Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i can't say much about the atr43 , from what i've read there's heaps of variants . the person to ask would be STATUS , he may be nice enough to pm you a dyno sheet of each on cars with similar mods? for $8-900 i don't think you can purchase a hypergear of similar size for that?

Has anyone tried the td06 l2 10cm on a rb20??? i'm hanging out to see whether the 10cm is too laggy?

Is there a 8cm L2?

For me its all about the RESPONSE on the street - I know you cant go past stock - but how does the hypergear atr43 on a 280-300rwkw GTT / GTS-T compare to a 3071 or 3076 on the same car at the same power level with similar stage 1 mods - exhaust, FMIC, ecu, boost control, pump, injectors etc??

I ran my TD06-20G with a 10cm housing. The 8cm made the same power and was far more responsive in the 4,000rpm range. The 8cm doesnt like much more then 20psi due to back pressure, so if you want to run more then 20psi then perhaps the extra top end will make up for the loss in mid range...but i doubt it. That said I am about to go back to the 10cm housing and some baby cams for shits and giggles. I know I will be a laggy POS with not hitting 22psi to about 4,800rpm but curious to know how much more then the current 272rwkws it can make with the bigger housing and some cams (note, that cams with the 8cm dont seem to do anything as it seems the tiny lil 8mc rear is the cause of any restriction...not cam duration or lift)

For me its all about the RESPONSE on the street - I know you cant go past stock - but how does the hypergear atr43 on a 280-300rwkw GTT / GTS-T compare to a 3071 or 3076 on the same car at the same power level with similar stage 1 mods - exhaust, FMIC, ecu, boost control, pump, injectors etc??

I honestly dont feel that any of the above are going to give you a real feel of response. The stock turbo, in my honest opinion, was a lazy POS. Far better could be had.

My opinion of response would have to lie on a HKS GTRS. I am also going to go down the road of a TD06SL2-20G on my 1J and see how that turns out. It should meet and exceed results of a 3071 with what I anticipate will be far more midrange and outright response.

To utilise the currently available kando version of this turbo you will need a gate adapter made.

For me its all about the RESPONSE on the street - I know you cant go past stock - but how does the hypergear atr43 on a 280-300rwkw GTT / GTS-T compare to a 3071 or 3076 on the same car at the same power level with similar stage 1 mods - exhaust, FMIC, ecu, boost control, pump, injectors etc??

Its called atr43 super street lol. There's an ss-2 which appears to have 3071's response with 3076's power out put. check the dynosheet section. In my opinion thats the cheapest option to get power since every thing bolt on to factory setup. The Kando turbos are cheap option for 400rwkws E85 track machines, on every day road use it’s not that practical, specially with 100% defect rate. Don't hijack this thread, Post your hypergear questions into hypergear's thread.

Edited by kwickr33

For me its all about the RESPONSE on the street - I know you cant go past stock - but how does the hypergear atr43 on a 280-300rwkw GTT / GTS-T compare to a 3071 or 3076 on the same car at the same power level with similar stage 1 mods - exhaust, FMIC, ecu, boost control, pump, injectors etc??

Try go for a drive in one. You'll see that what's on the dyno sheet doesn't necessarily always tell the true story about power delivery, response in/out of gears and so on.

I just got an email back from Eiji, there will be a 8cm T3 IW housing for the L2 available end of May... Not shure about an 8 cm T3 external gate housing...

Justin.

cheers justin , pair for xrated?? :P , i was about to buy the t25 variant and use a t3-t25 adaptor . an 8cm with v-band exh out would be a winner though

cheers justin , pair for xrated?? :P , i was about to buy the t25 variant and use a t3-t25 adaptor . an 8cm with v-band exh out would be a winner though

Hey Toff... I'm still in two minds about what's going to end up on XRATED. It's either going to be a pair of low mount GTRS's OR a pair of TD06L2 8cm Trust turbo's... what do you (or anyone else) think??? (stroker- dog box- 4.3:1 gears) I've got manifolds, trust pipe work etc for either set up.

... oh and 400hp worth of direct port nitrous if I get exited :-)

But anyway... I just emailed Eiji and he got back to me in a couple of days. I'm thinking about swapping out my Precision Turbo- Billet 5557 in my (rb25)32 gts-t for a Kando... Either a Kando or a Hypergear 'super response' for a crazy 220rwkw (I have 4.3:1 gears in the gts-t).

Cheers

Justin

I wonder if that 8cm T3 IW is going to handle the flow of a 2.5L....

I am days off ordering my SL2 20G and would LOVE an IW housing and am even thinking 8cm might be the ticket for BS response.. However I really want to see the thing cracking 260rwkw.

It would break my heart to get the thing on the motor and be limited by the 8cm or the small IW wastegate flapper.

FYI trust examples pull over 400ps on jap hub dynos ala youpoop.

PPS the limitations of the wastegate flapper is what stops me getting one with a 10.5cm evo rear housing. I will need a custom manifold regardless (1JZ) so making one to suit this would be no drama, especially considering I am going to use the factory 3:1 manifolds and make a J-pipe. Maybe I should reconsider this option... Input please?

Just a warning regarding the internal wastegates on the Kinugawa turbos... The only negative feedback I could find on the net about their turbos were issues with internal gates having boost control issues!

Obviously the 8cm T3 will be a different design, but just a warning. Also we will never know till someone gives it a go so who is game?

for your style of driving justin i'd be going for the td06's :ph34r: nitrous fixes lag :whistling: . rb25 r32 is a daily?

...what- who me?? my driving style... I drive realy slowly. It's the missus who drives to fast :whistling:

Yeah, td06's I think.. why not- they look cool too... (gotta keep up with the kool kids) ba h ah aha ha. Gas is good! maybe I'll just run one bar and 300hp of nitrous :domokun:

RB25 r32 is my thrasher/ missus car (was anyway- was my excuse)/ drifter/ gymkhana- motorkhana car...

I got a black S2 stag for daily duties/ tow car.

Just a warning regarding the internal wastegates on the Kinugawa turbos... The only negative feedback I could find on the net about their turbos were issues with internal gates having boost control issues!

Obviously the 8cm T3 will be a different design, but just a warning. Also we will never know till someone gives it a go so who is game?

Im thinking to J-pipe my factory manifolds and run an evo twin scroll item.

Assuming the exhaust wheel is big enough for the flow, what is your thought on the waste gate flapper being too small? Think it would cause boost spike and then inability to hold boost up top? Or think it would cause it to run higher boost up top.

Hypergear has had some interesting results in regards to this, but it would be hard to cross reference the two. Obviously running the evo 10.5cm rear also negates any issue with the kando IW housings not holding boost (his evo turbos would run genuine or ex mitsubishi items).

I knew there was going to be a grain of doubt pop up with the IW plan...

I gather you know that you would need an Evo10 turbine housing because the 4-9s use anti clockwise rotation TDO5H"R" turbos .

The aftermarket seems to be getting a lot of horsepower (for the frame size) out of these Mitsy Evo twin scroll turbine housings but they are boring them out for larger turbines to do it . Being twin scroll twin integral gate they need separate waste passages for each half of the housing . Early ones had two holes and two flat valves where late housings ie 8MR and 9 use a single larger round hole with a divider , miror imaged "D" shape .

I don't remember the exact specs for the evo 10 turbo or the output of a std 4B11T engine , I am told by reliable sources that they run 21 pounds of boost std so the flow paths can't be too small . I must look up the turbine and T housing spec of those things .

A .

You are correct reharding the R type turbines, however the TD06SL2 wheel has been used in these housings to great success.. I am thinking the SL2 wheel must also be reversed OR the housing design makes little difference provided the compressor wheel is also the correct type.

I need to call GTPumps I think..

You have to agree, this is a VERY interesting concept no?

I ran out of time to post yesterday but I did find the Evo 10s turbo spec - its called TD05H-152G6-12T which means it has a 12cm twin scroll turbine housing . Thats getting up there size wise and def getting into what a 2.5L six would like . Mobs like Forced Performance and CBRD in the US do quite a few effective high flows based on reverse rotation 4-9 turbos and now the 10 so things are out there to play with if you can get around the Mitsubishi Evo flange pattern . Also as a heads up the staggered inlet ports on the 10 turbine housing are the opposite to what the 4-9 reverse rotation turbos have so factor this in if you're getting a manifold made .

Not Nissan related but the Evo 10s turbo is clockwise rotation because its on the firewall side of its transverse engine where the 1-9 are out front on the radiator side . I think this may have been because the out front type have a greater length of engine pipe between the dump and the cat which no doubt increases the time it takes to light the cat up at cold start .

A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You have found the problem. The wire from the switch to the HB is shorted to earth. Now you have to physically find it and replace it. It won't be the switch, although following the steps above (and yes, where you ask, that is the light switch on the RHS of the binnacle) will rule it out for sure. Or not, if perhaps the switch has melted. But there's no route to earth inside the switch, so I can't see how it would.
    • I did read your post, a few times actually.    Done. Followed this step. [Negative probe should be on the cars chassis. Positive on the wire.]   Did this partially.. now that im reading this over, i only unplugged the LED lights. [Start as said above by unplugging everything (unplug the lights, and switches.] When you are talking about the switch, you're talking about the knob thing on the right side in the drivers seat right? If so, i need to take that apart?  [Now at the switch, there is a wire from the fuse, to the switch, so out your positive on that terminal. It should read open circuit. If it reads something, especially a stupid low value, the short is somewhere between the fuse and the switch.] At this point are you referring to the connector by the headlights?  [If that's fine, now put the positive probe on the wire that goes to the headlight (at the switch plug). If it reads stupid low, the fault is from the switch, to the headlight.] Did this. I can confirm that the LED lights aren't the issue [Another quick test, is take the whole LED light setup from the left, and plug it into the right side, does it still blow the fuse? If you put the right hand side led light setup on the left hand side wiring, does the left hand side wiring now blow?  If the blowing fuse swaps from right to left doing this, your LED lights are the issue.]
    • Hey was wondering if you ended up installing the R33 GTR speed sensor - I found one too and wanted to confirm it's a direct swap into the R34 6 speed?
    • After 23 years of owning a Skyline, finally had the latch go.  Followed this guide,  works like a dream again. Great Guide 👍
    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
×
×
  • Create New...