Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Stagea year 2000 Turbo ..

1) is satgea a good car?

2) How is da handling and braking?

3) any know problems with this car?

4) becoz it has 4WD system ...just wondering if i put bigger offset wheels for da rears and small offsets for fronts (i know we can put different offsets for EVO's but not sure abt stageas...

Thanks in advance :thanks:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/347616-stagea-help/
Share on other sites

Stagea year 2000 Turbo ..

1) is satgea a good car?

2) How is da handling and braking?

3) any know problems with this car?

4) becoz it has 4WD system ...just wondering if i put bigger offset wheels for da rears and small offsets for fronts (i know we can put different offsets for EVO's but not sure abt stageas...

Thanks in advance :thanks:

1. Yeah the Stagea is a very good car. It's a bit on the heavy side but still a very nice car. A 2000 Model car is the Series 2 that has the NEO motor installed. you will get alot bang for your buck when it comes to upgrades/mods.

2. IMO Due to the weight the car has and the distribution of it, The handling is it's not it's greatest thing in the world. on standard height, the front end will want to float at high speeds. Get some good coilovers and it will help (check the suspension thread on here). The brakes are pretty good but if you want people tend to upgrade to R33 disc and calipers (check the Stagea Brakes thread)

3. Check the "Buyer's Guide - The Nissan C34 Stagea" thread and that will answer all your questions

4. I'm not sure on this one. I think you can't as the ATESSA system will start freaking out but one of the guys on here will be able to tell you

Do you have a pic of a the car you're looking at??

Edited by BigDirtyJase
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/347616-stagea-help/#findComment-5592434
Share on other sites

Hi, S2 is good car ,

handling there are lot`s you can do, Brake`s just need sloted rotor`s Brake Stopper,Braided line`s ,no need to waste MONEY ON 4 POT`S.

LOT`S of Bargin`s about,

Wheel off set is your call, but all shoud be same Size over all .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/347616-stagea-help/#findComment-5592489
Share on other sites

R33 brakes do not fit series 2 Stagea. You will need R34 brakes. Get slotted R34 rotors while you're there.

As above, coilovers (10kg front 8kg rear) and bigger sway bars will sort the handling.

Then fit a 2530 turbo, Nistune, zorst and you can get 200awkw with a good tuner.

:thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/347616-stagea-help/#findComment-5592506
Share on other sites

Depends what you want to do with the Stagea.

1. They are definitely NOT a race car.

2. You don't have to change the turbo to get 200 Awkw.

3. You will have to have an afermarket tunable ECU or piggy back and boost it to 10psi.

4. No big probs with them, except rust under the side mirrors.

5. Std brakes are OK unless you are going to race it. If so change fluid, Braided lines, and stopper as Chuckie says.

6. I did 3 fast laps on Wanneroo raceway before the std brakes start fading, but then they went quickly, mostly a fluid problem.

7. The diameter (rolling circumference) of the tyres must be the same front & rear.

You can offer me $17000 on mine.......

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/347616-stagea-help/#findComment-5592769
Share on other sites

Just for the record r33 calipers and rotors fit a s2 stages, I have them fitted. Please read brakes section for how to. Try do make a he'll of a difference to the performance too

R33 brakes do not fit series 2 Stagea. You will need R34 brakes. Get slotted R34 rotors while you're there.

As above, coilovers (10kg front 8kg rear) and bigger sway bars will sort the handling.

Then fit a 2530 turbo, Nistune, zorst and you can get 200awkw with a good tuner.

:thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/347616-stagea-help/#findComment-5595788
Share on other sites

Stagea year 2000 Turbo ..

1) is satgea a good car?

2) How is da handling and braking?

3) any know problems with this car?

4) becoz it has 4WD system ...just wondering if i put bigger offset wheels for da rears and small offsets for fronts (i know we can put different offsets for EVO's but not sure abt stageas...

Thanks in advance :thanks:

1. satgea? unsure. stagea? yes.

2. braking could be better. handling is pretty good for a wagon, but plenty of room for improvement there also.

3. rust under passenger mirror. otherwise, no.

4. you may have trouble with this. ATTESA can be a bit fussy. just put the same size on all 4 - surely that's not too big a limitation.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/347616-stagea-help/#findComment-5596052
Share on other sites

Not only can there be rust under the mirrors but if the JDM owner(s) lived in a place where salt is used on the roads you can find rust in other areas,

Look at the undersides and check all the cad plated bits, this will give you a good idea.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/347616-stagea-help/#findComment-5596185
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
×
×
  • Create New...