Kando Dynamics Turbo

[GTScotT]

yeah, 226 pages later we have said plenty of times that the T3 internal gate kandos do not work. If you actually read the thread you will find results of ppl testing the iwg and that it sucked.

yes a 3071 is a good turbo, but just get a hypergear and save your money. Bolt with factory dump pattern.

an SS2 type B will be better than a 3071, based on specs.

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

this...

I have driven a 3071 Rb25 car (with a .86) and it was woeful to say the least and from what people say the .63 fails

admittedly i'm used to an HKS modified 3071 that is unbelevabley good.

IMHO go a smaller garret or ex gate

i just didn't feel the garrett 3071 was worth the money

[GTScotT]

I also think the cropped 3071 (HKS 2835) is an epic turbo for an RB. The delivery is brutal on an RB25, but I probably wouldnt go there on a 20. the bigger 60mm 3071 will be more responsive for the 20.

The Hyper Gear items are similar in spec to the garrett variants but Stao customizes the wheel sizes to be more application specific. The SS1PU and SS2 replace the 2871/GTRS and 3071 respectively, and is bolt on.

[427]

Mates, please advise: i have choice between Kando dynamics TD-06 20G and Hypergear 43 G. the cost of hypergear is bigger, but both of them are bolt on to the stock exhaust manifold.

could you tell me which turbo is better and why?

thanks

[petero'nell]

Hypergear is a bolton turbo, so it is far cheaper then Kando items counting installation costs. If you are comparing internal gate, stock manifold bolton performance its obvious that hypergear is a winner.Some of their latest billet turbos performed extremely well. They've released their billet version of TD06 SL2 20Gs that again appeared to be more responsive and punching out better no.s.

For a bolton turbo internally gated turbo for "Up to" 280rwkws I would definitly go for an hypergear item. Or if the decision is on a SL2 20G I would still go for a Hypergear's Billet 20G. for a 25G I probably go for a Kando item.

[GTScotT]

Put it this way, the kando internal won't work at all so you will need an external gate. By the time you pay 700 for a turbo and 400 for a gate, you are already nearing the cost of the HG. Then you still need to have your gate plumbed and dump pipe made which will cost over 500 easy.

you should make a responsive 260 on 98, 300 on E85.

Then you have the HG ss1pu. Complete bolt on, uses the factory dump pattern and all. no external gate, no dump pipes to be made. Just bolt on and make an intake pipe.

cost way less and still crack a responsive 250-270.

[battery]

So had my rust bucket on the dyno the other night...

Old setup here: http://www.skylinesa...ost__p__6010134

Added ID1000s, billet comp wheel, poncams and re did all the pipe work in 2.5" stainless(was a mix of 2.25/2.5 before)

Tried more boost but it didn't really do much, perhaps a restriction somewhere (runs 2.5" cooler piping, 3" exhaust and stock throttle body) AFM was at max also.

Forgot to grab an overplayed map but if you put them side by side it looks pretty similar apart from the extra 30kw up top thanks to the cams(boost was almost the same). Most noticeable difference is how ridiculously smooth the thing cruises around with the ID1000's over the High-flows!

I love how these thing feel like your entering warp speed over 6000rpm lol, wants to keep rising even at redline.

Not sure what to make of the billet wheel though, perhaps the cams lost a little down low and the wheel brought it back up?? I think Simon will have to give one a shot so we get a genuine back to back.

Edited October 4, 2012 by battery

[GTScotT]

Thats on boost nice and early and making a healthy power figure battery I like your setup under the bonnet too. Neat and well presented.

Based on Stao's billet 20g results, I would say the billet 25g is also an improvement. I think all those parts come from the same supplier anyhow. So my logic is if they could improve the 20g im sure they also improved the 25g.

And if its warp speed at 6, you should rev it to 9 LOL!

[SimonR32]

Well you didn't exactly go backwards anywhere...

Hard to tell what made the gains, probably a mixture of both the cams, piping and billet front wheel.

Must be happy anyway, I'm guessing it still hauls ass!

No billet love for me, but I'm going to be selling my Green 32 very soon (if anyone is interested in buying PM me)

Edited October 4, 2012 by SimonR32

[battery]

And if its warp speed at 6, you should rev it to 9 LOL!

Yeh Trent seemed to think it would get to 380-390kw if we upped the rev limit, but im lazy and I'd prefer to not have to swap in another engine if the thing went bang..

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

farkkk fap fap fap @ torque & power

[GTScotT]

Yeh Trent seemed to think it would get to 380-390kw if we upped the rev limit, but im lazy and I'd prefer to not have to swap in another engine if the thing went bang..

LOL i can understand the logic, dont worry.

I wonder if theres a way you could shift the powerband to the left... I guess VCT would make that hard because you dont have as much control over the intake cam.

[Josh_TypeX]

Well you didn't exactly go backwards anywhere...

Hard to tell what made the gains, probably a mixture of both the cams, piping and billet front wheel.

Must be happy anyway, I'm guessing it still hauls ass!

No billet love for me, but I'm going to be selling my Green 32 very soon (if anyone is interested in buying PM me)

No! Don't do it Simon!

PM sent..

[toffy]

So had my rust bucket on the dyno the other night...

Old setup here: http://www.skylinesa...ost__p__6010134

Added ID1000s, billet comp wheel, poncams and re did all the pipe work in 2.5" stainless(was a mix of 2.25/2.5 before)

Tried more boost but it didn't really do much, perhaps a restriction somewhere (runs 2.5" cooler piping, 3" exhaust and stock throttle body) AFM was at max also.

Forgot to grab an overplayed map but if you put them side by side it looks pretty similar apart from the extra 30kw up top thanks to the cams(boost was almost the same). Most noticeable difference is how ridiculously smooth the thing cruises around with the ID1000's over the High-flows!

I love how these thing feel like your entering warp speed over 6000rpm lol, wants to keep rising even at redline.

Not sure what to make of the billet wheel though, perhaps the cams lost a little down low and the wheel brought it back up?? I think Simon will have to give one a shot so we get a genuine back to back.

impressive result still , it knocks on the door of 200rwk at 3800rpm , why does it dip again for 100rpm?

[Dale FZ1]

you didn't exactly go backwards anywhere...

Hard to tell what made the gains, probably a mixture of both the cams, piping and billet front wheel.

I'm guessing it still hauls

I'd like to see an overlay. Might be wrong, but I couldn't see any significant differences at 4000, 5000, 6000, and 7000 rpm points although the shape of the curve between them may be slightly higher. I agree with Simon, it's obviously not gone backwards. But an overlay simply hightlights the advances.

The torque curve is showing a falling trend by 7000, and the bigger power number appears attributable more to a little kick in torque over the final 250rpm. Run under similar conditions with no other mechanical changes it would be hard to see the thing make the suggested power number simply through extra revs, but compromising your engine reliability would be a certainty at some point if you did.

All said, the result is certainly good, and dyno numbers can't be expected to convey the difference in feel as the engine runs through its speed and load ranges. Well done overall Battery, and I bet it does haul. Hope you intend tracking the car, not just dyno or 1/4 mile?

[Kane_R32]

So pulled my TD06 of today..

Exhaust Side;

Exducer: 66mm

Inducer: 59mm

Running off this site; http://website.lineone.net/~jon_ed/Turbo_Table.htm.

Does it look like I have a TD06SH-20G (factory internally gated)

[Roy]

Bugger, that is the big bad boy rear turbine. So not the smaller turbine that most people run on a 2L or people here are using on their T67 etc.

From what I can see on the Kando website they only do a T25 8cm housing for that turbine. So you still need to do an adaptor for T25 to T3....then still running the biggest turbine you can run in the TD06 range.

May be best to give that turbo the flick to an RB25 owner who wants punchy 260-280rwkws that hangs in there nicely in the higher rpm

[jet_r31]

I'd be interested to see how batterys results where with stock intake, and how it carries the revs up top with a stocker

cheers

darren

[jiri styles]

hey simon, what are you planing on doing next?

[SimonR32]

Bought myself a GTR, so I'm planning on going broke haha

Last weekend before I'm going to put it up for sale I've been playing at powercruise

Just to give people some idea how much abuse this consists of check this out

2 bar and 8900rpm Both were spikes but it still loves it

As far as reliability goes it's been nearly 2 years and the car has not had a single breakage since I put the RB25DET and Kinugawa turbo on.

Edited October 6, 2012 by SimonR32