Jump to content
SAU Community

Kando Dynamics Turbo


SimonR32

Recommended Posts

Looks great Trent, that twin 4 inch intake is excessive but it looks great. :)

Yeah for sure, just getting it sorted for the stroker motor.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

nice..id love a turbo v8

cheers

darren

C'mon mate, we know they don't make em like they used to. It's missing a Holley double pumper and a high rise manifold.

Beryl would not approve.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lol current thought project of mine is a 4 barrel on my 928 porsche.. just need to think of how id do the intake manifold to sit the carb.

78 model porka, may aswell get 70s tech lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lol current thought project of mine is a 4 barrel on my 928 porsche.. just need to think of how id do the intake manifold to sit the carb.

78 model porka, may aswell get 70s tech lol

Did a retrofit with a autronic on one years back. love 928s

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did a retrofit with a autronic on one years back. love 928s

Do you have any notes or pics of it laying around? I am in need of inspiration.

Mine is the mechanical K-jetronic setup.. I actually got it running nicely with some tweeking but for gods sake the car feels slow compared to anything turbo.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do slide around your loungeroom on your socks just wearing sunglasses, a shirt and some jocks?

cheers

darren

and sing to cheesy 80s tunes, yes.

actually i just bought my own home and got the keys on monday, so i will definitely be doing the above just because i can.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its a 300 page old thread with tons of info and the same questions being asked over and over, usually with guys like me replying and not being a total prick telling people to read the thread from start to finish.

I think we are allowed a little banter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its a 300 page old thread with tons of info and the same questions being asked over and over, usually with guys like me replying and not being a total prick telling people to read the thread from start to finish.

I think we are allowed a little banter.

yeah i gave up being a prick and telling people to read the thread ages ago....How you been anyway Jas...long time no see :P..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah i gave up being a prick and telling people to read the thread ages ago....How you been anyway Jas...long time no see :P..

LOL yeah you know, moving house this week. bought my own place.

fun times, sir SR is on the back burner for now.

what about you? anything to add to the kando land chat thread?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

turbo is making a funny whistle...haven't diagnosed it any further than it is coming form the area where the turbo is...put 40psi (from a compressor not boost :P) through the system and no hoses popped...but there is a little annoying whistle there on boost...think it might be the comp housing or something ...laziness and a fear of the unknown is stopping me from removing it for inspection....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

turbo is making a funny whistle...haven't diagnosed it any further than it is coming form the area where the turbo is...put 40psi (from a compressor not boost :P) through the system and no hoses popped...but there is a little annoying whistle there on boost...think it might be the comp housing or something ...laziness and a fear of the unknown is stopping me from removing it for inspection....

How many K's have you done with that thing now?

I pulled mine down a few weeks ago and had the core apart, all looked good and the imperfections on the turbine wheel hadn't grown or changed..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • 8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
×
×
  • Create New...