Jump to content
SAU Community

Kando Dynamics Turbo


SimonR32

Recommended Posts

nah was a t28! lol

but thats my point its good to see how it ramps on/power curve with certain peoples setups etc etc etc

My cars torque was OVER NINE THOUSDANDDDDDDDD

Just wanted to belong :wave:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hypergear has mentioned in the past that testing on port covers proved that the a minor amount of response was lost and it required more boost to make the same power.

Surge point was obviously shifted and his recommendation was to only run a surge housing when required.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the t67 surges when loading up 3/4th gears at around 60kmph ramping onto boost. so im guessing im going to need this cover on. Id still like 2 test out non surge cover i got here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah i did mention maybe its just the difference between the two dyno's making them appear to be delivering differing reults.

Im not complaining in anyway, once i can get back to the dyno and put 20psi in it i should reach my goal of 400rwhp.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hmm so meth made 330 ish rwkw on 24 psi with e85 ? i got 311 on 19 with 98 would like to see number with e85 and boostin it up just for coupple power runs see see if i can get close to the number being ran on the hubs

Link to comment
Share on other sites

switched over to normal .7 front housing this morning :) completey different 2 drive now, even faster spool, 1.2bar boost ( gate pressure atm ) by 4000rpm in 4th rolling at 80kmph.

330kw on pump 98 is easy done, i use to run 28psi thru a 3582r on bp98 tune before this turbo and made 480rwhp, was a very safe tune.

also realised vct wasnt switched on, got new map sent over email earlier and now vct is on, this thing is responsive :)

Edited by methz
Link to comment
Share on other sites

no surge noticed yet, with anti surge housing i noticed it slightly in 3rd at low rpm ramping onto boost.. going 4 a drive tnite 2 see how surge goes, time 2 wind the boost back into it.

new cover + vct setup correctly, its like a dif setup, comes on boost so much better and harder.

Edited by methz
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a quick question, have been reading this thread but havn't exactly found what im looking for.

Basically, im wanting to buy a TD06 20G for my R33 skyline, im not sure if i should go anti surge front housing or non anti surge? i have heard the anti surge makes less power and not as responsive etc whereas the non anti surge makes more HP and is still a proven performer if tuned right etc?

specs on car if wanted:

Stock RB25 engine

s/s highmount

38mm tial gate, 1 bar spring

740cc injectors

freddy plenum

80mmThrottle body

exhaust

greddy digital boost controller

fmic

looking forward to your replies!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A Freddy plenum isn't really going to help much either..the stock one can handle anything a td06 20g can throw at it....probably make better torque too..also if you get the right ecu you won't need a boost controller ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From what I've seen and experienced first hand with those powder extinguishers, they're good to use to break a window and escape the car, and half the time then do f**k all to stop a fire. You just need much more than 1KG worth of powder. Not to mention, half the time it's an engine bay fire, and you can't easily, and do not want to completely open the bonnet, so you're left pretending to be an American Infantry... Spray and Pray baby!   And then 100% that shit is really destructive afterwards!   Realistically, those little ones at a race track might help you keep the fire from growing and give the fire marshal / truck a chance to actually get to you with their multiple large bottles.   For a road car, these days, prepare to deboard as quickly as humanly possible, and move to safety. Allow insurance to fix replace it (unless it's like a rare classic etc, then do nearly everything possible to save it!) Keep the little extinguisher with you to help protect other things around you from burning while you stand there singing "How can we sleep while our beds are burning?"   Secondly, powder extinguishers I freaking hate for indoor use, (this isn't really relevant to a car) as you will get a powder fog around you, and it can be disorientating.   When I did fire training when at BlueScope Steel, they have (had?) their own fire brigade on site. We did all the training, and at the end we were told, "If it's an indoor fire, and you need to use a powder extinguisher, we as the fire brigade would rather you just exit the building, you're more likely to get lost in the smoke and powder fog than do much help, so just GTFO" And pretty much that was what they said for most other fires too, grab extinguisher, if it's much more than paper in a bin fire, use extinguisher to get you and others out of the building to safety...   Part of me wishes when my Skyline caught alight many moons ago, I let insurance sort it out, instead of putting the fire out... part of me now says "But I've saved a classic before it was a classic!"
    • Hi all,  I have a older model of the Greddy Front facing intake on an RB25DET NEO Head. I've bought aeroflows fuel rail and injector kit (1000cc Bosche injectors) and I'm unsure if the fitment is correct. The injector o-rings fit in the intake hole but it's not snug. I can very easily rotate the injectors even when the fuel rail is mounted. The kit also came with multiple adaptors, they dont make it any more snug and using them raises the injectors up and i cant mount the fuel rail. I hope this makes sense I've asses a few photos.    Thanks so much guys. 
    • So, to run the 4g aerials to the booster, I had to get access to the rear bulkhead....bit of a mission. Hot tip, don't offer to help change the rear shocks for a mate with a v37.... Remove seat base, 2 clips that slide forward to release it the it lifts straight out Fold down rear seat (pull in from boot) The side bolster of the rear seat is not connected to the middle parts that fold. To remove unbolt at the bottom bolt then push it up off the top hook Then there is a plastic surround behind the seat back, 2 pop out clips, 2 bastard clips, some swearing at it is out Pop the rear seat latch surround off Remove door surround lower trim then side trim  Remove c pillar trim - 4 clips, pull inwards not forwards Remove metal brace - 5 bolts 1 nut Then you have got to the rear strut top...what a pain!
    • If you really want squish back, you can have it put on the piston (at least to some extent).
    • Impressive. He's very very smooth.
×
×
  • Create New...