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Kando Dynamics Turbo


SimonR32

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U are spot on. Thats why i try to convince most customers to do everything at once then to keep adding parts that require a retune. Costs more up front but saves alot down the track

Hence why it has taken me 2 years to finish my damn car, because i KEPT adding to it.... :P BUT overall it will be worth it once its all tuned....

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So if u were to run 15psi Jez how much would u expect it to creep ?

22 was with gate flap open no boost controll not even worth the hassle

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So if u were to run 15psi Jez how much would u expect it to creep ?

As BSA said. This was the minimum boost we

Could run which means no boost controller at all. We even held the wastegate flap open and it still climbed past 22psi

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Except when the minimum boost it will run is 18psi. Ask Mitcho. I dont feel its safe to try max the injectors out and leave them running like that.

there are plenty of successful highflows running 15psi or less mate, cmon........

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Except when the minimum boost it will run is 18psi. Ask Mitcho. I dont feel its safe to try max the injectors out and leave them running like that.

Yeh, it's a bit of a lucky dip with the actuator you get with the HG turbos. I asked for a 14psi several times but on the dyno it wouldn't run any less than 18psi like Jez mentioned. I dont know if there's anyway to tell what actuator it is without it being on the dyno either, so you won't know til you get it tuned...

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Or 20 psi like I found haha

More boost the bigger the smile :D

The more tears long term as well maybe haha!

20 psi is probably fine though and it's not like you are hitting 20psi all day everyday either. It'd be for a couple of seconds max on the street. If you are at a track on full load for several laps or whatever then it might not be ideal for a stock engines longevity...

On a side note, birds made 250+rwkw on only 16psi with his ss1pu I think. So good numbers are possible without needing to run lots of boost.

Edited by Mitcho_7
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The more tears long term as well maybe haha!

20 psi is probably fine though and it's not like you are hitting 20psi all day everyday either. It'd be for a couple of seconds max on the street. If you are at a track on full load for several laps or whatever then it might not be ideal for a stock engines longevity...

On a side note, birds made 250+rwkw on only 16psi with his ss1pu I think. So good numbers are possible without needing to run lots of boost.

Yeah we put birds results down to difference in dyno.

Or he has a healthy engine.

Jez warned me about tracking the car on 20psi but I dont have plans to track it just yet.

When I do I will source a better quality actuator with say 14psi then bring it up using my ebc

Anyways lol talking about hyper gear in kando thread.

Back on topic

What ever happened with the bloke and his cracked comp wheel?

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Cracked turbine wheel you mean.

Hes sending it back to Kando for repair and billet upgrade, Kando agreed to fix it for the cost of the comp wheel alone if he sent it back.

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lol thought I was in the HG thread for a second.

On a side note, birds made 250+rwkw on only 16psi with his ss1pu I think. So good numbers are possible without needing to run lots of boost.

Yer 258rwkw and 16psi from the SS1PU highflow, though interestingly, it was sitting at 15psi where it made peak power. There's definitely more in it too - my setup has also been said to have a lot of restrictions, though I do have quite a healthy engine. RacePace's dyno has never been said to read happy, however, Jez's could read low too.

In the end, screw figures, all that matters is whether it puts a smile on your face when you mash the pedal, and mine does :)

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Hey guys. I'm getting a td06sl2-25g. Just wondering is it work the risk of getting the anti surge housing. Or should I just stick to what works and get one without anti surge. Btw 10cm rear with a/r 0.60 comp housing

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Hey guys. I'm getting a td06sl2-25g. Just wondering is it work the risk of getting the anti surge housing. Or should I just stick to what works and get one without anti surge. Btw 10cm rear with a/r 0.60 comp housing

The general consensus here is to get the T67 instead. The specs of the wheels are the same, but the T67 uses a TD07 shaft which is thicker and stronger.

The T67 also has a .70 AR comp housing, which will effectively need less boost for the same levels of flow, and is an oil only turbo which makes it a bit neater to set up in the bay.

Go the T67 10cm!

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Nah I didn't mean 20g I meant 25g. I think it will be too laggy and a headache to fit low mount on standard manifold (0.70 a/r) which is what I want to do hence why I would like the 0.60. The only difference is the housing a/r and the shaft diameter which is only 8% smaller. I would like to see full boost before 4000 on around 18psi. I haven't seen a t67 reach full boost before 4000rpm on 98. I would be happy to be corrected as I could go a t67 with billet wheel.

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Mate the difference between a TD06SL2 and a T67 (in terms of performance) is only the difference in the comp cover.

That seriously wont effect spool like what you are imagining, its more so going to effect how much flow the compressor can give at what pressure ratio. And as stated the larger housing is going to need less pressure to flow the same amount. The spool difference is likely to be negligable.

Trying to fit it on the standard lowmount though, now your talking a different can of beans... And I suggest you consider a hypergear instead. Be it myself, I would rather a standard issue hypergear G3 than I would a T67 on a low mount. If you were to put a highmount into it I would then say Go the T67.

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I disagree that spoil difference is negligible. Unless negligible is 300rpm. A larger housing will take longer to compress air as its the same wheel filling a larger area. Regardless the question was with regards to the anti surge housing

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