Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The reason being I do not wana leave my car at any shop for more than a day ( I know it can be done in a day by a gun fabricator/mech/welder) and as you said above, the cost implications, but it shouldn't be expensive for some bits of welding and fiddling around... As for selling my jjr dump for $200, I bought it for $179 brand new lol......... And no defects mate, I'm not into screamers, plumb back's for me.

I meant to say its NOT going to cost a bucket load, wasn't concentrating.

You're going to find out the hard way that modifying your car is a process that takes time. You swap out injectors, afm, turbo and get it tuned; you're going to be without your car for more than a day. You can't do without your car then you can't modify it, you need to sort something out anway.

As for defects etc. an aftermarket internally gated turbo is just as illegal as an externally gated one. Just do it properly.

having a stupid looking car and driving it like a stupid then being stupid when you are confronted by popo will probably get you defected just for being stupid,

before an external gate will get you defected for having an external gate...

having a stupid looking car and driving it like a stupid then being stupid when you are confronted by popo will probably get you defected just for being stupid,

before an external gate will get you defected for having an external gate...

Lol at ARTZ, that little blue three wheeler on your avatar will surely get you defected mate. For 'driving an extraordinary and potentially dangerous car on public roads'..

Kando's turbos are great. My girlfriends sister has been running a td05-20g on her sr for a year with no dramas and cops a flogging more then often and my mate has had a kando td06 on his rb20 for nearly 6 months now pushing 27 psi on track days and smashes the fkuc out of it and no signs of smoke,shaft play or anything else yet,very happy with a 800$ delivered to door turbo.

Kando's turbos are great. My girlfriends sister has been running a td05-20g on her sr for a year with no dramas and cops a flogging more then often and my mate has had a kando td06 on his rb20 for nearly 6 months now pushing 27 psi on track days and smashes the fkuc out of it and no signs of smoke,shaft play or anything else yet,very happy with a 800$ delivered to door turbo.

awesome, can u tell me what rpm range the TD05 starts spooling on the SR. I just bought a TD05H 18G for $600 shipped. If u pay outside ebay he will knock about $100 off it.

Kando's turbos are great. My girlfriends sister has been running a td05-20g on her sr for a year with no dramas and cops a flogging more then often and my mate has had a kando td06 on his rb20 for nearly 6 months now pushing 27 psi on track days and smashes the fkuc out of it and no signs of smoke,shaft play or anything else yet,very happy with a 800$ delivered to door turbo.

What sort of power are they both making?

Kando's turbos are great. My girlfriends sister has been running a td05-20g on her sr for a year with no dramas and cops a flogging more then often and my mate has had a kando td06 on his rb20 for nearly 6 months now pushing 27 psi on track days and smashes the fkuc out of it and no signs of smoke,shaft play or anything else yet,very happy with a 800$ delivered to door turbo.

27 psi that's a bit drastic did you mean 17 psi? Mine didn't make any more power after 22 pound I'm fairly sure Roy found that to.

1.9ish bar of boost?

Pretty sure these (TD05,06, T67 and their like) wouldn't be able to flow more than 1.7bar (which is what trust quote for similar frame misti's, I would assume that the Kando are much the same). They seem to run out of their efficiency at around 1.5ish IIRC.

Edited by Wheezy

I just read through this whole thread, very interesting read and long lol.

has anybody actually had a td06sl2 20g(external gate) tuned running yet?

also I know a 8cm rear housing is a little small for a rb25 but has anybody out there tried one? Im considering it as I already have a trust td06 kit which needs a rebuild and its a 14cm rear lol, so I want to get a 10cm but Kando/kinugawa dosent have them in 3 bolt flanges. So am considering getting a TD06sl2 20g and running it with a 8cm untill I can find a 10cm turbine housing to swap onto it........ thoughts???? Note im also waiting on a reply to a email if they can get me a 10cm 3 bolt but its the second email and so far no luck

Unless somebody out there has a 10cm and wants a 8cm or a 14cm I could buy the same turbo and swap housings I guess

That won't fix my problem, I have a trust exhaust manifold so I need the mitsu housing ( same as Roy ) unless I change the flange on the manifold, which I don't want to do

Edited by JLTS13

That won't fix my problem, I have a trust exhaust manifold so I need the mitsu housing ( same as Roy ) unless I change the flange on the manifold, which I don't want to do

Sounds fine. You will be able to get a 12cm item which should work nice. A little laggier but hey... Cant have everything lol.

If search TD06 triangle housing, you will find the Kando listings for the item. Sometimes they have Kinugawa in the description also.

If you need help determining which housing to get its simple, measure the outer diameter of your turbine wheel. 61mm SL2, 65mm Standard TD06, 67mm TD06H.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes correct. Also, I'd avoid applying it to soft paint (however I doubt you'll ever have to deal with it in practice). So any paint that hasn't fully hardened, could be a 1k paint that never fully hardened or it could be a 2k paint that was laid down thick and hasn't yet fully hardened. 
    • Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
    • I recently purchased a 2018 Infiniti Q60, which has an SD card navigation map. I can see my system has options for real time traffic updates etc, and am wondering if there is something I can purchase to get this working? I can see there are at least updated maps for USA and Canada, but nothing for Australia. Surely Infiniti took changing road systems and city expansions into account when they decided to use an inbuilt navigation over Android Auto/Apple Car Play, or are we doomed to drive on streets that don't exist in the navigation system if you drive to a new area?
    • Luckily I didn't put in etch primer as I just found out it's not compatible with my body filler lol. Also just need to sand the panel anywhere between 150-400 grit so I'm in the clear there. It does say to not apply to soft old paint, I assume that means paint that is flaking, peeling,etc
×
×
  • Create New...