Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

T67-25G uses the same L2 turbine wheel as the TD06L2-20G

TD06H-25G uses a 67/58.8mm 11 blade turbine wheel

the TD06H-25 is very similar to a Garrett GT3576 in size with only a couple of mm in it.

compare that to the 61/54.1mm turbine wheel of the L2/T67

now there are a bucket load of variations of the MHI turbos such as what MHI call the Super 20G or the TE06, all very similar, but different enough to cause headaches when buying from the likes of kando, the the shaft sizes and wheel trims vary

eg Kando sell a T67-24V a TE06H-25G etc, even sell the Large 67mm turbine wheel equipped turbo fitted with a 20G compressor.

So be wary, and ask before handing over your cash.

check my TD06 thread for more info re: wheel sizing etc

Ok I understand now the t67 has the l2 turbine but a 25g compressor correct

Yes.

Greddy called it a T67, as effectively it is a TD07S and a TD06L2 joined together using the 4" inlet TD07S comp cover with the L2 turbine housing and centre section...kinda like a Garrett T3/T4

25G/20G/24V/18G etc is the compressor wheel

Fark it...i am selling all my mitsu fluff and going KKK K27s etc. Info on them is even more confusing :whistling:

Do you want mine?

cbf going to get it, but iirc it is a 7200 11:11 with a #6 rear housing with a porsche flange pattern

LOL

ok so can someone confirm this if this is the correct TD06SL2-20G that i've bought *which is same as jez & artz*?

i hope its not the wrong one Lol

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/280776600350?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

ok so can someone confirm this if this is the correct TD06SL2-20G that i've bought *which is same as jez & artz*?

i hope its not the wrong one Lol

http://www.ebay.com....984.m1423.l2649

LOL its the right one man, good work.

Johnny B - go with tried and true man. In theory the water cooled one should work just as well but run cooler, but it comes with a smaller compressor cover and thus could be a lucky dip in terms of results. The T67 is a known performer, no guess work!

Stock manifold yes, don't understand why people r using the aftermaket manifolds for the TD06 turbos unless its for a T67 which fouls the engine cos its too big. What gate r u using dori, Tial?? Are you plumbing it off the turbo housing? Keep us posted....:thumbsup:

modded the stock manifold to suit 44mm v-band ext gate, running either a tial mvr or turbosmart hyper gate

tbh, i think after all the costs add up, it will be about the same price if not cheaper than a HG unit fitted.

turbo with lines (can sell for $$ if not needed) $740

gate $300

modded manifold $220

dump + screamer $150

intake $150

= $1560~ (say $1650 for gaskets/bolts/nuts/studs etc)

HG turbo on its own is $1500 + delivery + custom intake + either use OEM lines (needs massaging to fit) or need braided stuff ($$), fk around with the dump/front pipe issue melting the aircon hose.

Ur right, thats what I figured out - Putting together THIS stuff is about the same or cheaper than the HG ss stuff, the HG turbo on its own is $1500 + GST = $1650 = ouch, I just burnt a large hole in my pocket for a turbo only...

Whereas with this one, if ur not happy with the turbo, u can always get another spec turbo or parts (diff wheels / housing etc, as kando sell a wide range of this stuff for cheap) for approx $700 and ur sailing ...!

What do u guys think??

And where did u get the 44mm Tial for $300 - the cheapest on eGay is $365 + delivery = approx $400

People car do things for all different costs, some cheaper some end up paying more.

I dare say since these setups work so well you would be best to spend the few extra dollars and making the setup 100%. Using some high temp sheathing on lines, good quality bends and reducers/flanges studs etc so you dont blow out gaskets etc or warp with temp.

A gate for $300? I paid about $500 for my Turbosmart. I paid more then $150 in just flanges, studs, gaskets and elbows + reducer. So not saying anyone was wrong but we all often pay different prices for things and I know i couldnt do my setup with external gate that cheaply

med_gallery_462_50_238480.jpg

Tial MVR is the go Dori, proven performer. Also not sure where to get it under $400 or I would LOL

Ron your comments are all well and good, but please make sure you have a firm understanding of the setup you are describing and how it works before you attempt to undertake such a move.

Make sure you have your labour aspect of things well sorted and know the implications of a screamer (if you opt to go that way) or how standout your setup will be to NSW highway patrol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is there a way to adjust all of the pedals in an R32 GTS-T? they all sit even, but seem to be a little high for my liking.
    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
×
×
  • Create New...