Jump to content
SAU Community

Kando Dynamics Turbo


SimonR32

Recommended Posts

Yeah you can use the stock manifold on the smaller 20g, but he's right about the rest of it and the question was specifically asking for a 6 bolt option.

if you want a 6 bolt internal gate you will have to look at hypergear. even the 6 bolt 3076s have proven to suck compared to the full custom route.

so long story short if you want a good low hassle bolt on turbo you need to look at a hypergear.

anyone wanting something different or more custom for whatever reason can look into all the other options.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Has anyone used one of the Kinagawa actuators before? Specifically this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290784794658&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en#ht_1998wt_1414

And if so:

1) Are they any good?

2) I assume this would fit a GTX3071R (A/R .60 front cover)?

3) Is the top of the actuator rotatable so I can reposition the boost input to any direction I like?

Cheers! :cheers:

Justin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have one of those at home but am yet to use it. I will update that in a few weeks if you can wait.

Its actually a 2 port actuator, just ask Eiji for a second nipple as the thread is there.

You can undo the top and rotate it, yes.

It's a good quality item from what I can see. No issues from me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys, finally got my TD05-18G mounted. Just curious, both water inlet/outlets have an "upper" and "lower" ports for the banjo fittings. Are you able to mix and match which ones you bolt into? I.e use the upper for the inlet side of the water lines, and lower for the outlet? I didn't even think of this before bolting it all up.

P.S TD05-18G Ext Gate 8cm 100% won't bolt onto the stock manifold without atleast a 10cm spacer, and longer studs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys, finally got my TD05-18G mounted. Just curious, both water inlet/outlets have an "upper" and "lower" ports for the banjo fittings. Are you able to mix and match which ones you bolt into? I.e use the upper for the inlet side of the water lines, and lower for the outlet? I didn't even think of this before bolting it all up.

P.S TD05-18G Ext Gate 8cm 100% won't bolt onto the stock manifold without atleast a 10cm spacer, and longer studs.

did u mount urs to the stock manifold?how long were the studs u used?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah stock manifold, I wound out my studs 2-3 threads to give me enough thread for the nuts (8-9mm in thickness) to bolt down.

If I run into dramas later on then I will try replace them with ones about 10-15mm longer then standard/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

u cannot use the water ports for in and out on the one side of the block.

That CHRA is a copy of an MHI core which has 4 water ports.

On some models they come from factory using 2 ports from the same side.

If Mitsubishi fit em up like that from stock, I doubt they would agree that you cannot do it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does the return on the top only apply if both are on the one side?

No, the return needs to be at the top if possible, otherwise the turbo may fill with steam or just hold air in the pocket. I guess it depends on the setup though and how hard it's driven.

Just think of what would happen at the track, the turbo is red hot and will be for a while as you pull back in. The water is barely flowing at idle and if you turn the engine off there is no flow. In this case the water will turn to steam and it needs to go somewhere. It needs to get to the radiator cap to be purged from the system.

The steam and hot water can create water flow if done right using convection to cool the turbo better.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just think of what would happen at the track, the turbo is red hot and will be for a while as you pull back in. The water is barely flowing at idle and if you turn the engine off there is no flow. In this case the water will turn to steam and it needs to go somewhere.

I forget the name of it...but there is a word to describe the principle of water circulation after the engine is shut down. Hot water rises pulling cooler water up through the core so there is actually flow through the turbo after shutting down

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I forget the name of it...but there is a word to describe the principle of water circulation after the engine is shut down. Hot water rises pulling cooler water up through the core so there is actually flow through the turbo after shutting down

i believe its convection

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i believe its convection

I thought it started with hydro... And is used to describe this very principle.

EDIT : thermal siphoning!

Edited by t_revz
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've fitted my T67 up yesterday and i'm having trouble with the vbands being shithouse and not tightening enough. Mainly the one to hold the CHRA in, it doesnt do up enough to stop the core from moving, I can see this being a pain and having to keep moving it back.

Has anyone else got this problem???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They should do. I have S14 (or something S chassis, anyway) driveshafts in my R32 (because my diff flanges have 3x2). They're the right length. When you go looking for R32/3/4 driveshafts (for turbos), they're all the same thing, so are the same length. So there really shouldn't be any reason why those cheapies from JJ won't also fit an R34. R32/3 NA should also be the same thing. The (3x the price) D-Max ones are uni-fit. They have 5x1 and 3x2 bolt holes and say they cover all the cars. So that would also suggest that they are all the same except for the flanges. And in that case, the flange goes both ways. I'd be buying the D-Max ones if I ever have to replace a shaft. Because that will open up diff options without needing to juggle shafts also. Juggling shafts is gay.
    • Yeah with the adaptors they do look like the photo above - just the fitment within the plenum itself and then further with the rail to the intake is questionable - we shall see tomorrow hopefully once I get some replies from Aeroflow, maybe those bosses are the missing piece....
    • Should be fine, if you have it sitting too far in, you end up just spraying the walls and have shit idle. You "can" run them like that, however I don't think it's a great idea (also depends on your plenum, might be good to just get the injector bosses first, mock it up and see if you need to get the bottom extension) Ideally your injectors, with the extension should look like this  (Not my photos, just Google)
    • Thanks for the replies guys, it's really appreciated.  It seems the kit was supposed to come with those injector bosses but hasn't. Unsure if they'll help as even with the adaptors to make them a 3/4 height injector they still sit too far out so mount the fuel rail?
    • Hello, I am looking to replace my two rear drive shafts in my R34 N/A Skyline but I'm finding conflicting information. Do S13/S14/S15 or R32 NA/ R33 NA fit? https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-rear-drive-shaft-l-h-nissan-silvia-s13-s14-s15-3x2-type?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOoqY7EwDaYCUoUU3mxxZ_qrUXkVVHiV4MIN7ozoar6scjnEiekv- would this fit?
×
×
  • Create New...