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Kando Dynamics Turbo


SimonR32

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Kando-TD06-RB25-dyno-chart.jpg

Swapped my rear housing to a 10cm, made 235kw on 18psi. Was expecting more, and the Stagea needs more being a big heavy car.

Mick had to put a shim in the turbosmart gate to stiffen the spring, as it didn't want to hold boost. You can see it peaks at 18-19psi and then tapers down rather quickly. Rubbish, my old tial off the skyline held boost rock solid.

Turbo didn't want to make any more power either apparently, which is pretty lame.

Specs:

Kando TD06H 10cm
Turbosmart comp gate (f**king rubish unit, never using it again!)

3 inch exhaust

return flow intercooler

high flow injectors
Haltech E11
Run in RWD
98 Octane

I guess I'll go a T67 next, or probably back to Garret. See what happens. Unless someone can suggest something good for 280-300kw? needs to be low mount though for uber stealth.

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Adam I reckon its the return flow cooler. Those always cause havoc..

The turbo should make plenty more than that, especially with the H rear side. I'm assuming its a 20G compressor? 260+ should be more like it.

The fact the tuner thinks the turbo is running out of puff definitely tells me the restriction is in the intake side.

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After seen Roy mentioning about the TD06H I went through all TD06H dyno readings on Trent's dyno and did comparison against the SL2 turbine. TD06H turbine appeared to be laggier without making any more power. You can try our billet SS2 comped SL2s that is a step up from the standard 20Gs, or I think a standard highflowed turbo would make more power.

depending on where the external gate is attached. won't make good results if it is welded on turbine housing, locating it to exhaust manifold would prove other wise.

Cheap return flow cooler do have heatsoaking issue and takes much longer to heat sink compare to a good branded cooler.

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^^ This, if done right.

All Stao's attempts have been at 90 degrees to the flow I think, mine (Artz's) had a nicely die ground entry knife edge with a curved pipe. There is no way the exhaust flow can do a 90 degree bend while travelling at the speed of sound...

post-63525-0-13236700-1361261874_thumb.jpg

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Adam I reckon its the return flow cooler. Those always cause havoc..

The turbo should make plenty more than that, especially with the H rear side. I'm assuming its a 20G compressor? 260+ should be more like it.

The fact the tuner thinks the turbo is running out of puff definitely tells me the restriction is in the intake side.

My thoughts exactly regarding what it "should" make. Interesting idea on the return flow cooler setup.

I like how the engine bay looks nearly stock (except the gate off the manifold). But if going the conventional intercooler setup to gain a extra 30-40kw then I'd be down for that.

Though pin-pointing whether it is the cooler setup holding it back, or if I just got a odd turbo or whatever, will be the tricky part.

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My thoughts exactly regarding what it "should" make. Interesting idea on the return flow cooler setup.

I like how the engine bay looks nearly stock (except the gate off the manifold). But if going the conventional intercooler setup to gain a extra 30-40kw then I'd be down for that.

Though pin-pointing whether it is the cooler setup holding it back, or if I just got a odd turbo or whatever, will be the tricky part.

Just don't buy a "conventional" setup the same as you sold me...what a piece of shit..i fixed it, but what a piece of shit...lol

intercooler pipes didn't line up, not enough silicon, the intecooler pipe mount that goes at top of rockers was complety wrong..lol

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31
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I'm not using a justjap kit, we made our own using a core with inlet/outlet on the one side.

But still, kinda don't want to spend any more money on it until I know for certian, this whole kando ordeal I've had ... I probably could of bought a 3076 or something with the cash wasted :(

I'll do some digging on the return flow cooler problems though while I'm at it, anyone else had problems with return flow intercoolers?

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My thoughts exactly regarding what it "should" make. Interesting idea on the return flow cooler setup.

I like how the engine bay looks nearly stock (except the gate off the manifold). But if going the conventional intercooler setup to gain a extra 30-40kw then I'd be down for that.

Though pin-pointing whether it is the cooler setup holding it back, or if I just got a odd turbo or whatever, will be the tricky part.

Just don't buy a "conventional" setup the same as you sold me...what a piece of shit..i fixed it, but what a piece of shit...lol

intercooler pipes didn't line up, not enough silicon, the intecooler pipe mount that goes at top of rockers was complety wrong..lol

cheers

darren

I sold you a intercooler kit? was it brand new? if so you might want to talk to Darren Spencer (as that's who I got it from) about it, he had been importing them and assured they'd be a good fit.

Edited by Run-It-Hard
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yep, new, ..worst china cooler kit i have ever seen, f**king pos...if you paid a workshop to fit

it would cost a f**king fortune , absolute mongoloid...not angry at you, just telling you, if you go conventional..do NOT buy another one..lol

i just put a 38mm turbodumb gate on my hypergear G3 turbo of exhaust housing, straight 90 right at the flange, in a stagea has to be close as it ends up to near to the strut tower for my liking, and i am not really sure making it a nice entry makes any difference, i would want to see the results backed to back to worry about piss farting around with it(for this car anyway) . I also woudn't be suprised

if using different brands of gates made a big difference aswell

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31
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My brothers car had the same problem low power reading cause the return flow cooler setup on his car

He went thru numerous turbo setups all came up short of what they should put out and got his cams dialed in still similar results

End up just changing the cooler to a normal cheap 3inch inlet opposite sides and bang 20kw should have done it to start

Unigroup told him to change the cooler at the start but he didn't want to butcher the battery tray as it was a 180sx they did all the usual tests pressure drop,exhaust back pressure and comp test all came up good

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yep ^

I think its more so the harsh turn that the air has to do in order to flow back the way it came which causes friction to the air's particles and super heats the charge after its already been through the cooler.

You then have a nice cap on how much power you can actually make, and theres no way you can test it as pressure drops and air leaks have little to do with it. The core Adam is describing is the worst, where it basically hits a brick wall and is forced back the other way.

I know the air particles business sounds airy fairy star wars but thats actually the way it works. air gets friction against itself and gets hotter.

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dsc05822q.jpg


This is the kinda core I'm using lads. I get where your coming from Scott. I guess I need to decide whether I want the car to look stock and have average power, or put in a conventional cooler kit and gain the missing power I should have, if thats the problem.

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