Jump to content
SAU Community

Kando Dynamics Turbo


SimonR32

Recommended Posts

lol I doubt it ron. The innards of most braided oil lines is that small anyway mate.

Keep in mind that an oil feed restrictor for BB turbos is normally half a mm (0.5mm) or similar.

Thanks man, only half a mm??? Shhxxxxxxx! Thats small aye..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are 2 ways to do the oil feed for that turbo.

1: A standard 2 bolt T3/T4 fitting like what Ron has bought

2: use a 1/8 NPT male to -4AN male adapter and then the same kit Ron bought but with the 2 bolt flange removed. The 90 degree fitting at the end of the line is -4AN.

The difference between options is $10 worth of alloy NPT adapter... HOWEVER I have found those NPT fittings to be quite soft and I wouldnt want shrapnel in Rons motor at the hands of an overzealous first timer.

So option 1 it was!

lol, cool, i'll get one..im just as bad as ron and you for turbo decisions..lol, but i just bought a nz side mount and are going to get the same 5558 and run gate of ex housing, have 260 ponnies and inject 500cc of water/ meth and see how it goes..i just got my auto trans built, its rated to 350rwkw, and i can only get a 3000rpm converter and still retain lock up...so downsizing from 3540..just need to sell it now..

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31
Link to comment
Share on other sites

LOL nice, I do see that you traul the same threads we do haha. Glad to see more PT results are going to filter through now tho. I was so tempted to jump on one too, but cost and simplicity won in the end (read GF won in the end). Im confident the SS1PU will get me what I want for now and my motor will be built for up to 600whp, so I can always go bigger if funds permit later down the track.

As a quick update to my build I do have my SS1PU at home already, and just finished my buy on all motor parts. Am running CP pistons, manley rods, ACL race bearings, Tomei Poncams, BC cam gears/valve springs/titanium retainers, ARP head studs and all genuine nissan chains/pumps/guides and bolts.

Once the final bits and pieces arrive in the mail over the next 2 weeks I'll be playing lego and will probably pop up some photos somewhere on here. Fingers crossed for a very responsive 250kw.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

LOL nice, I do see that you traul the same threads we do haha. Glad to see more PT results are going to filter through now tho. I was so tempted to jump on one too, but cost and simplicity won in the end (read GF won in the end). Im confident the SS1PU will get me what I want for now and my motor will be built for up to 600whp, so I can always go bigger if funds permit later down the track.

As a quick update to my build I do have my SS1PU at home already, and just finished my buy on all motor parts. Am running CP pistons, manley rods, ACL race bearings, Tomei Poncams, BC cam gears/valve springs/titanium retainers, ARP head studs and all genuine nissan chains/pumps/guides and bolts.

Once the final bits and pieces arrive in the mail over the next 2 weeks I'll be playing lego and will probably pop up some photos somewhere on here. Fingers crossed for a very responsive 250kw.

With that sort of internal parts you could go 250rwkw X 2 or 3 and still be grinning ear to ear with the same confidence...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Semi agree for 2x but not 3 lol.

The CP's are top quality pistons so I'm not worried there at all. The Manley rods are rated as good for 175hp each, which is 700 total. ACL race bearings are used in much higher HP application and the stock crank again has been used in much higher HP cars also.

I havent studded the crank tunnel and the block is not going to be grout filled so I will say the safe limit of this motor will be roughly 400kw. If 500kw was available I would push it there but I would expect it to lunch a rod at the first sign of WOT detonation.

If I was to redo it in a couple of years (for the 400kw mark) I would lift the head again and do a 3 angle valve grind with stronger valves, opening up the ports a touch while im at it. I havent touched the ports this time around and valves have been left 180xxxKM proven.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you get a oil drain aswell Ron, looks like they use the 50.8 spacing T3 one..if i had a bet i would have lost....

i thought they would be GT30 line/drain based for sure

Can't believe you can buy this shit so cheap and don't even have to make it..wasn't long ago you had to buy

a piece of pipe or get a offcut and a flange and make a drain for f**ks sake..to buy a nice bit of braided rubber for a drain costs more than the kit ffs...lol

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31
Link to comment
Share on other sites

LOL yeaaappp. How good is it?

FYI Kando sell the same item for a T3/T4 oil drain as they do for an RB stock turbo. My bet is that the stock oil drain, with the possibility of a slight elongate on the holes, will bolt straight on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I hope it (stock oil drain) bolts on as Im relying on your advice Jase! Lol. Just opened and tried the kit on the turbo-yes it bolts on of course, top quality item man, the oil line hole size is bigger than the hole in the oil restrictor flange which is tiny, the oil hole in the turbo is even bigger but is threaded/ why?? I think I will have the oil flange/ restrictor hole drilled out to the oil line hole size for peace of mind..:S anyone done this?

Edited by rondofj
Link to comment
Share on other sites

lol no dont drill out the hole dude.. its fine as manufactured.

The oil line can be done in 2 ways on the PT, either with the threaded hole or the 2 bolt flange. Seeing as the 2 bolt flange came in one easy kit we went with that for yours. Instead of buying multiple components to do the same job.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This thread is turning gay... Thanks ron!

On the way back from Powercruise I did a few 4th gear pulls and was gettting 15psi (1bar) by 3200rpm so it's 300rpm better with the Tomei Poncams and Vipec combo than when I had Nistune/Z32 and stock cams

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got mine tuned today. 380rwhp @ 17psi. We had problems all over the place getting it running, once those were sorted then had issues with trying to tune it with the ECU not playing the game with the TPS. The guys did an awesome job in the end and we called it a day as just run out of time.

So thats the T67 with antisurge, NZ manifold, Tial 44mm MVR, Stock inlet manifold/TB and 98 oct.

Will post a sheet when i get it, was in a rush to get home so forgot it. Haven't driven it yet, just got home as i live 3hrs from the tuners and she's still on the trailer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So thats the T67 with antisurge, NZ manifold, Tial 44mm MVR, Stock inlet manifold/TB and 98 oct.

Should be able to tell if you and your mate with the anti surge 76 patrol go wizzing by then ;) can clearly hear him go past every evening.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Should be able to tell if you and your mate with the anti surge 76 patrol go wizzing by then ;) can clearly hear him go past every evening.

And if you hear one whistle and then a really obnoxiously loud SR20 he's driving his Silvia then and im in mine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lol so the antisurge worked ok then msports? thats good feedback to have

Seemed to have yeah, it is BS loud when your standing right next to it though on the dyno. I'll take it for a drive this arvo and gauge the response.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...