Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I get my content woes/information down a short grape vine from the very top of CAMS hierarchy. Not that it changes anything, but like I've said before we all form our opinions somehow.

Not a good source for information imo. Too many kickbacks from the race fuel industry perhaps?

Trent has tuned countless times with Eflex and C16 with little difference in performance or safety. I know which one I would rather pay for in my daily...

My kando/kamak T67-25G 10cm finally turned up today after a few delays, Compressor housing hits rocker cover so RB20's will go on, weld V-band and wastegate off exhaust housing tomorrow.

RB25/30, fresh rebuild

stock rb30e piston & rod

stock RB20in RB25ex cams, No VCT

ebay stainless manifold

Freddy plenum

80mm throttle

Tial 44mm MVR

Apexi Power FC

Splitfires coilpacks

Nismo 750cc

Modified twin feed rail

Twin bosch 044 pumps

Surge Tank

E85/Eflex fuel

Previously GT3076R :yes:

Not a good source for information imo. Too many kickbacks from the race fuel industry perhaps?

Trent has tuned countless times with Eflex and C16 with little difference in performance or safety. I know which one I would rather pay for in my daily...

Your probably not wrong, I wont go there for now. Hate 'he said she said's', especially on the net lol. V8s did end up going E85 though, but with the guaranteed content CSR shit.

I have heard reports that eflex is fairly consistent at the e70 mark.. But I just cant get past the fact its a varying content fuel. Like I said in the HG thread, I fully believe in it as long as its used with a content sensor.

Once it properly rolls out in NSW and is available everywhere I will honestly be buying a flex capable ecu and getting it tuned on that :)

My kando/kamak T67-25G 10cm finally turned up today after a few delays, Compressor housing hits rocker cover so RB20's will go on, weld V-band and wastegate off exhaust housing tomorrow.

RB25/30, fresh rebuild

stock rb30e piston & rod

stock RB20in RB25ex cams, No VCT

ebay stainless manifold

Freddy plenum

80mm throttle

Tial 44mm MVR

Apexi Power FC

Splitfires coilpacks

Nismo 750cc

Modified twin feed rail

Twin bosch 044 pumps

Surge Tank

E85/Eflex fuel

Previously GT3076R :yes:

INSANE

Hi guys

After a little help and thoughts on the set up Im thinking of changing to. Its an SR20DET in my 180sx currently running a 2871r 56trim .64exh with HKS step 2 264/264 cams and supporting mods, it makes 268 rwkw on 18psi tuned on E10 100oct.

Im looking at going to the Kinugawa TDO6SL2-20G T3 V band 8cm high mount with Tial 38mm external gate.

So a few Q's

Will this get me close to 300 rwkw on 18-20psi?

Should I look at the 10cm housing or stick with the 8cm?

Will the 38mm gate be big enough on an SR?

Im keen to keep full boost of 18-20psi around 4000rpm.

Thanks for any input.

Cheers

Edited by slippylotion

Found a cheap Evo turbo td05-16g I can get 2 for a catch can would these be any good on a 26

I have a twin td05 kit off a rb26 , in memory it made close to 400 rwk and ran a 10sec quarter , I'm about to put one on a rb20 , hoping to see 200rwk

Is there a difference in sizes between a T2 8cm housing and a T3 8cm housing?

I know obviously the T3 flange is bigger but does this also mean the total volume is also bigger. So is a T3 8cm sort of the equevilent of a T2 10cm?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Way more than 1cm. Appreciate the advice maybe I try changing the bushing first
    • IMG_8641.mov     She doesn’t sound the best but starts with out using any gas now. I just ran some injector cleaner through her. started roughly the first time after adding it but gave it the beans slowly upto 4k, Must have cleaned a few cobwebs out. another step in the right direction for the sub
    • Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it. Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical. Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in
    • Let's just fix the problem by f**king the rest of the gearbox.
    • Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.
×
×
  • Create New...