to take it to a pro first, else it'll become a DIY with guidance from the SAU crowd.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34748-door-window-tint-getting-scratched/
Share on other sites

It is a common problem. I replaced all the tints on my car when I got it (they were all defective in one way or another) and the lines very faintly started appearing again on the new tints after a few months.

One time I had the door trim off and I loosened off the nut that holds down the front felt thing, and it kind of twisted slightly. I put it back where I thought it should be, and after that I could no longer hear the window squeaking on that felt anymore. Since then I haven't noticed the lines getting any worse at all.

I don't know if it was just badly aligned or pressing too firmly against the window, but if you've got the same problem it can't hurt to loosen it off and try adjusting it slightly. To me it looked to go back where it came from but whatever I did has definitely helped. Probably not perfect, but I can save myself from re-tinting that window for a lot longer than if I didn't touch it.

Yeah, its very hard to stop it scratching a little over time. Like JimX said, you can adjust it.

Otherwise its just fact that every even despite using this "Formula1 best on market, blah, blah" that it will happen sooner or later. I guess you just wait the 2 years or so before it becomes to bad and pay the $50 to get the window redone. General "wear and tear" item.

  • 2 weeks later...

I am looking to tint my R33.....

Sounds like maybe I should reconsider!

Also, do any of u hear the windows make a 'crunk' noise when they are fully shut and u press the button to open them? seems like they dun open smoothly....

My friend has a 1988 celica and he has the same problem..does this happen with age????????

I am frustrated now...

ive got these things on my car, although it doesnt affect the tint ? as tint is on the inside of the car and hose felt bits are on the outside part ??... thats what it sorta looks like anywyas......... leaves an ugly mark up it though, ive jus assumed its standard R33 stuff cus i seen a lot of them with it.

My R32 has several white plastic clamps that hold the rubber on top outer of the door, along with one screw at very end of door (open end). When I take this top outer rubber off, I find on it, two flat sections that have a material afixed to them. This material is supposed to keep the glass off the white plastic clamps, courtesy of the fact the material holds the window glass away from the outside of the door. Only trouble is that over time this material wears down and then you get the problems you're talking of. You can take the top outer rubber off the door and remove material, clean and supaglue new material in its place (carpet or that protector stuff you put under chairs/couches when placing them on polished floorboards). Of course, this too, over time will wear and you may need repeat the process.

Do in conjunction with repositioning of glass (see 12mm lock nuts over flat screw thread ends towards top center of exposed inner door).

my $0.02c

hey mudder, how do you reposition the glass, on my R32 the drivers side window doesn't seem to go right to the top, and it makes a little clunk noise when it stops, when i got the car there was some broken glass on the floor, so i am thinking after the importer got a new window put in they did not align it properly!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=35597

As the above link would tell you this has happened to me too and im not very happy as its not covered under there warranty. Its supposively the rollers with the white cloth too tight as someone has mentioned earlier on this post. They are very tightly screwed on and i would like to know how you guys have loosened it without damaging the bolt.

Yeah got the same problem in my 33. The drivers door has one line scratched into the tint pretty bad and possibly into the window as well. Considered getting that window retinted and fixing the rollers but I guess there’s not too much point if the window is scratched too?

  • 1 month later...

Bump* i have been having the same problem with my tinting so i thought i may as well track down the problem.

first there is 2 felt soft thingos on the inside of the door that hold the window from bouncing around when it is halfway up/down.

these over time start to clump together and fill full of dirt ect.

after getting new tinting i started to notice this.

there is 2 ways to fix this from scratching your tints.

a) losern the bolt holding the felt thing in place a little and slide it away from the window a few mm not far at all. then re tighten. this should stop the scratchs because it is not pressing against the window as hard as before.

B) replace the felt tips - pain in the ass - cant remove the metal clip with the felt tips attached without pulling apart whole door.

i would take picture to explain better but dunno where our camera is atm

hope this helps someone

  • 1 month later...

Finally I have net access again - so I'm back baby!

Anyway just wanted to let you guys know that I had the same problem and solution results as JimX.

Wiped the black felts as much as I could just to be complete. Got the silicon spray and spent a few minutes each side making sure the tracks and rollers were lubed up. I could be wrong but have noticed the motor noise sounds slightly quieter after that, as well as the window moving slightly faster. I'm assuming its because the motor and glides have less resistance now.

As for the white felt bits that were causing the scratches...a bit hard to loosen ! probably what did it. I just loosened them. They angled as JimX said. I tried to take them out to see if I could resurface them. Couldn't get them out of the door cavity, so put them back only I didn't tighten them up as much - still firm, but not tight enough to squash the door metal to oblivion. Difference just have been a mm or two, but seems to have made the difference.

Existing scratches are there still, but I'm happy knowing they won't get worse - till I replace them one day. At least the glass is protected.

Thanks again guys !

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How's everyone going? Just a shout-out introducing myself. I'm James, I live on the north side of Brisbane. I bought an R33 that had been left to rot in someone's front yard for 14 years. Apparently, it has immobiliser/fuel issues. Long story short, it's suffering from a seized engine, plus whatever else turns up once it runs. The car is pretty good considering it sat for so long. It pretty much died after being imported. It has a bunch of Jap parts and a full Top Secret body kit. It's painted Fiat Turchese Festival, or aqua blue if you're not French. Another project to throw money at!
    • So the clockspring is responsible for the indicators cancelling on their own? I thought that was the function of that white thing in the center (any idea what it's called?)
    • Can you log IAT? Whilst WTA coolers have their place, doing any sort of sustained run is not one of them There are fixes that slow down the heat soak, like ice boxes, which don't last that long, and interchillers, which are fairly expensive, up grades to the WTA cooling radiator, which may require a bigger pump, and upgrades to the reservoir size,  and upgrades to the cooling fans, but, it all still heat soaks, and takes ages to come down in hot weather  For a turbo, that isn't locked into WTA like my PD blower is, can you not possibly swap to a nice air to air intercooler????, it would be better for sustained runs then, and have alot less things that could go wrong in my opinion 
    • So, the other thing I've sorted is a baseline dyno run up at Unigroup's new location. The auto trans was a little unco-operative by both shifting down when the throttle was floored on the dyno (so Mark had to ramp it up more slowly than in a manual) and also by shifting up at 6,000 even in sports mode instead of the indicated redline of 7,000 Still, on a hot day it made 240rwkw at 16psi which seems about right for 300kw (400hp) through an auto at the wheels.  The shape of the curve is not quite right because it was not full throttle to about 4,500 to stop it kicking down, but until I can get a tune on the auto trans control this was the best we could do.....full boost will be well below 5,000 once that is sorted, I'll get some data logs when I can to confirm For comparison, the R32 made 255 at 12psi (at 4,500) on the same dyno with tune, n1 turbos, cam gears, big exhaust but otherwise all standard so the v37 is likely a little better out of the box. One thing that is very clear is that the standard water to air intercoolers are not up to sustained use at full throttle in warm ambient temps. After about 5 runs (so only a few minutes full throttle), it was pulling boost and timing and dropping 10-15% power. Unfortunately I didn't get that printout and the Unigroup guys are away at the moment, will try and get hold of it on their return. So, looks like a healthy engine to start modifying and the only real area of concern is the w2a heat exchangers which the aftermarket has plenty of solutions for    
    • I maintain it actually looked really nice in person. So much so that I thought "No, this is illegal" but there it was, clear as day. I think we can easily call the wing and wheels/height to be transformative. Not saying it's better than the GR Whatever, or the 86, or the WRX STI or anything of that sort (the internet says it all bolts up so you can buy best of all worlds?) but it's still at least a thing and not nearly AS bad as people say.
×
×
  • Create New...