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Kando Dynamics Turbo

SimonR32

By SimonR32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

The guy who posted just before your post has put a TD05H 18G 8cm on his RB20 and is soon to get it tuned.

He had a TD06H 20G before and he said its 'definitely more punchy'. you can see that right above your post, if you would so graciously read the thread lol.

as for a TD05H 20G thats not a known good combo. It will have the lag of a bigger turbo without the power. If you want more power than what the 18G can offer (say 240) then get yourself a TD06SL2 20G.

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Dale FZ1
Dale FZ1

My 30DET is now running TDO6H 25G, budget build with Hybrid manifold and 50mm Turbosmart gate. Turbine is the 11 blade option with 12cm housing. Tighe camshafts correctly dialled. Track car, chasin

R31Nismoid
R31Nismoid

And r33_racer or whatever also had around that figure too? Maybe it was 380? (struggling to recall)

T04GTR
T04GTR

are theese rubbish china turbos with a badge thats made in japan?

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murph Contributor

murph

Posted
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has anyone put either of the td05 18g or the td05 20g on there rb20s yet?

i have read that theve been put on the rb25s and have good response but what are they looking like on the rb20 with response and drift??

Will let you know on here later in the week, I have just installed a TD05H-18G extenal gate 3" antisurge on my rb20. Went External gate as we have had 3 kandos seize the internal wastegates shut and overboost. So Id stay away from them for sure.

went the 18g as all i read on the 18 and 20 was that the 20 made couple of extra kw in the top but lost a lot more low/mid. And compared wheel sizes to that of garrets and the 18g is only slighty by a bees dick larger than a 2871 which would be a perfect turbo for a rb20. and from memory the 20 was close to a 2876 which is a fair old mismatch of wheel sizes and have seen these to be very laggy.

I plumed the a turbosmart 45mm gate into the exh housing of the turbo, and ran a long gate pipe thate curls under the dump pipe so it all fits under a factory 25 heatshiled and cut the 3 bolt flange off a 25 comp cover and welded it to the comp out let to run the factory elbow. ( Road registerd drift car dont want to hae to pay to put it turough emmisions testing)

If you want to run this turbo on the stock manafold in the factroy compressor discharge angle you will need to run a spacer plate between the manafold and turbo, im running 12mm one and the comp housing is touching the maafold heatsheild, but my old vg30 one did the same.

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BI98NZ Enthusiast

BI98NZ

Posted
Posted

Thanks for all that info.

I have a top mount t04e lag monster at the moment so i would like to change. I have been looking to this style of setup for a while but i think ill stay top mount and try get good results. Ill prob loose spool time by 300rpm because of top mount but ay i dont mind.

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Kane_R32 Experienced

Kane_R32

Posted
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Murph - keen to hear what numbers you get. What supporting mods?

TD05-18G is good if you not wanting massive numbers 250-260+ and not wanting to loose too much lag.

Can anyone suggest a good plug gap for 22psi? Or just gap a little, then test drive unitil no more miss up high at WOT?

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GeorgesR34 Collaborator

GeorgesR34

Posted
Posted

Hypergear's looking for a tester for their billet TD05H for a dirt cheap deal. be interested to see their version of TD05 compare to a standard version. seeing their result of billet TD06SL2 and T67 it should be following the same tread.

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GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

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gap to 0.8 Kane, if misfiring try 0.6 but if you need to go that tight its indicating your spark is weak.

decent spark should be fine with .8

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murph Contributor

murph

Posted
Posted

Murph - keen to hear what numbers you get. What supporting mods?

TD05-18G is good if you not wanting massive numbers 250-260+ and not wanting to loose too much lag.

Can anyone suggest a good plug gap for 22psi? Or just gap a little, then test drive unitil no more miss up high at WOT?

yeah Im not aiming for high figures, I just wanted a relyable turbo which isnt much laggier than the old VG30 i had on previously.

response is more important for me as the car is a drift car. Last G1 comp I managed 2nd in div 2 with 150 rwkw on a stock 20 turbo. Conceded the final as I lost the exh wheel in the 2nd lap of top 4.

Yeah basically I was after a new turbo not a unknown 2nd junk, as my car has to be relyable. If I get 220 ish Ill be happy, Ill see how much injector duty i get up to if im not too high, Im planning on runnig 10% methanol to see if it can take some more mid range timing to get it on as early as possible.

mods are

metal head gasket arp studs, recoed head, tomei oil restricors, drilled out oil drains in head to 9.5 mm celaned up oil drains in rear of head, 6 chamber oil air separator tank draing to sump, extenal sump to rcr cover drain/vent. gtr injectors, split fires, nistune, 600x300x100 twin pass intercooler. 3" exh. Kelford 258 deg cams 8.7 lift ( from memory) cam gears, oil cooler, direct drive billet hub fan with gk teck fan (not runnign a viscos couple)

Os twinplate 25box

prob more shit i cant remember but for a 20 its got a fair bit of fruit

Also it gets tuned on a Mainline dyno, so figures are genrally lower than some other dynos.

Will be gettign it tuned either tomoro or thurs so ill keep posted

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Kane_R32 Experienced

Kane_R32

Posted
Posted

What boost you planning to run? I made 213rwkw @ 14psi, unopened, td06 (shitty i/gate) walbro, 550's, cooler, exhaust + nistune. Expecting 240ish with 20-22psi with the td05-18g 3" anti.

Scott - Have 0.8 gap already. Have swapped OEM coils for Supersparks (shhh were cheap), so could it be ignitor related as it was doing the same with the OEM coils..

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GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

Try change the coil harness mate, they can cause all sorts of havoc.

Make sure you have adequate earthing at the igniter and to the head. There is a strap from the stock coil harness to the firewall also IIRC and that needs to be sufficiently earthed too.

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Kane_R32 Experienced

Kane_R32

Posted
Posted

Ahhh yes. I replaced the harness as my connectors where starting to break. Funny you say firewall, my ignitor is earthed to one of the valley cover bolts?? And the harness is earthed to the last coil pack "frame" mounting bolt??

Do they seem like OEM positions? I have no issues making addition earthing connections myself if you think it will help.

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GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

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They are definitely not the OEM position...

And they are relying on the motors ability to earth which it would probably have one single strap bolted onto the thermostat housing or similar. Which then goes through alloy to cast iron and back to alloy through layers of gasket goop and mainly relies on the bolts holding it together to earth.

100% you should do up an earth kit and have good earthing to the body AND multiple points on the motor. Make sure your earths are NOT secured to painted surfaces or there will be limited conductivity.

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murph Contributor

murph

Posted
Posted

Well ran mine up last wed, and ended up spending the night chasing a missfire issue. Havent sorted it out yet

didnt get a constitant run out of it but had 12 lb boost in it by 3400 rpm and over all response very similar to the vg30 seen did make 226kw probably more in it, but yeah still trying to sort the miss fire issue before can tune properly.

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