Kando Dynamics Turbo

[Lithium]

I considered using an OP6 rear end, probably the best option considering its a street car

This probably wouldn't be an aweful option...

http://store.forcedperformance.net/PROD/49178-04600.html

[STATUS]

If your willing to be clever, you can get a "T518Z" from kando for 700 bucks. TD05H-18G in an SR20 bolt on form (internal gate) which is the trust style item. As mentioned above, strong results on SR's. I dont think you would need a 10cm housing for the said unit, however the clever part is what you will do about it being T2 based. See if that dudes RB20 with bolt on adapter works out and that will tell you if this combo will also work. That would meet and exceed what you are describing above.

However, be it myself I would probably look to work with what ive got.. If its an RB20 turbo you should be able to go to a R33 2IU rear housing for a MINOR increase in AR. Pick up a dud housing and have HG grind it out to the right size for you. Thats likely to be what I would do, that or an OP6 rear housing with your existing working unit.

8cm for 220-240

10cm for 250-280

[Rolls]

8cm for 220-240

10cm for 250-280

How much would the power band change between the 2 do you think? 3k vs 3.5k? would they both hold until redline?

[GTScotT]

8cm for 220-240

10cm for 250-280

For which set turbo? Sorry to be a pain as I think specifics are important.

From what I know and believe power is directly related to flow, so an SR making 440ps from an 8cm housing should be equal for the same turbo doing it on an RB. The displacement changes at what RPM intervals it can do it at and can be what makes it nose dive over in the top RPM. A good comparo for me is the GTRS, where it makes similar power from RB to SR (as it is the same turbo) but with the said difference in character.

The problem I see when comparing motors is the motors own efficiency at the said RPM when it will max out the turbo. It may just not have the flow in itself to let the turbo shine, and may cause it to nose dive even harder.

The reason I picked on the above is because SR's do a lot more than 240kw on an 8cm rear, and people here are obviously exceeding 280kw with a 10cm. Even Roy has 260 with an 8cm. The difference is obviously the turbine flow, thus my question to which specific turbo you refer.

[ARTZ]

@ rolls

the 10cm is .73, its the same as the T67 rear housing so it will definatly hold to redline and beyond.. It would be my choice if you wanted to upgrade on a 2.5l, an 8cm would be about the same size as the housing you have now, so I dont think it would be worth the efort changing it.. Remembering these ar ex gate as well...

Or are we talking SR here ?

[Rolls]

Yeah I am more just curious for the future, not set on upgrading just yet, might just stay with what I have as from a legality point it is win, passes regency without changing anything.

[ARTZ]

you can get the 10cm housing to fit a gt30 core as well, im very tempted to replace my 21u housing to see how much difference it will make..

What do you think it would get, extra 15kw maybe?

Would a 38mm gate be big enough on a rb25

[GTScotT]

@ rolls

the 10cm is .73, its the same as the T67 rear housing so it will definatly hold to redline and beyond.. It would be my choice if you wanted to upgrade on a 2.5l, an 8cm would be about the same size as the housing you have now, so I dont think it would be worth the efort changing it.. Remembering these ar ex gate as well...

Or are we talking SR here ?

Remember turbine flow changes the dynamic ability of a turbo. The garrett housings from GT30 to GT35 are actually the same item, just ground out to fit the bigger wheel. Now think why does a little 3076 struggle to make power and have overheating problems etc with the .63 yet a 35R isnt that bad with it? 35Rs will do a neat 330 with the .63, I see it often on toymods with people running 1JZ's.

you can get the 10cm housing to fit a gt30 core as well, im very tempted to replace my 21u housing to see how much difference it will make..

What do you think it would get, extra 15kw maybe?

Would a 38mm gate be big enough on a rb25

I think staying with the known working item is best mate. We know 44mm works with big flow and tight housings, and the price is said to be right for a TIAL 44mm, just go that unless you want to be super stinge and go 70 buck JJR 38mm lol. And hey I wouldnt argue for trying...

[ARTZ]

i can get a hks 38mm for a good price..

Plus the garrett wheel is almost identical in size so I dont think dynamics should change too much..add to that the ex gate should help hold boost through to redline and theoretically it should rev higher and maintain the same low down performance

i dunno but im just so damn curious...lol

housing 150$

gate 150$

fab a dump will be piss easy cause its a vband..50 to 100$..

If it got 20kw xtra and didnt fall over at 6k id be stoked...

[STATUS]

For which set turbo? Sorry to be a pain as I think specifics are important.

From what I know and believe power is directly related to flow, so an SR making 440ps from an 8cm housing should be equal for the same turbo doing it on an RB. The displacement changes at what RPM intervals it can do it at and can be what makes it nose dive over in the top RPM. A good comparo for me is the GTRS, where it makes similar power from RB to SR (as it is the same turbo) but with the said difference in character.

The problem I see when comparing motors is the motors own efficiency at the said RPM when it will max out the turbo. It may just not have the flow in itself to let the turbo shine, and may cause it to nose dive even harder.

The reason I picked on the above is because SR's do a lot more than 240kw on an 8cm rear, and people here are obviously exceeding 280kw with a 10cm. Even Roy has 260 with an 8cm. The difference is obviously the turbine flow, thus my question to which specific turbo you refer.

I was talking T518Z's.. which are td05. the 10cm t518z is the same response as a 8cm L2 with about 20 less top end kw.

[GTScotT]

i can get a hks 38mm for a good price..

Plus the garrett wheel is almost identical in size so I dont think dynamics should change too much..add to that the ex gate should help hold boost through to redline and theoretically it should rev higher and maintain the same low down performance

i dunno but im just so damn curious...lol

housing 150$

gate 150$

fab a dump will be piss easy cause its a vband..50 to 100$..

If it got 20kw xtra and didnt fall over at 6k id be stoked...

Man if you are going to do that just ditch the T04S thing and put that $150 towards the $750 killer replacement.

In the end if you are still not impressed with your above mentioned option, your next most economical option is to swap in a proper GT30 CHRA... $_$... Just get the SL2 with me.. We can tandem click buy it now! I'm ready to buy lol

[OMY31T]

Yes there is no doubt that E85 offers significant benefits, which was the basis of my question. Perhaps best answered by Trent - for a reasonably well sorted T67 25G (eg OMY31T or battery) running BP98 - what general benchmark have you seen or would you expect? E85 is not widely available in Qld so it's of interest.

i didnt get the 300rwkw power figures on bp98, i only made mid 250rwkw, but you have to take into consideration the power loss through the auto gearbox.

Trent... can u email me the dyno graphs from my runs, ill post them on here aswell. it would be good so i can compare them to when i bring the car back. i booked the car in to have the top intercooler pipe changed, when it comes back from the fabricators, ive got some stuff sorted(thanks Battery) to do a proper pressure test of my pipe work and intercooler. i think the actually FMIC is leaking and was loosing a bit of power though it last time, after further inspection it looks as though 1 of the bars is split, sigh. anyway, no doubt ill have it back in before christmas, and if i can find the cash(renovating house atm) ill get a new converter aswell.

if u can send them to [email protected] that would be awsome.

Edited June 27, 2011 by OMY31T

[toffy]

This thread now confuses me , i don't know wether to buy a td06sl2 or a t67

[SimonR32]

This thread now confuses me , i don't know wether to buy a td06sl2 or a t67

A T67 is another name for a TD06SL2 (they both refer to the same rear end), just to confuse you some more...

Think of a TD06SL2-20G as similar to a GT3071R and a T67-25G as a GT3076R!!!

Unless you are desperate for every tiny rpm of response I would suggest a T67-25G

[GTScotT]

This thread now confuses me , i don't know wether to buy a td06sl2 or a t67

We are yet to test the SL2 but it definitely looks promising. It wont be no 10 second turbo, like the T67, but it will make for a formidable street car.

The Idea behind the SL2 is to have a SUB 300kw car with AS MUCH midrange power with the widest band as possible.

First decide what you want, then pick the parts to do it.

[ARTZ]

its got nothing to with response, the tdo6sl2 has a smaller .6 compressor housing doesnt it, so it should low mount alot easier and work better with the standard manifold.. Tis the only reason I wanted it over the t67..

[GTScotT]

lol and your reason for wanting the low mount?

If you want the T67 power, then get the T67 power lol.

Here is the packaging constraint version:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-3-Anti-Surge-TD06S-25G-T3-V-Band-/290581425241?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43a800ac59

Buy it now?

[SimonR32]

its got nothing to with response, the tdo6sl2 has a smaller .6 compressor housing doesnt it, so it should low mount alot easier and work better with the standard manifold.. Tis the only reason I wanted it over the t67..

That is a horrible reason for turbo selection!

[ARTZ]

doesnt work that way that turbo has proven to not so successful. As i said its too much power on a stock mani..

Of course i would like t67 power but itstoo many extra coat and i would like my engine to last so 260ish would be fine..now seeing as im going smaller may as well trade some power for response. So while it may not have the ultimate top end of the t67 it should be better everywhere else..

[SimonR32]

lol and your reason for wanting the low mount?

If you want the T67 power, then get the T67 power lol.

Here is the packaging constraint version:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-3-Anti-Surge-TD06S-25G-T3-V-Band-/290581425241?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43a800ac59

Buy it now?

Nice, I was going to search for one like that but you have saved me the trouble