Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Peak Power at 5,500rpm! Noses over rather badly after 7,000rpm. He has HKS cams and what looks to be a 10cm exhaust. I wonder if its the std inlet that makes it fall over or simply the little 25G wheel running out of puff.

Would be a bit of an animal to drive with that graph. Makes me think Kando needs a T78 for all the RBDirty folk :)

I stick to my statement. Your always hanging around waiting and encouraging somebody else to try before YOU buy, I straight out don't appreciate that. There's a difference in attitude between quietly keeping an eye on someones build and purposefully encouraging them to hurry so you can see how it turns out for you own benefit. You have some audacity to talk about other members of this forum.

You can call me childish or whatever else you want, fact is I am an asshole and always tell it how it is. I'm not afraid to hear one more goof call me an asshole or a child or whatever else you would like to say, go nuts.

Fact is you and I watch the same threads, Ive probably inadvertently read 90% of your total posts, and I can safely say you have a crappy attitude towards this forum and the help you get from its members. End of story.

Do you really think I care what YOU think or appreciate??? RE: 'and purposefully encouraging them to hurry so you can see how it turns out for you own benefit.'..where are you getting THIS from?? Where did I say, 'hurry up, I wana see..' yada yada.. Even if I did, what is wrong with that/ Who are YOU to tell me what I should do?? Especially coming across as some stupid 'hero kid' with ginger just-grown pubes who thinks he can tell people what to do, you have been in here far far longer than myself, know more Skyline stuff than me, YET have very low levels of maturity and attitude. Grow the fk up you moron! I will ignore your posts now.

And of course I appreciate all the help I get on this forum, have said and thanked members countless times and helped others myself.

Peak Power at 5,500rpm! Noses over rather badly after 7,000rpm. He has HKS cams and what looks to be a 10cm exhaust. I wonder if its the std inlet that makes it fall over or simply the little 25G wheel running out of puff.

Either that or could it be that with those bigger cams the exhaust side is choking?

Edited by Rolls

I think the 25G wheel is just maxed out. If he had a bung in the housing seeing what the back pressure was you would get a feel for how the L2 turbine and 10cm housing are doing keeping up with the cfm from the 3L.

Wow, depressing to see how easy that thing makes power :(

Dam this is better then the plenum thread I opened haha can you guys make shorter posts makes the laughs come faster that's all. Hey dori throw the pop corn would you

Edited by Bsa

I think the 25G wheel is just maxed out. If he had a bung in the housing seeing what the back pressure was you would get a feel for how the L2 turbine and 10cm housing are doing keeping up with the cfm from the 3L.

Interesting though that the low boost run that makes 300rwkw also has the same drop off, does that mean that its not the turbo running out of puff but something else?

The compressor follows its "pump curve" based on the pressure ratio. So whilst you are limiting your shaft speed the the compressors ability to keep up with the breathing of the engine is going to be roughly matched at low boost as it will be at high boost. That's from 10 sec think about pump theory. Others should jump in if that's wrong

Re bigger RBs...yeh yeh. I enjoy playing with the little 20. The way I see it the lil 20 is like a fine tuning fork. If it works in the 20 it will work on the other RBs, however you may not notice the difference on the bigger RBs as they have airflow to burn and not as sensitive to changes :)

I think the 25G wheel is just maxed out. If he had a bung in the housing seeing what the back pressure was you would get a feel for how the L2 turbine and 10cm housing are doing keeping up with the cfm from the 3L.

Wow, depressing to see how easy that thing makes power :(

I doubt the 25g is out of flow, I did go an extra 30kw more than that. I would be pointing toward the cam timing being a bit shonky like most RB30's... There is no way that should dive like that after 5000rpm and when I have seen them do it in the past it's because the cam timing isn't set correctly

EDIT: I didn't realise it was a shitty R32 RB25 head, so that is probably more the reason :whistling:

Edited by SimonR32

holy crap cake, that 30 would be devestatingly quick for a traffic light warrior with soo much torque at those sort of rev's. I'm deffinitly sold that if I'm replacing my turbo it has to be a TD06H-25G or bigger. KD do make TD07 and TD08 turbo's so no reason they can't make a T78. probly just have to ask to have them to list 1 on ebay or the shop front. they Listed other things after I asked them questions on selling parts.

Re bigger RBs...yeh yeh. I enjoy playing with the little 20. The way I see it the lil 20 is like a fine tuning fork. If it works in the 20 it will work on the other RBs, however you may not notice the difference on the bigger RBs as they have airflow to burn and not as sensitive to changes :)

But like you said it sucks at making power easily.... why do you persist??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I like mine. Much better than stock. Like i said before the reverse/parking cameras look even worse than normal, still useable. When you buy one make sure it's the latest version. Heaps of cheap ones that run the old hardware and software. Got mine from AliExpress. Mine is quick no lag, boots up 1-2 sec. Menu is fast. Netflix is fine and so is YouTube. Android Auto is random taking 3sec to 15sec. Most of the time it's quick. Very rare it doesn't connect. But that could be a phone thing.   Now I think they use a Pixel 3XL to run this whole thing which i guess is fine, but the problem is that some apps will not work on old hardware like Disney Plus  Maybe Prime Video too 🤔. they will not update. Iv'e tried getting the APK Disney + but i still couldn't get it working. I have a Data sim installed so i have internet all the time. You can't Hotspot off your phone and connect Android Auto at the same time. Not that you need too, if you want you can hotspot off your phone and run any internet map app (google maps) and you can run the Spotify app on it's own (the app runs better than android auto) You can still access the INFINITI intouch system for all the o.g stuff    P.S i got new non Polarization Sunglasses too 😎 
    • I also don't mean to rain on your parade. But with a 5-10k budget for road only? I'd want to check confirmation that everything IS working correctly and I'm with @GTSBoy for a plan of action here. I'd be checking subframes, bushes, exhaust hangers, interior bits and generally QOL things and CONFIRMING they are working right before thinking about motor. You can get 250KW+ on stock RB26 hardware by simply removing the built in restrictors and tuning the stock ECU. If you want purity that's as far to take it, which I would be worried to do and won't think the budget would allow for when earnestly checking for 30+ year old car stuff.
    • I specifically said buy new performance car because of the use case here (i.e, no track use and fun livable everything/do it all easily if not especially amazing as a drivers car). Tracking an 80K Skyline and an 80K M2 makes the BMW the obviously more risky purchase WHEN something goes wrong you suddenly can't easily fix it with hand tools and readily available parts that you may have a community of people you know available, or years of your own knowledge on the platform to apply. There's reasons you see Hondas and Vettes and RB's and Miatas and such at tracks, you can easily hand-tool repair 99.9% of it in a shed, usually with the tools and the skillset of the owner to apply to it. An i30N is not going to beat a R chassis unless it's got massive problems either. The old cars can, and still do work great. The problem is - and always has been - social media would have you believe it's simple and easy to achieve the results you see online.  People want their car to be like "one of those cool JDM cars" which is the default image people have when they think of  "cool JDM cars" You are paying 25 years of catchup R&D to achieve. Or the knowledge somebody else has to do it for you, which is big dollar restomod stuff.  The bar has been moved and every R chassis that people see/like/enjoy has 25 years of R&D thrown at it, or is owned by someone who did all that work and has that knowledge over the past 25 years. All the survivors have been progressively resto-modded the entire time. OR you slowly bring it back to how it was stock. Which is also prohibitively expensive, done for the love of it. This is what the JDM community is now. This is fine, but "Where do I start?" is either: 1) Don't 2) Take your own slow journey but you cannot compare your progress with others who have had 25 years of R&D and experience building their own cars unless you pay for it.
    • Yep, with the crazy inflation of the value of our cars these past couple of years this became a problem for me too... My solution is to transition to bikes. Everything feels so cheap compared to tracking the skyline lol
    • So, I've been a little busy on this car. I replaced the bonnet struts which is always satisfying but very confusing that nobody else on the planet seems to do this. Its just my routine first thing I do on any car I buy. The boot struts for both the tailgate and the separately opening glass window was a bastard. And, I found a fair bit of rust in the strut cavity. I filled it with rust converter and cleaned up as much of the dirt as I could. There was so much dirt. One piece of the trim was barely hanging on and so I've left it off. I'll try to get a replacement. You can see how disgusting and dirty it all was in this thread; I had to remove the little clips that hold the struts on the ball. The ones I took off had no clips and it was impossible to get them on with them in place. Fingers crossed they stay put. So, I turned my attention to the headlights, they were in a bad way and likely would stop rego. I took the headlights out and found the adjusters were all just loose. So, I fixed those and unclipped the lenses to clean them up. Couldn't believe how easy it was to take all this apart compared to the E90.   I also cleaned up the stockies which was awesome, these are super cool with lug nut covers. They're in good nic but the tyres are shot. I was going to use these for rego but in the end got a fresh pair of rubber for the 17's on the front of the car instead. The front bar of this car is from a late(r) model one. I don't think it's quite LCI but who knows. I'll need to find out. Anyway, the bar was missing the fog lights and the wiring and plugs were for the original ones so I got new plugs and some cheap fogs. I wasn't sure if missing original equipment would hamper my blue slip attempts. Had a couple of these little fellas helping out. But not Ben who got stuck behind the pool heater .... How embarressment.  I ordered new speed sensors for all corners because I knew one was out. I just got cheapies and will replace them with Bosch items when I can find Bosch items. Again, this was just for rego. Alas, it seems the blue speed sensors are not the same as the grey ones. Back they went and replacements ordered. In the end, with my new scan tool, it was just rear left that was shot. Replaced it and cleared the codes. All good now. Lastly, my aux (thermo) fan is being a bit odd. Its powering up at strange times and NOT powering up when I think it should (100C). While this can be caused by a few things, the most likely (for me) is the ambient temp sensor. Given mine reads -40.0C regardless of the temp, I figured it would be good to replace it. In the end, the sensor wiring was abysmal with (terrible) attempts made by somebody to fix it.   I fixed this all up but the sensor is only attached using pins into the wires. The plug is not there. Despite trying and trying to connect it securely it wouldn't work so a replacement sensor and plug is on the way. Oh, I also ordered a replacement piece of trim for the part missing here at the bottom. Ordered from Latvia for $70 delivered. I took a bit of a leap of faith because I didn't have the exact part number and, as usual, there were eleventy billion pieces of trim that looked to fit. Nailed it. Well, its not totally perfect but I think its more a 28 y/o car problem than a trim problem. And, as of today ..... I have bought the workshop manuals 2nd hand off a guy in tassie. 1000+ pages of E39 goodness, hopefully it helps me with the fan. I also have a new temp switch on the way incase its the problem. Stoked.
×
×
  • Create New...