Jump to content
SAU Community

Drivers Side Wont Lock With Fob And Statutory Warranty

jjjones

By jjjones,
in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)

 Share

Recommended Posts

jjjones Enthusiast

jjjones

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

I just bought my 2003 v35 coupe last weekend (Will post pics of it up soon). And have now noticed that the drivers side door 90% of the time does not lock/unlock via the remote.

I wound the drivers window down and closed the door. when i press lock/unlock on the remote, i can see the door lock on the inside move a couple of milimeters.

I've read up on this and it seems that it is a common issue with these cars.

I bought the car from a dealer and it is still under the 3-month statutory warrenty. This is the first time i've bought a car from a dealer, so i've never claimed warrenty.

I rang up my dealer and he said to take the car to an auto electrician or a mechanic and get a quote from them to fix it, and because of i have statutory warrenty, they're suppose to fax the quote off to the warrenty place (national warrenty company) to get approval...

Just wondering from you guys if this is the procedure or not, as im scared that ill get declined and have to pay for the repairs myself.

Would you guys suggest i take it to an auto electician or a mechanic.

Also, would taking it to a Nissan dealership be better?

Sorry about all the questions, im very new to all this.

Im also located in Brisbane too, so if you guys can recommend me someone to take it to that would be great.

Thanks.

VNS 24 Mentor

VNS 24

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi Guys,

I just bought my 2003 v35 coupe last weekend (Will post pics of it up soon). And have now noticed that the drivers side door 90% of the time does not lock/unlock via the remote.

I wound the drivers window down and closed the door. when i press lock/unlock on the remote, i can see the door lock on the inside move a couple of milimeters.

I've read up on this and it seems that it is a common issue with these cars.

I bought the car from a dealer and it is still under the 3-month statutory warrenty. This is the first time i've bought a car from a dealer, so i've never claimed warrenty.

I rang up my dealer and he said to take the car to an auto electrician or a mechanic and get a quote from them to fix it, and because of i have statutory warrenty, they're suppose to fax the quote off to the warrenty place (national warrenty company) to get approval...

Just wondering from you guys if this is the procedure or not, as im scared that ill get declined and have to pay for the repairs myself.

Would you guys suggest i take it to an auto electician or a mechanic.

Also, would taking it to a Nissan dealership be better?

Sorry about all the questions, im very new to all this.

Im also located in Brisbane too, so if you guys can recommend me someone to take it to that would be great.

Thanks.

Hi mate, congrats on your purchase of your V35.

Yes, the window/door lock issues are some of the common problems on the V35, and it often happen every 2-3 years depending on the usage of the car. The procedure you mentioned of going to an auto electrician or a mechanic, getting the quote and faxing it to the warranty company sounds like a right procedure. My suggestion, in your case, is to fix it quickly before the warranty runs out.

Are you sure you only got 3 months warranty time frame? I bought mine from a dealer in Perth and I took up 3 years warranty time frame. Also, my dealer got a car service centre together with the show room so they already have auto electricians and mechanics. So when I had my window/door problems, I just went to them. They fixed it up, gave me a warranty slip with all the details in it, and I send it off to the warranty company through post.

Good luck with it. Let us know how it goes.

Edited by Victor.T
jjjones Enthusiast

jjjones

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi mate, congrats on your purchase of your V35.

Yes, the window/door lock issues are some of the common problems on the V35, and it often happen every 2-3 years depending on the usage of the car. The procedure you mentioned of going to an auto electrician or a mechanic, getting the quote and faxing it to the warranty company sounds like a right procedure. My suggestion, in your case, is to fix it quickly before the warranty runs out.

Are you sure you only got 3 months warranty time frame? I bought mine from a dealer in Perth and I took up 3 years warranty time frame. Also, my dealer got a car service centre together with the show room so they already have auto electricians and mechanics. So when I had my window/door problems, I just went to them. They fixed it up, gave me a warranty slip with all the details in it, and I send it off to the warranty company through post.

Good luck with it. Let us know how it goes.

Hi Victor,

Thanks for your reply. I was told by me dealer that statutory warranty covers the 3months after i purchase the car. He basicly said that if the car does not work as Nissan intended it to within the 3 months, they have to fix it at their own cost and that it was part of the law (not sure if he was blowing smoke up my ass or not). I also have 5 years extended warranty on the car aswell (with national warranty company).

Im not sure what the difference is with statutory warranty and extended warranty.

But i guess ill just ring around a few places and get quotes on how much to fix this. Quick question though, did you have to pay for the fix and then the warranty reimbursed you or did the warranty company pay for it all first.

Cheers for your help mate.

VNS 24 Mentor

VNS 24

Posted
Posted

Hi Victor,

Thanks for your reply. I was told by me dealer that statutory warranty covers the 3months after i purchase the car. He basicly said that if the car does not work as Nissan intended it to within the 3 months, they have to fix it at their own cost and that it was part of the law (not sure if he was blowing smoke up my ass or not). I also have 5 years extended warranty on the car aswell (with national warranty company).

Im not sure what the difference is with statutory warranty and extended warranty.

But i guess ill just ring around a few places and get quotes on how much to fix this. Quick question though, did you have to pay for the fix and then the warranty reimbursed you or did the warranty company pay for it all first.

Cheers for your help mate.

You are welcome, mate.

Sorry I wouldn't know the differences between statutory and extended warranty. For me, the warranty covers and pays for it (All I have to do is send through the warranty paper slip with details in it from my warranty book by post to the warranty company). Of course it only covers for mechanical and electrical problems, not drivetrain or performance part of the car. :P

Let me know if you want more information from me. Good luck again.

ironpaw Veteran

ironpaw

Posted
Posted (edited)

have a read here:

http://www.fairtradi...ed-vehicles.htm

Stat warranty is different to the 3 yr/5 yr warranty you get from car yards.

If I were you I'd take in to them and have them arranged to fix it. They shouldn't have to get approval or what ever bullshit he's feeding you. The dealership should be fixing this - not claiming from there "national warranty" crap.

If they give you any grief then call QLD Fairtrading....but ask the dealership nicely 1st after you've done your research.

See here:

http://www.fairtrading.qld.gov.au/real-story-car-warranty.htm

The dealer should be arranging this....

Edited by ironpaw
jjjones Enthusiast

jjjones

Posted
  • Author
Posted

have a read here:

http://www.fairtradi...ed-vehicles.htm

Stat warranty is different to the 3 yr/5 yr warranty you get from car yards.

If I were you I'd take in to them and have them arranged to fix it. They shouldn't have to get approval or what ever bullshit he's feeding you. The dealership should be fixing this - not claiming from there "national warranty" crap.

If they give you any grief then call QLD Fairtrading....but ask the dealership nicely 1st after you've done your research.

See here:

http://www.fairtradi...ar-warranty.htm

The dealer should be arranging this....

Cheers mate, i thought so. It seems like the dealer is trying to palm me off to the extended warranty. Ill ring them up and let them know.

Strangely enough though. I've been testing the lock/unlocking with the fob today and it has worked fine all day...

There isnt some sort of "safety" feature on these cars are there? where if i pressed lock, the car wouldnt lock unless i leave it alone for a certain period of time?

When i was testing it last night, i would lock it, check the handle straight after and it wasnt locked.

Im guessing its an intermittent problem, would rather have it replaced now then later when my stat warranty runs out.

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted (edited)

It sounds to me like they might be trying to dodge the repair, to save themselves some cash. :whistling:

Stay on them, anything within that 3 month period must be fixed at the DEALERS expense. Hopefully they'll come through for you, sometimes they try it on; to see if you know the rules. Shouldn't happen, but it's human nature to take the easy out for some...

Also remember most extended warranties will only cover to a certain dollar value on most repairs, so you may be hit with a bill at the end. Read the policy carefully before claiming, sometimes, you can be better off to have the repairs done yourself, by your own mechanic rather than pay full freight, plus "warranty policy" mark up on parts...

It can also be very hard to prove a repair is warranted on "intermitttent" faults. They may claim it never played up while they have it, but you'll have it fail as soon as you get it back.

Edited by Daleo
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Shifting questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I might have to say it.
    • dbm7
      Shifting questions

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Ahh... it's an early RE5R01A box, that means the pinouts I gave are wrong (they were for the RE4R01A 4-speed box)... I'll have to dig around in my docs to see if I've got that schematic (they used the same gearbox plug, with the vacant pin wired to the direct drive clutch solenoid)...prolly hidden away in a supplement somewhere... ...there were 3 variants of the RE5R01A ~ this early schema was what we called the 'dumb' 5 speed ; it's what jatco called a 'medium duty' box, with torque holding up roughly ~200ft/lbs or so, which was good for NA from RB20/25DE and up to around VG30 output spec. With the RB25DET (and VG33/35 mills), the only options they had was the 4-speed 4AX00 box, which had been beefed up to handle the extra torque (primarily for the VG35, but it also suited the RB25DET mill and others)...and the RE4R03 box in large 4WDs a lot of the time... ...the next variant of 5-speed was redesigned, stronger, and 'smart'...first ones had external TCU with internal (on valvebody) Shift Control Unit, pressure switches, and 2 x TSS...and the last ones had internal TCU+SCU setup, with CANbus control etc etc. @DRoc81 On the RHS of the box towards the rear, there should be a stamped silver ID tag -- what's the model number? Oh...and with the early 5-speeds, the torque converter control solenoid assembly should be replaced as well (31940-60X00)...it's a bit Murphy's Law ....if one has failed, bet on the rest not being far behind ...
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Never ending fuel pump drama

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      I remembered wrong, but was close though 1Kz setting because those Jaycar SSRs don't go any faster, 1x pump per SSR with flyback diodes & heatsinks. In saying that, the heatsinks are overkill. Just on an alloy plate is more than sufficient. You'll find without a flyback diode, your SSRs will heat up big time and also die prematurely.  I've been running the two same SSRs since the last motor, no issues, car does 2 hour straight drives in summer once in a while and gets punished on the track. Nothing melts, no hot messes, etc.    
    • GTSBoy
      rb25 Degreeing cams with hydraulic lifters?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Hmm. You're probably best off working out what the lobe centreline or even the LSA is for the stock cams, with VCT OFF. That's bound to be out there somewhere. Then, work on the assumption that the Kelford centreline is probably the same, and wouldn't be more than a couple of degrees away, if it is different at all. I'm very surprised that you needed to adjust the exhaust cam by 5° to get it on spec. That screams there's another problem somewhere. Anything from the belt being 1 tooth off (how many degrees is one tooth worth?) to simple user/measurement error on the degree wheel. I say this because Kelford, like most quality cam manufacturers these days, does a pretty good job of actually making the cams to spec, not relying on patching it up afterwards like we had to do back in the 80s.
    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Besides packing it, you can also fill your pump through the oil filter inlet port. After cranking for what felt like an eternity without pressure, i fed a tube in through there and filled it with oil. Cranked for a few seconds after that and had pressure. 
×
×
  • Create New...