Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If your that excited maybe just read through the thread.

The t67 with 10cm rear that Simon is running would be a great turbo for an RB30 although you will make more than 310rwkw pretty easily. Will you be running an aftermarket manifold and external wastegate?

I read the thread, got a tad confused with which model you were all talking about. just wanted reassurance on which one I'll be getting.

Will definitely be running an ext. gate, I'd love to low mount it on the stock manifold but from the looks of it I'll have to make a high mount manifold.

The stock manifold is not compatible with the turbo Simon is running.

The power he is getting exceeds the limit of the factory manifold and the turbo is too large to bolt on. You will need an aftermarket item like a 6boost or similar.

I'm not chasing as much power as Simon nor will I be using as much boost.

I would honestly be happy with 260kw.

But since these turbo's are all roughly the same price and I havn't started building the car yet, I may as well go big seeing as I haven't bought/made any of the supporting mods yet (injectors exhaust etc.)

what?

If you only want 260kw then get something smaller....

Hi there,

Could someone shed some light on these 3 turbos?

2.4

3.0

3.0W

I'm looking for a turbine for my GTST ... the turbos all have T3 flange, but the exhaust side is 5-bolt, not 6-bolt .. so it might not be a drop in replacement.

Also 2 of the turbines are only oil cooled ..

I have no idea of the boost response, so it's a bit of a shot in the dark ;)

I'm not chasing as much power as Simon nor will I be using as much boost.

I would honestly be happy with 260kw.

Then get yourself a hypergear ATR43SS-2 or an ATR43G2 or even a G3

It will cost you comething like 1500, then you will need another couple of hundred dollars work to get it to bolt up. Get the supporting mods and you will have a setup that will make the power you want with as little hassle as possible and net great results.

The kando turbos are for people doing $5000+ turbo installs who would rather spend 800 for good performing turbos rather than $2000 on a garrett. The total cost is still going to be ALOT more than what else is available.

Consider:

Turbo 800

Manifold 1300 (new 6boost)

Custom dump 400 minimum

Wastegate 300 minimum

Custom metal intake 200

Custom hotside cooler pipe 150

Custom lines 150

Compare to hypergear'ing a R33:

turbo 900-1500 depending on what spec you want

exhaust utilies same position and bolt pattern as stock, so use whatever uve got at the moment (1000 will get you a turbo back system, if you have a catback then budget 360 for a bellmouth dump and 3" cat @180ea)

Custom metal intake 200

90 degree silicon joiner and a piece of pipe 50

The turbo would be on the car and running for the above cost. You could even just send him your stock turbo and get something back that will do 260rwkw NO WORRIES. Bolt it back in as it came out, as long as you have the supporting mods you just saved yourself the 3or so grand it costs to bolt one of the basic Kando turbos to your car.

It should be well known that while these turbos are fk'ing great, they are not bolt on items and will cost a fking packet to get on properly. The turbos themselves are excellent value for money, but thats only if you are comparing them to installing another external gate turbo, period.

Hypergear really does take care of most sub 300rwkw applications for an EXCELLENT price.

Hypergear really does take care of most sub 300rwkw applications for an EXCELLENT price.

Agreed!

why cant you bolt the kando turbo onto stock manifold?

10mm spacer plate

adapt a 44/50mm external gate to exhaust housing and your done.

This was my original plan but it would need a lot bigger than a 10mm spacer as the compressor cover is fairly big. For me it was just easier and not that much more expensive just to run a 6boost manifold!

When you factor in the costs of long studs, specialized welding to exhaust housing, extra gaskets, the spacer itself etc etc it all adds up.

This was my original plan but it would need a lot bigger than a 10mm spacer as the compressor cover is fairly big. For me it was just easier and not that much more expensive just to run a 6boost manifold!

When you factor in the costs of long studs, specialized welding to exhaust housing, extra gaskets, the spacer itself etc etc it all adds up.

Exactly!

Plus your turbo out flows the factory manifolds effective limit.

If you went for the 20g-sl2 kando turbo, you could do what is being suggested and could potentially have HKS2835 like results, but hey you could spend a shit load less on a hypergear and still be doing pretty good and VERY stealthy.

Have we seen the recent addition to the kando range? A TD06SL2-25G 10cm T3 with surge ported compressor cover.... small trim 61mm turbine with small trim 78mm compressor, surge porting indicates we could have some SPOOL on our hands.... Anyone game to try a 3076R killer? Would need to be gated is the only downside :(

Have we seen the recent addition to the kando range? A TD06SL2-25G 10cm T3 with surge ported compressor cover.... small trim 61mm turbine with small trim 78mm compressor, surge porting indicates we could have some SPOOL on our hands.... Anyone game to try a 3076R killer? Would need to be gated is the only downside :(

That is the same wheels as my T67-25g 10cm but with water cooling and a anti-surge front cover...

So I wouldn't imagine much of a difference at all expect only a 3" inlet instead of a nice 4"

That is the same wheels as my T67-25g 10cm but with water cooling and a anti-surge front cover...

So I wouldn't imagine much of a difference at all expect only a 3" inlet instead of a nice 4"

The SL2 wheel is apparently the same wheel but cropped to 61mm instead of yours which is 67mm.

Sort of like the 30R that gets cropped to the 2835.

I'm a fabricator so I'd be making all of the custom pieces myself. so manifold/exhaust/intake/piping etc. is not really a problem....just a time thing.

But I'd like to retain the stock manifold if at all possible (with the new TD06SL2-25G 10cm T3 maybe?). I've made a mild steel manifold before but the time/effort/pain is too much.

I said I'd be happy with 260kw as in worst case scenario.

I'm a fabricator so I'd be making all of the custom pieces myself. so manifold/exhaust/intake/piping etc. is not really a problem....just a time thing.

But I'd like to retain the stock manifold if at all possible (with the new TD06SL2-25G 10cm T3 maybe?). I've made a mild steel manifold before but the time/effort/pain is too much.

I said I'd be happy with 260kw as in worst case scenario.

No two ways about it if you ask me, you are wasting your time with this turbo unless you get a manifold for it.

If that's how it has to be, I'll keep it in mind when I'm buying all the bits (turbo included). Thanks for the advice mate

No worries, its just that it significantly outflows the factory manifold... So running it within the limits of the factory manifold will get you sub standard results.

You would be better off with a turbo that suits the factory manifold and reap the benefits of added spool and response. Going interal gate also saves you a packet and isnt as cop bait.

There was some talk that the TD06SL2-20G 10cm T3 would be awesome for sub 300rwkw application but even then you need to plumb a gate and it starts to become questionable just how much better it might be than a hypergear bolt on item..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, thumbsup from me. The distant shot of the bay just looks same-same as before.
    • Dad had a court case drag out with them from 1998 to 2004. He was in a not at fault accident, NRMA were the ones who covered the other person. They tried to blame his neck injuries on the fact he'd had an injury in 1981 on his extreme lower back where he slipped a single disc right near the bottom. Had been all cleared from that injury for years. This accident destroyed his shoulder, and f**ked a heap of discs in his neck, and he still has major problems with it to this day. Sarah's sister while on her L plates had a small Suzuki Alto, she had stopped to give way to an ambulance, and someone changed lanes behind her because there lane was also slowing, and rear ended her at 80km/h. (She had been stopped for a few seconds already too!). Car was completely f**kED. NRMA sent the vehicle around to 3 different workshops as they kept claiming "We believe it can be repaired, and not written off, we just need to find the correct workshop". It took 3 months, and a lot of arguing before they'd concede and wrote it and paid out. About two years later her sister had a Lancer, someone pulled out of a stop sign without stopping (in an 80 zone). Her sister swerved, hit the front of the other persons car (Instead of dead t-boning the drivers door), which ramped her Lancer, and made it roll multiple times down the road. It hit every panel on the way through. Her sister had slid her self out of the car, and remembers the ambos walking to the accident (They'd been sitting at a set of lights just down the road and witnessed it) and they were saying "Well, this ones going to be a fatality, no way you can walk away from that". Well, she did. And then NRMA sent two assessors out to look at the car, both of which wrote it off. They tried to send another assessor out, except a HUGE uproar was raised, and they FINALLY paid it out. That was on a car, that had damage to EVERY panel, you could see from 100m away the whole car was also twisted, roof bowed etc. Nah, we'll try get out of needing to payout on a $10,000 car... Her sister ended up with major shoulder reconstructive surgery being required, and was permanently limited in her ability to do her job as a nurse after that, as she can't (And was told before surgery too this would be guaranteed to happen) regain full strength in that shoulder. However, there was no choice to not have it, as she could barely use her arm, which was her dominant one, and was in near constant major pain. (And she's the type of person that would try and walk off a broken leg!) NRMA did the biggest run around on the personal injury side too for about 18 months, even to the point of trying to put 100% blame of the accident on Sarah's sister, even though the other driver admitted she didn't look, and didn't stop, and was charged by the police. Sarah used to have a Barina insured with them. It was a policy setup, paid all 12 months in advance. At the end of the 12 months, Sarah was living with me, I reviewed the renewal, it clearly stated "If you do nothing, your policy will cease on XYZ date". We did nothing, as we moved her insurance in with all of mine and I was with Shannons. We find out 10 months later, NRMA decided, because he DAD had a car insurance policy at the same address as what Sarah's mailing address was (Garaged address had been changed), that they'd put Sarah's (What should have been non existent policy) onto her Dad's month to month charges on his credit card. We had to jump through hoops, to get a refund. They didn't care that we actually found the letter that said "If you do nothing, your policy will cease" they made us prove we had NON COMPULSORY insurance else where before they'd issue the refund, and after they agreed to the refund, it still took another 6 weeks and 3 more phone calls for them to actually process it. They also had two insurance claims from storm damage, and they were an absolute cluster to get resolved as well (one vehicle, one house). Some how, up until about 3 years ago, her parents were still loyal to NRMA too, and we were like "How the hell are you so loyal to staying with them, when other places are so much cheaper, and they've f**ked you over every time you've ever had to make a claim?"
    • I got the four AN10 fitting welded up to the cam covers and started up making the head to sump breather/drain lines. The front passenger side cover I used a 45 up top and a 90 at the bottom into the stock VCT head drain spot (3/4" BPST to AN10 adapter) thats unused on the RB25DET NEO with some speedflow flame shield to protect it from the manifolds heat.   back passenger side was a 90 up top with some flame shield and 45 at the sump end. The rear drivers is 45 at both ends   the front drivers fitting is capped off for now but ready to go if i want to try moving the breathers around. I was told by the fabricator to leave all the welds raw for now to make sure there are no pin hole leaks. A lot of cleaning up, re bundling looms and degreasing to go as well as final assembly on the cam cover baffles. The first real test will be 28th March at a Circuit event. added complexity and more spots for leaks but overall looks relatively neat imo
    • Yeah i think the dash needs to come out. To get the loom or maybe just climate control and radio cluster. My mirrors are done i think the motors don’t work so well after flood haha i need the ac fan, you said you wanted to keep it for your 31 and interior loom not including boot. The wiper motor. I’m not sure how good the window surrounds are on the exterior on the pintara.  I will message you to get your bank details shortly 
    • Just another barrier put up to stop cars being modified. When we're all driving Chinese sewing machines, you won't want to modify it anyway, and you'll likely already have slashed your wrists and be locked up in a padded room for your own protection.
×
×
  • Create New...