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Kando Dynamics Turbo

SimonR32

By SimonR32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Dale FZ1
Dale FZ1

My 30DET is now running TDO6H 25G, budget build with Hybrid manifold and 50mm Turbosmart gate. Turbine is the 11 blade option with 12cm housing. Tighe camshafts correctly dialled. Track car, chasin

R31Nismoid
R31Nismoid

And r33_racer or whatever also had around that figure too? Maybe it was 380? (struggling to recall)

T04GTR
T04GTR

are theese rubbish china turbos with a badge thats made in japan?

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SimonR32 Grand Master

SimonR32

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I need to spend less time on SAU and more time tuning my drifter aye :)

Been flat out with work. As u all know customers come first before my own cars. Well unless theres a race meet on.

Use excuse that tuning the drifter is good advertising... Good advertising = More customers

Have to spend money to make money :)

Just tune it farken! :thumbsup:

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

Use excuse that tuning the drifter is good advertising... Good advertising = More customers

Have to spend money to make money :)

Just tune it farken! :thumbsup:

This. Then stock up on a bolt on kit consisting of:

Kando

Tial 44

NZ manifold

Dump

Intake

Cooler pipe

Then customers can drop off their car and you can install the kit PLUS tune it. Start emailing Suppliers of those parts (and a boily) and organise a 10 batch buy at discounted rates, pass on some of the discount to your customers with KICK ASS labour charge and your off n racing!

GOLD

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

does anyone wanna buy a TD06 3" turbo front cover? lol

For potential buyers it is actually over $100 cheaper to buy the turbo in parts (cover/core/turbine housing) than it is to buy it complete.

I think there was a dude a few pages back showing his mates one with a 2.4" neck, I rekon he would want your 3".

tumblr_ldp3jukzHo1qb9a2wo1_500.png

urtwhistle Proficient

urtwhistle

Posted
Posted

You might save $100 but you then need to assemble and balance the turbo. So I would get a price on balancing it prior to buying it in peices.

For potential buyers it is actually over $100 cheaper to buy the turbo in parts (cover/core/turbine housing) than it is to buy it complete.

I think there was a dude a few pages back showing his mates one with a 2.4" neck, I rekon he would want your 3".

tumblr_ldp3jukzHo1qb9a2wo1_500.png

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

For potential buyers it is actually over $100 cheaper to buy the turbo in parts (cover/core/turbine housing) than it is to buy it complete.

I think there was a dude a few pages back showing his mates one with a 2.4" neck, I rekon he would want your 3".

tumblr_ldp3jukzHo1qb9a2wo1_500.png

Does that include oil/water lines?

stocker Enthusiast

stocker

Posted
Posted (edited)

You might save $100 but you then need to assemble and balance the turbo. So I would get a price on balancing it prior to buying it in peices.

what $100 for a balance..................the cores/wheels are already balanced

Edited by stocker
GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

i think the surge cover will definitely fix my issue (at least i hope it will lol) :)

only time will tell.

They are right in saying keep it for now man, Lith did say the VCT could be your issue.

Remember changing the cam timing alters the motors effective VE, just like opening the throttle does. (makes the motor more efficient)

That being said different VE = different area of the graph at given RPM/boost.

CFM = L x RPM x VE x Pr

5660

So watch this..

2.5 x 4000 x 90 x 2.5 / 5660 = 397.5 CFM

Now look here (Ive picked 97% as a random number as an example):

2.5 x 4000 x 97 x 2.5 / 5660 = 428.45 CFM

= Higher CFM, meaning further to the right of the comp map. If that doesnt make sense, I did you a graph. Remember that the outermost limit of the map on the LEFT side is surge and the RIGHT side is heat (excessive heat).

Remember also, these are rough calculations.. The VE could be lower or the comp map could be a little mis represented.. Either way, a rough calculation shows the motor is pretty damn close to the surge line at 4000 rpm.

post-43588-0-39712500-1333524737_thumb.gif

Now plot it yourself at 3700 RPM where you probably are hitting 20psi and watch it come even closer if not cross the line.

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

Balancing in the east must be cheap as chips then.

sorry mate the point here is the Kando chra's comes built and balanced. you then just buy the housings and lines.

i hope that clears it up for you

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