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well its either an 8cm or a 12cm for you, id say 12cm will still be less than optimal for drift but 8cm might just work.

I seem to say this a lot but if you read the entire thread you will find some comment on 8cm variants on RB25s throughout. Earlier in the thread status actually commented on how an 8cm T67 acts on an RB25...

I can only assume the SL2 wheel in an 8cm housing will work easier being driven by a 20g than it would a 25 :) now time to read the entire thread.

well its either an 8cm or a 12cm for you, id say 12cm will still be less than optimal for drift but 8cm might just work.

I seem to say this a lot but if you read the entire thread you will find some comment on 8cm variants on RB25s throughout. Earlier in the thread status actually commented on how an 8cm T67 acts on an RB25...

I can only assume the SL2 wheel in an 8cm housing will work easier being driven by a 20g than it would a 25 :) now time to read the entire thread.

yeah we used to use alot of 8cm instead of 10cm but the small gain in response is countered by the massive loss in mid and high end torque. will post a comparo on friday when im back at the shop. Its uprising how much the 8cm holds the turbo back on a 2.5 litre.

yeah we used to use alot of 8cm instead of 10cm but the small gain in response is countered by the massive loss in mid and high end torque. will post a comparo on friday when im back at the shop. Its uprising how much the 8cm holds the turbo back on a 2.5 litre.

This is good timing, a decision I've been pondering fits well into this actually. I'm helping with a budget build of a turbo Honda running an F20B engine (basically destroked H22A, makes 147kw stock) which will be running ~11psi - I have been seriously considering recommending one of these turbos with an 8cm hotside for it.

I know on an RB25 would better suit a larger housing given you'd be pumping more boost into etc, but what about a slightly smaller engine which flows similar to the RB25 but will be running lower boost - do you think in these circumstances the 8cm may be more suiteable?

As normal, aims are for a reliable turbo which isn't too laggy and particularly in the case of a +T type build, keep intake temps and exhaust pressure nice and engine friendly.

there is a car you should look at on NS called JET200. Its nothing special but it documents the guys experience with a T67 on an SR. I think he ended up wanting shorter gearing and a much higher rev limit despite notable gains when going down to an 8cm housing.

What's the power goals of the Honda? In any event I think the T67 isn't a great option at 11psi anyway.

Ahh I mixed Jez and Status' post and thought the latest talk was about TD06 20G setups.

I was thinking a 20G with 8cm housing, car is currently running some kind of Ebay GT3582R look alike turbo which is both very laggy and potentially a grenade. Really anything thats nicer to drive and going to be reliable would be good, obviously T3 flanged a must.

I'm going to be tuning it on a Dynapack, so should be looking at easily >220kw on 11psi.

I will be tuning an internal td06 20g next week, but this one is different, the customer has removed alot of material to make the flow alot better out of the normally poor flowing gate.

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Interesting to see the results. Good work on giving it a go. I would think you could get away with milling out all the centre/bridge and drilling and tapping an additional bolt hole for mounting a big bellmouth dump pipe. Or are you going to try and split the the gate and turbine gases?

Something makes me think that central bridge is the restriction itself..All those exhaust gases flowing out of the exhaust housing and wastegate hole would be at some point partly hitting that bridge, deflecting off it and being a restriction to the overall gas flow, hence more force required by the engine to push them out = less power / crappy internal gate housing design.. Just thoughts.pinch.gif

I cant believe this is even a debate. Its a 300 pesos manifold ffs. Nobody in their right mind is going to say its as good as the high end stuff.

What it is though is great value for money for the builder on a budget,I used it simply because it was convenient at the time. Pluses outweigh the negatives as far as I'm concerned.

A. price

B. performance

C. durability

As the dyno showed all these twats saying angle this and angle that are just that...twats. the manifold flows without restriction, If exhaust gas flowed in the opposite dierection the merge collector would be far more relevant, as it is 6 pipes feed in to the exhaust housing regardless of the shape of the merge.

I've run up 5 k on it so far. Its rock solid, no warping cracking leaking or shifting whatsoever.

Would I use one on my big engine...No. Plain and simple. Not because I m afraid it wouldnt work, merely because I cant get my head around a cheap job for a high end engine.

Bang for buck this is one of the best mods I have done to date.

Would be interesting if someone could mill out the bridge on those internal gates and weld a 6 bolt flange on there like stao does with the hypergears.

GTS scott, i can't get NS on my computer , what was the deal with JET 200?, did it pick up power with a 8 cm vs 10cm housing on the Sr20?

cheers

darren

Ahh I mixed Jez and Status' post and thought the latest talk was about TD06 20G setups.

I was thinking a 20G with 8cm housing, car is currently running some kind of Ebay GT3582R look alike turbo which is both very laggy and potentially a grenade. Really anything thats nicer to drive and going to be reliable would be good, obviously T3 flanged a must.

I'm going to be tuning it on a Dynapack, so should be looking at easily >220kw on 11psi.

Thinking about it further, does any of the Kando/Mitsi peoples think a TD06SL2-18G with 8cm housing could even work well for this setup - this is on a 2litre VTEC Honda running ~11psi for anyone who missed the first post I made about this.

Interesting to see the results. Good work on giving it a go. I would think you could get away with milling out all the centre/bridge and drilling and tapping an additional bolt hole for mounting a big bellmouth dump pipe. Or are you going to try and split the the gate and turbine gases?

I suggested that but he welded the blocking plate back on so still running the 3 bolt flange. He thinks he will gain a fair bit.

Will see when i tune it

Thinking about it further, does any of the Kando/Mitsi peoples think a TD06SL2-18G with 8cm housing could even work well for this setup - this is on a 2litre VTEC Honda running ~11psi for anyone who missed the first post I made about this.

From what I know the SL2 18g gives a more linear delivery than its 20g counterpart. But the only videos I have seen have been on mildly tuned 1JZ's. The outcome was as fast as the 20g from memory, but more of a passive aggressive approach rather than the brutal hit of the 20g.

Either way, your now talking about a result that doesnt warrant a big dirty TD06SL2 wheel. Here:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-3-Anti-Surge-TD05H-18G-w-T3-8cm-V-Band-External-Gate-Hsg-/290677530717?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43adbb205d

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