Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I want someone to take the tweaked log manifold with gate and then go and spend the extra $1000 on 6boost and $300 on pipng changes and report back. :)

We have that with a low mount T67 and camtech drop ins, the std manifold was a restriction over 300 we topped out @ 327 dropping to 320 after about 10 pulls with the t67 in a conservative track tune. We gained about 15rwkw consistant through the mid and top and found it would hold more timing on top again due to the drop in exhaust pressures. Manifold was a low mount 6 boost item with matched runners, they had to do it twice but the second one was bang on and with a similarly conservative track tune pulls 340rwkw repeatedly.

The original manifold had two gate outlets (either side of splitter) going to one blitz 47mm wastegate (dual outlet gate).

http://www.skylinesa...ttach_id=142838

I dont consider this test to be a rule, just what we found... same car same mods just a different manifold.

Interesting all the same. Cant wait to get this lil 18G strapped on my car and throw 20psi at it. I am real curious the power difference at 4,500rpm, 5,000rpm and 5,500rpm. We can start a pool. My 2c/hopes:

4,500rpm - +30rwkws

5,000rpm - +15rwkws

5,500rpm - 0rwkws

I have posted this stuff in my build thread but will post some of it as it may answer some questions.

My Trust TD05 housing fits the "Kando the Boost Mutilator" turbo no probs. So that was a rellief as I was concerned with so many TD05 wheels around that Trust may not have suited the TD05H wheel Kando use. The lines are robust but pretty heavy and I am going to turf them and use new lines I will make up. So if you are buying the turbo I personally wouldnt stress too much about whether you get their fitting kit or not.

The CHRA looks fine, plenty of oil in it for storage and the compressor cover isnt too bad. A few marks here and there but will polish them out. For the money!....

TD05H-18G

med_gallery_462_50_66814.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_185153.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_208537.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_247453.jpg?t=36239728

Then side by side with my Trust T67-25G (10cm)

med_gallery_462_50_257595.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_153163.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_154266.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_112743.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_111755.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_38290.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_25736.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_22264.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_255859.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_75151.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_11081.jpg

Thinking one of these for my RB30D or stick with my GT3076 .63 and go bigger rear housing?

TDO6H

350-400rwkw would be plenty - i want response!

T67-12cm or 35R .82

35R will get u closer to 400, T67 would be more responsive.

I wonder what a 3540 would be like with one of the bolt on .73 Kando external gate T3 housings....

cheers

darren

or even better on a fg falcon turbo, with their 76mm comp wheel and .5 cover. should be awesome on a 25

Edited by dori33

Hey guys,

Just wanted to confirm with you that this is the same as the T67 just a water cooled variant. I wrote and asked Eiji, but he never responded. The trims and housings look the same. I'd prefer to run this in the track car rather than the oil cooled only.

I've only used Garret/HKS previously, is there any real benefit with water cooling?

Thanks

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-4-Inlet-TD06H-25G-T3-4-bolt-10cm-AR-73-500P-/290657754622?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43ac8d5dfe#ht_2275wt_1187

Edited by Simonster

Hey guys,

Just wanted to confirm with you that this is the same as the T67 just a water cooled variant. I wrote and asked Eiji, but he never responded. The trims and housings look the same. I'd prefer to run this in the track car rather than the oil cooled only.

I've only used Garret/HKS previously, is there any real benefit with water cooling?

Thanks

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-4-Inlet-TD06H-25G-T3-4-bolt-10cm-AR-73-500P-/290657754622?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43ac8d5dfe#ht_2275wt_1187

I've just seen that the exhaust trims are larger than the T67 and T06SL, this one is TD06H.

sorry for the screw around.

Would like your input of the water cooling vs oil only though...

No it's not, it has a TD06H rear wheel and not a TD06SL2 rear wheel...

Nothing wrong with just oil cooling with plain bearing turbos :)

PS. Has anyone seen these billet wheels yet?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbo-Billet-Compressor-Wheel-7075-AL-T67-25G-TD07S-25G-Extra-30-airflow-/270897143127?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f12ba5d57#ht_2045wt_1270

Hey guys,

Just wanted to confirm with you that this is the same as the T67 just a water cooled variant. I wrote and asked Eiji, but he never responded. The trims and housings look the same. I'd prefer to run this in the track car rather than the oil cooled only.

I've only used Garret/HKS previously, is there any real benefit with water cooling?

Thanks

http://www.ebay.com....#ht_2275wt_1187

No that is not the same. That is a TD06H.................

T67 = TD06SL2 (or just look for one that says T67)

The T67 item we all like also has a v-band rear not 4 bolt, v-band is nicer :)

However... This is what your looking for:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-4-TD06SL2-25G-T3-V-Band-450P-/290659971402?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43acaf314a

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I like mine. Much better than stock. Like i said before the reverse/parking cameras look even worse than normal, still useable. When you buy one make sure it's the latest version. Heaps of cheap ones that run the old hardware and software. Got mine from AliExpress. Mine is quick no lag, boots up 1-2 sec. Menu is fast. Netflix is fine and so is YouTube. Android Auto is random taking 3sec to 15sec. Most of the time it's quick. Very rare it doesn't connect. But that could be a phone thing.   Now I think they use a Pixel 3XL to run this whole thing which i guess is fine, but the problem is that some apps will not work on old hardware like Disney Plus  Maybe Prime Video too 🤔. they will not update. Iv'e tried getting the APK Disney + but i still couldn't get it working. I have a Data sim installed so i have internet all the time. You can't Hotspot off your phone and connect Android Auto at the same time. Not that you need too, if you want you can hotspot off your phone and run any internet map app (google maps) and you can run the Spotify app on it's own (the app runs better than android auto) You can still access the INFINITI intouch system for all the o.g stuff    P.S i got new non Polarization Sunglasses too 😎 
    • I also don't mean to rain on your parade. But with a 5-10k budget for road only? I'd want to check confirmation that everything IS working correctly and I'm with @GTSBoy for a plan of action here. I'd be checking subframes, bushes, exhaust hangers, interior bits and generally QOL things and CONFIRMING they are working right before thinking about motor. You can get 250KW+ on stock RB26 hardware by simply removing the built in restrictors and tuning the stock ECU. If you want purity that's as far to take it, which I would be worried to do and won't think the budget would allow for when earnestly checking for 30+ year old car stuff.
    • I specifically said buy new performance car because of the use case here (i.e, no track use and fun livable everything/do it all easily if not especially amazing as a drivers car). Tracking an 80K Skyline and an 80K M2 makes the BMW the obviously more risky purchase WHEN something goes wrong you suddenly can't easily fix it with hand tools and readily available parts that you may have a community of people you know available, or years of your own knowledge on the platform to apply. There's reasons you see Hondas and Vettes and RB's and Miatas and such at tracks, you can easily hand-tool repair 99.9% of it in a shed, usually with the tools and the skillset of the owner to apply to it. An i30N is not going to beat a R chassis unless it's got massive problems either. The old cars can, and still do work great. The problem is - and always has been - social media would have you believe it's simple and easy to achieve the results you see online.  People want their car to be like "one of those cool JDM cars" which is the default image people have when they think of  "cool JDM cars" You are paying 25 years of catchup R&D to achieve. Or the knowledge somebody else has to do it for you, which is big dollar restomod stuff.  The bar has been moved and every R chassis that people see/like/enjoy has 25 years of R&D thrown at it, or is owned by someone who did all that work and has that knowledge over the past 25 years. All the survivors have been progressively resto-modded the entire time. OR you slowly bring it back to how it was stock. Which is also prohibitively expensive, done for the love of it. This is what the JDM community is now. This is fine, but "Where do I start?" is either: 1) Don't 2) Take your own slow journey but you cannot compare your progress with others who have had 25 years of R&D and experience building their own cars unless you pay for it.
    • Yep, with the crazy inflation of the value of our cars these past couple of years this became a problem for me too... My solution is to transition to bikes. Everything feels so cheap compared to tracking the skyline lol
    • So, I've been a little busy on this car. I replaced the bonnet struts which is always satisfying but very confusing that nobody else on the planet seems to do this. Its just my routine first thing I do on any car I buy. The boot struts for both the tailgate and the separately opening glass window was a bastard. And, I found a fair bit of rust in the strut cavity. I filled it with rust converter and cleaned up as much of the dirt as I could. There was so much dirt. One piece of the trim was barely hanging on and so I've left it off. I'll try to get a replacement. You can see how disgusting and dirty it all was in this thread; I had to remove the little clips that hold the struts on the ball. The ones I took off had no clips and it was impossible to get them on with them in place. Fingers crossed they stay put. So, I turned my attention to the headlights, they were in a bad way and likely would stop rego. I took the headlights out and found the adjusters were all just loose. So, I fixed those and unclipped the lenses to clean them up. Couldn't believe how easy it was to take all this apart compared to the E90.   I also cleaned up the stockies which was awesome, these are super cool with lug nut covers. They're in good nic but the tyres are shot. I was going to use these for rego but in the end got a fresh pair of rubber for the 17's on the front of the car instead. The front bar of this car is from a late(r) model one. I don't think it's quite LCI but who knows. I'll need to find out. Anyway, the bar was missing the fog lights and the wiring and plugs were for the original ones so I got new plugs and some cheap fogs. I wasn't sure if missing original equipment would hamper my blue slip attempts. Had a couple of these little fellas helping out. But not Ben who got stuck behind the pool heater .... How embarressment.  I ordered new speed sensors for all corners because I knew one was out. I just got cheapies and will replace them with Bosch items when I can find Bosch items. Again, this was just for rego. Alas, it seems the blue speed sensors are not the same as the grey ones. Back they went and replacements ordered. In the end, with my new scan tool, it was just rear left that was shot. Replaced it and cleared the codes. All good now. Lastly, my aux (thermo) fan is being a bit odd. Its powering up at strange times and NOT powering up when I think it should (100C). While this can be caused by a few things, the most likely (for me) is the ambient temp sensor. Given mine reads -40.0C regardless of the temp, I figured it would be good to replace it. In the end, the sensor wiring was abysmal with (terrible) attempts made by somebody to fix it.   I fixed this all up but the sensor is only attached using pins into the wires. The plug is not there. Despite trying and trying to connect it securely it wouldn't work so a replacement sensor and plug is on the way. Oh, I also ordered a replacement piece of trim for the part missing here at the bottom. Ordered from Latvia for $70 delivered. I took a bit of a leap of faith because I didn't have the exact part number and, as usual, there were eleventy billion pieces of trim that looked to fit. Nailed it. Well, its not totally perfect but I think its more a 28 y/o car problem than a trim problem. And, as of today ..... I have bought the workshop manuals 2nd hand off a guy in tassie. 1000+ pages of E39 goodness, hopefully it helps me with the fan. I also have a new temp switch on the way incase its the problem. Stoked.
×
×
  • Create New...