Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hoping for a extra power everywhere above 4000rpm and maybe a tad extra down low :)

Do you have access to a data logger for before runs? If you want I can send over a simple GPS logger so you can map gs and speed so that you can get a feel for in gear acceleration and response. Something a dyno wont pick up

I have read a few people say that Nistune are decent enough but have their limitations. Is there a performance reason behind the change to Vipec from Nistune or just a question of more functionality?

I'm waiting on battery to see how he goes with the billet love... but it may be an option down the road!

Or see the difference a better flowing turbine will make :whistling:

Do you have access to a data logger for before runs? If you want I can send over a simple GPS logger so you can map gs and speed so that you can get a feel for in gear acceleration and response. Something a dyno wont pick up

I have read a few people say that Nistune are decent enough but have their limitations. Is there a performance reason behind the change to Vipec from Nistune or just a question of more functionality?

Or see the difference a better flowing turbine will make :whistling:

I have trackaroo that tracks speed via gps but I find that the 1hz GPS updating of the phone is a bit of a fail so even if there was a difference you wouldn't be able to tell... Regardless I doubt seat of pants feel will change much, it'll go from shitting yourself to still shitting yourself haha

I'll try and get back down the 1/4 for the black top dyno run but I have faith the hubber should show the differences.

There is nothing at all wrong with the Nistune, it's more getting itchy feet. I would prefer the AFM gone as it's the last link in the blown cooler pipe chain saga. The addition of heaps more funcitons (proper VCT control, boost control and many other functions) is what tipped it over the edge. But mainly just ditching the AFM :)

I would love to give the bigger turbine wheel a go... The reason I gave up on the idea is because I knew that even if the result was better, I would still have to change back to the original turbo and just way too much effort (I'm lazy)

I would love to give the bigger turbine wheel a go... The reason I gave up on the idea is because I knew that even if the result was better, I would still have to change back to the original turbo and just way too much effort (I'm lazy)

Completely understand. I just need an oil pump and somewhere that will do reasonably priced inlet flanges and I could find out about turbos myself soon enough :)

Re data logger. I have a little QStarz 10hz logger for when I am in hire cars and other peoples cars that if you think it will give acceleration etc you can borrow

Completely understand. I just need an oil pump and somewhere that will do reasonably priced inlet flanges and I could find out about turbos myself soon enough :)

Re data logger. I have a little QStarz 10hz logger for when I am in hire cars and other peoples cars that if you think it will give acceleration etc you can borrow

Where did you get it from? I've been looking but can't find one jew cheap :)

Been looking at simonR32's pic's & I know centre mounting flange is different but housing size?

Is mine a 10 cm rear, as no marking's on housing?

Simon's

post-58828-0-57899100-1335267846_thumb.jpg

Mine

post-58828-0-38570900-1335267926_thumb.jpg

Edited by 32TAXI

Where did you get it from? I've been looking but can't find one jew cheap :)

I got mine from racerecall.com . It does the job, but I don't think it is as good as a Driftbox etc but then again is cheaper so performs the basic job I ask of it.

Whats the idea behind logging hire cars?

Well when you are hiring them and flogging them around the track when you are on holidays :) LOL, that how I know what a Swift can do around the combined GP Circuit-Nordschleife etc etc :)

Been looking at simonR32's pic's & I know centre mounting flange is different but housing size?

Is mine a 10 cm rear, as no marking's on housing?

Simon's

post-58828-0-57899100-1335267846_thumb.jpg

Mine

post-58828-0-38570900-1335267926_thumb.jpg

My rear housing is v-band to the centre cartridge while yours is bolted.... I think that is the difference! Looks like that is the difference between 8cm and 10cm by browsing ebay. What did you order?

Looks like you're almost ready for a tune?

Edited by SimonR32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A lot of what you said there are fair observations and part of why I made that list, to make some of these things (like no advantage between the GSeries and GSeries II at PR2.4 in a lot of cases) however I'm not fully convinced by other comments.  One thing to bare in mind is that compressor flow maps are talking about MASS flow, in terms of the compressor side you shouldn't end up running more or less airflow vs another compressor map for the same advertised flow if all external environmental conditions are equivalent if the compressor efficiency is lower as that advertised mass flow takes that into consideration.   Once the intercooler becomes involved the in-plenum air temperature shouldn't be that different, either... the main thing that is likely to affect the end power is the final exhaust manifold pressure - which *WILL* go up when you run out of compressor efficiency when you run off the map earlier on the original G-Series versus G-Series II as you need to keep the gate shut to achieve similar airflow.    Also, how do you figure response based off surge line?  I've seen people claim that as an absolute fact before but am pretty sure I've seen compressors with worse surge lines actually "stand up" faster (and ironically be more likely to surge), I'm not super convinced - it's really a thing we won't easily be able to determine until people start using them.     There are some things on the maps that actually make me wonder if there is a chance that they may respond no worse... if not BETTER?!  which brings me to your next point... Why G2 have lower max rpm?  Really good question and I've been wondering about this too.  The maximum speed *AND* the compressor maps both look like what I'd normally expect if Garrett had extended the exducers out, but they claim the same inducer and exducer size for the whole range.   If you compare the speed lines between any G and G2 version the G2 speed lines support higher flow for the same compressor speed, kinda giving a pretty clear "better at pumping more air for the same speed" impression. Presumably the exducer includes any extended tip design instead of just the backplate, but nonetheless I'd love to see good pics/measurements of the G2 compressors as everything kinda points to something different about the exducer - specifically that it must be further out from the centerline, which means a lower rpm for the same max tip speed and often also results in higher pressure ratio efficiency, narrower maps, and often actually can result in better spool vs a smaller exducer for the same inducer size... no doubt partly due to the above phenomenon of needing less turbine speed to achieve the same airflow when using a smaller trim. Not sure if this is just camera angle or what, but this kinda looks interesting on the G35 990 compressor tips: Very interested to see what happens when people start testing these, and if we start getting more details about what's different.
    • I know right. It baffled me. There's no way when the engine is off, key is in ignition, (coils are dissconnected aswell), also my sound system was dissconnected (I don't run any audio capacitors), battery reads 12.2v and with the 10amp fuse blown I was measuring 24 to 30v. The reading would move a bit from 30v to 24v which was weird. I took a pic of the multi meter reading 🤣: (This is a brand new single channel digital oscilloscope that also has a multi meter mode).   Before when the fuse was blown, I had one lead on the 12v supply (green/white wires) of that brown relay and the other lead on the negative battery terminal. When I turned the key on ignition (engine off), it would read 30v. Then when I removed that relay from it's plug and tried putting ignition on again, it would read 12v, but I think it's because it can't turn on the ecu now that I removed it. I asked Chatgpt and this is what it had to say:   Not sure if those theories would be possible but, any auto sparkies here? welcome to confirm. 🤷‍♂️  No idea, but if it happens again, atleast I know what type of issue it is, unlike last few months where I didn't know what was causing all my issues and I was just taking stabs in the dark to figure out what type of problem it was. If it does happen again I'm going to investigate futher and trace back the source even more and inspect more circuits. I drove it to work this morning and the car drove and boosted fine. Yeah I was thinking the same, so I've imported my back up saved map (which is the map that I saved when it got done tuning) back onto my haltech with the base fuel pressure set to 43.5psi.
    • Yeh nice, if your in melbourne could you recommend any exhaust shops in the east that do a good job?
    • Sorry yes, this is what im after Also, that jpjdm site appears to be offline
×
×
  • Create New...