Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So my brothers GT3076R packed it in. He's been through a few now so its time to give garrett the flick royale.

Throw some opinions around guys. Is it T67 time or TD06H 25G? Is for a Sigma 2.6L which made light work of spooling the 3076R .63 (spooled very early, very easy).

So my brothers GT3076R packed it in. He's been through a few now so its time to give garrett the flick royale.

Throw some opinions around guys. Is it T67 time or TD06H 25G? Is for a Sigma 2.6L which made light work of spooling the 3076R .63 (spooled very early, very easy).

I had a 34 turbo on mine and it used to spool in reverse :P

It had a ugly T3/T4 thing on it before that and was laggy as! But the car was a heap of shit haha

So my brothers GT3076R packed it in. He's been through a few now so its time to give garrett the flick royale.

Throw some opinions around guys. Is it T67 time or TD06H 25G? Is for a Sigma 2.6L which made light work of spooling the 3076R .63 (spooled very early, very easy).

I'd say the smart thing to do would be work out what he has wrong with his setup which resulted in the GT3076Rs dying, instead of just changing brands

I already know why it died. The reason for the change is that it is expensive to repair the garrett when these things happen, not because it's necessarily the turbos fault. Garrett themselves no longer make a rebuild kit, so the only things to salvage are the front and rear housings.

A new core is $850+ and being the 3rd one the car has had we are finding them to be a little too delicate for the agricultural spec Astron 2.6.. So its time to move to something which is cheaply replaced/repaired in the event of failure (spare T67 cores are about $350 delivered).

A Kando is $750 delivered and I can cheaply replace it when he blows it up, which he will. He doesn't need/deserve a ball bearing turbo on there let along the Kando anyway lol

I had a 34 turbo on mine and it used to spool in reverse :P

It had a ugly T3/T4 thing on it before that and was laggy as! But the car was a heap of shit haha

LOL! the GT30 was similar... it almost always has boost. it only really developed a 'turbo' character when he put a massive stage 5 cam in it.

They do but for some reason they only sell them as hybrids of the two.

Ie 3560-1 or T04R82.

I'm leaning toward a simple T67 atm as its not far off what he had in all ways and is cheaply and easily replaced.

He's quoted me on repairing the GT30 core with a G3 core and reusing the compressor side and housings... But turbine would change and cost is up there with a replacement core.

am liking the kando more atm due to availability and cost effective replacement if anything goes wrong. Knowing this motor its likely to root another turbo, and knowing Stao he's likely to want to fix it for free every time. This is just a cleaner arrangement and I can maintain a good relationship too.

am potentially looking at a tial .63 housing on one of his L2 74mm items for the SR though. I think he's onto something awesome there

New results from td06sh-25g 10cm on sr22 with 260 12.5mm cams.. 300rwkw by 4500rpm... 8500rpm rev limit.. sequential box = mental.

Nice. After my playing with turbos I was just going to go with my one but went T67 just so I could baseline my results against others as I am still not sure about the performance of my new kinder surprise engine. I have said this before but this time will follow through. Need to get my car over to you for a few runs so I can understand whether its far off what a T67 setup can do,

I am making 325rwklws at 18psi falling to 16psi from about 5,500rpm onwards. After PI am going to make a few changes then will give it a few runs. Feels pretty healthy at 16psi and will be pretty easy on the engien and the track...also a little easier on the RB20 box

New results from td06sh-25g 10cm on sr22 with 260 12.5mm cams.. 300rwkw by 4500rpm... 8500rpm rev limit.. sequential box = mental.

Making a lot of power but falls away after 6500 - don't know why you'd want to spin it up to 8500.

With the goodness relatively concentrated in a tight band I'd want those ratios tightly spaced too :)

Great result though and full credit due - what does the boost curve look like?

Edited by Dale FZ1

Making a lot of power but falls away after 6500 - don't know why you'd want to spin it up to 8500.

With the goodness relatively concentrated in a tight band I'd want those ratios tightly spaced too :)

Great result though and full credit due - what does the boost curve look like?

its only just drops 25-30kw at 8500 (this run cut early as it was tuned up there already.... ) with 8500 it allows you to to change less on the track even with the close ratio sequential its mental... never driven anything like it with a healthy 4000rpm torque and power band its crazy.

when compared to a similar 3litre powered rb2530 neo with VCT (graph shows vct on and off) attached you can see just how insane the little sr is.. the rpm band is a similar 3500-4000rpm.

post-34927-0-73415300-1367032728_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
    • From everything I’ve heard you’ll be waiting a long time for  the parts to arrive 
    • Have you looked at the workshop manual?
    • Hmm. I've gotten pretty good outcomes from talking to them about things that I've had go wrong or ideas for improvement. Have had a lot to say about the R32 FUCAs, and they have sent out some replacement parts for those, gratis, on a couple of occasions. Mind you, I have bought a couple hundreds of $ of replacement rod ends for them too!
    • I have a r34 sedan 1999 manual converted need some help with my speedometer it only reads upto 98km and then stops currently still running the auto cluster any easy fixes no speedo drive is connected yet, if someone has a video for wiring up the manual speedo sensor with the auto cluster please send through 
×
×
  • Create New...