Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's a shame you bought the wrong VQ to turbo Simonster, the 3.5 has weak rods to help with the 8k rev limit, you will have to rebuild the sucker first unfortunately (unless you are happy with 4-5psi?)

The factory turbo engines are the ones to go for, the VQ30det's are the cheapest option and with no adjustable cams they are the easiest to get running. I believe they may have Nistune working on the stock ecu too. This engine should be good for 400-450wkw unopened.

I disagree- DE's are the weaker version. The HR is a completely different animal essentially a redesign, it's much better. The HR rod is much stronger.

I've spent the last month+ talking to tuners and guys running them in the US and I'm happy with what i've got. I think it'll surprise a lot of people.

Running E85 and a special version of the Haltech, she'll do it very, very easily. :cheers:

That's good, it means you know what you're getting yourself into. I hope you get better support from Haltech than I got. lol.

You should be fine with the high compression and e85 but lets hope the rods handle the extra torque from that alone. It will surprise a few people that's for sure.

What boost are you looking to push through the TD05's? They should be good for well over 500kw right? External gate I assume? Start a build thread on it so we don't hog the Kando thread.

I disagree- DE's are the weaker version. The HR is a completely different animal essentially a redesign, it's much better. The HR rod is much stronger.

I've spent the last month+ talking to tuners and guys running them in the US and I'm happy with what i've got. I think it'll surprise a lot of people.

Running E85 and a special version of the Haltech, she'll do it very, very easily. :cheers:

Flicked through a few of the US fourms, and found a result of 490rwhp on a HR on 11 or 12 psi. Then again one failed in Melb on 270rwkw.

Choose your people wisely and it'll be great. +1 on the build thread. Some serious fabrication going to go into it

:cheers:

Lol... just found your thread on my350z

Edited by PN-Mad

Choose your people wisely and it'll be great. +1 on the build thread. Some serious fabrication going to go into it

:cheers:

Lol... just found your thread on my350z

Jesus, that was quick :whistling:

Yes i'll start one if people are interested.

Edited by Simonster

Will be interesting to see the curve with VCT working as it looks fairly lazy (for the turbo size) but fook me that top end is very impressive considering the boost

Definately. I have not done any low down tuning with this thing yet. Is just as rich on boost build up as it is on full boost which once optimized should be even better.

Then im keen to go to the drags :D

you searched kando didnt you..try search Kinugawa :thumbsup:

http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l2736&_nkw=kinugawa

Yes, yes i did :blush:

Teach me for trying to do my shopping straight after night shift haha.

Anyone had the rear off their Kando lately?

Had mine off today and noticed what looked like tiny cracks in between some of the fins. I could not feel them with my finger but they didn't rub off either...

post-22242-0-04897000-1333788590_thumb.jpg

Had some issues with melting silicon so copied simon and got a elbow welded on :)

Mate just got a TIG and this was his first cast ally weld, not great haha..

post-22242-0-63843900-1333788656_thumb.jpg

Tell him not to clean with an angle grinder or wire brush.

It impregnated the alloy with all sorts of crap.

If it needs any type of grinding then use a dedicated alloy sanding disk (not a flap wheel they are as bad as grinding discs)

Also recommend he try's cleaning with Albright for any type of "used" alloy then a wipe down with general purpose thinners.

The welds incosistant but it looks like he was struggling to control the heat in some places.

Tell him not to clean with an angle grinder or wire brush.

It impregnated the alloy with all sorts of crap.

If it needs any type of grinding then use a dedicated alloy sanding disk (not a flap wheel they are as bad as grinding discs)

Also recommend he try's cleaning with Albright for any type of "used" alloy then a wipe down with general purpose thinners.

The welds incosistant but it looks like he was struggling to control the heat in some places.

thanks man ill pass that on... we used a flapper disc to take it back cause the first pass was rubbish.

yeah, been waiting to see if they start falling apart ..how many ks you done on it now...

Picked up new clutch today...now I just need to find my motivation :happy:

Fark all maybe 8000ks. May just be manufacturing marks but i don't remember seeing them when i put it on, will have a closer look tomorrow.

Edited by battery

Best I could do with my iphone..

post-22242-0-50990500-1333865443_thumb.jpg

had a closer look today and you can feel it with your finger nail, almost every fin has a similar crack to this in the same place although the one in the pic was the biggest.

Will send Mr kando an email and see what he thinks..

Edited by battery

Hopefully they replace or send out billet wheel

That pic is of the exhaust wheel and they don't make billet versions of those. The comp side looks brand new.

Well if you can feel it then you've answered your question.

What turbo is this from- have you been running it particularly hard?

Could just be a manufacturing defect. Hopefully you get a good result from Eiji.

T67-25G 20psi max, mainly street so nothing super intense.

Emailed him earlier, will be interesting to see his reply.

Edited by battery

may i draw everones attention to the rb25 dyno thread, jez has cracked 300 @ 17psi and no vct.

with vct it should be a different animal all together, not to mention stretching the compressor flow to its limits. i dare say jez will give mick a real run for his money when its done. from memory theyare shapping up quite similar up top, boost for kw that is.

now, begin!

may i draw everones attention to the rb25 dyno thread, jez has cracked 300 @ 17psi and no vct.

with vct it should be a different animal all together, not to mention stretching the compressor flow to its limits. i dare say jez will give mick a real run for his money when its done. from memory theyare shapping up quite similar up top, boost for kw that is.

now, begin!

Did you miss the last page? :nyaanyaa:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...