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Kando Dynamics Turbo


SimonR32

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Looking at geting a Kando turbo for my HR31 Drift car.

Eng rb20 R32 motor

Aside from the usual exhaust, Fmic, injectors head gasket and studs nistune ect

it has Kelford 258 cams

Was previously running a VG 30 turbo 45v4 front 71 V rear and was happy with it made 209 KW at 15 lb with no drop off in boost in the top end

After 3 years of abuse it finaly lost the rear wheel

the two turbos I had in mind were either TD05H - 18G or TDO5H- 20G

The plan is to buy an external gated version, and run either a 40 or 45 mm Turbo smart external gate out of the turbine housing as I have seen the internally gated turbos either be lazy or be unable to controll boost. The turbo will be on the Factory manafold.

Im after the turbo that will be the most responive and make 240 ish kw on 98 pump fuel on a Mainline dyno. Am i in the ball park with either of these turbos?

on the site there is a billet wheel option on the 18G is this any better than the std 18G?

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For the effort you are much better off sending your blown vg30 item to hypergear. 900 later and it will bolt straight back on, just get it retuned and party on.

by the time you set up your gate etc you will have put a hole in more than double the money. The differences in performance is anyone's guess but most likely not worth it.

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I am yet to see any hi-flow turbos work really well on an RB20. Perhaps the Hypergears are different?!?! I have not really seen any results in his thread or on forums.

I would not go with a TD05H 20G myself. I run the TD06-20G and they are good for about 260-270 on a std RB20 on 98-100 RON fuel. When I switched to E85 I was able to make 310rwkws with the 20G.

I also have a spare TD05H-18G Kando that I had planned to back to back against the 20G. My expectation was it would only lose 15-20rwkws but have far nicer transient response losing some of the "big turbo" feel the 20G gave the RB20.

I subsequently spent too much money on holidays and booz and have not been able to trial the other turbos on my RB20 so if you are keen for a Kando TD05H-18G then I have one you can buy without the rear housing. In my mind I always thought they would be an almost 2530 like turbo just with the extra 15-20rwkws that 2530 couldnt quite give

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I am yet to see any hi-flow turbos work really well on an RB20. Perhaps the Hypergears are different?!?! I have not really seen any results in his thread or on forums.

Heres the graph for the older spec SS1 turbo:

http://www.digi-hardware.com/images/dynosheets/atr43/atr43ss1/r32/rb20det225rwkw.jpg

He could easily get the VG30 turbo rebuilt into the SS1PU specs (birds also got this core put into stock housings). Mine stacks on really well between 4 and 7 on my SR even without VCT, and so Im confident it will be much of a muchness on an RB20.

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I know my car has a manifold but it also has a clunky TD06-20G and comparing my thing at 4,000rpm, 5,000rpm & 6,000rpm it doesnt look that great a turbo.

RPM______TD06__Hypergear

4,000______ 135____125

5,000______228____205

6,000______245____225

My numbers are off a Mainline Dyno that people claim read low. I know it read about 15rwkws lower then where my car got tuned. I argue that std manifolds are sh1t even at this power level but everyone in this thread tells me I am wrong. I still belive it but spells out you may as well spend the extra 1K on the manifold and have a 260rwkws setup with better reponse then a hi-flow on the std manifold

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Need to consider thats the older outdated SS1, which is essentially just a 2871.

The newer SS1PU is better.

On the 45 degree day my car went as follows:

RPM______TD06__SR SS1PU

4,000______ 135____140

5,000______228____205

6,000______245____228

Bare in mind my car made 227@5000 on the base map, on a 30 degree day with 15psi of boost (whilst running in the motor). My car has also been tuned as a brand spanking new motor that will go straight on the track, and was tuned in 45 degree heat. So there is a lot more left in it.

On my current tune your car is ahead. When the time comes for a proper full power tune I doubt I will go backwards from the base maps 227@5k. Mine is a stock position turbo, running the stock manifold and an internal gate. It costed sub 1K and bolted straight on where a stock turbo would have otherwise fit.

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Food for thought. I still dont think any turbo works well on an RB20 with std manifold. SR20 only has to worry about pumping pulses from 4 cylinders not 6 so not as big a compromise with 500cc of gases fighting down a 4cyl manifold vs 333cc down a 6cyl manifold with regards to the energy that is left to spin a turbine

Also people say SR20s pins turbos harder than RB20s so ?!?!!? And your dyno is DD so if use my DD numbers (bigassumption that two different dynos in different states are similar) then it looks more like below. And that is with a track tune that iteself is down ~15rwkws of what it made with more ignition on what you can run with a street tune without having to worry about 100deg water temps and 130 oil temps. Same boost though

RPM______TD06__SR SS1PU

4,000______ 140____140

5,000______235____205

6,000______255____228

LOL, its interesting whilst hard to compare merits of turbos from different cars tuned by different people on different dynos. Going on what I have seen on RB20s, hi-flows dont generally give you a good compromise of grunt and response. Often its the response of bigger turbos with marginal improvements in grunt.

Silly RB20s are sensitive things when you try to put turbos on std manifolds. If Hypergear can build you a ball bearing GT0SS T3 equiv then thats what I would be doing for the power level you are after. Small turbo and spin the thing hard

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Neg, made 234. The 228 was just @ 6000 revs.

As noted it made 227 @ 5000 revs the day before, with 5psi less boost and on the run in tune.That was on the 17/01/13 with a max of 29, the very next day the weather was 40+ all day long. Workshop temps were over 50 said the tuner.

http://www.elderswea...t=site&lc=66062

Roy while I do appreciate the difference in motor, I still am not sure the additional in effort and cost is warranted. The core flowed into stock housings will bolt back on and go for the retune, not the 3k needed for the kando/manifold/plumbing.

My dyno sheet to follow.

post-43588-0-49785200-1358508792_thumb.jpg

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I am yet to see any hi-flow turbos work really well on an RB20. Perhaps the Hypergears are different?!?! I have not really seen any results in his thread or on forums.

I would not go with a TD05H 20G myself. I run the TD06-20G and they are good for about 260-270 on a std RB20 on 98-100 RON fuel. When I switched to E85 I was able to make 310rwkws with the 20G.

I also have a spare TD05H-18G Kando that I had planned to back to back against the 20G. My expectation was it would only lose 15-20rwkws but have far nicer transient response losing some of the "big turbo" feel the 20G gave the RB20.

I subsequently spent too much money on holidays and booz and have not been able to trial the other turbos on my RB20 so if you are keen for a Kando TD05H-18G then I have one you can buy without the rear housing. In my mind I always thought they would be an almost 2530 like turbo just with the extra 15-20rwkws that 2530 couldnt quite give

I have a TRUST TD05H-18G going on the laurel as we speak, old HKS 2535 literally exploded... massive roller bearing failure lol Should be a good thing.
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I am waiting for him to clarify if he means low mount or stock manifold.

Nobody else on the forum has that result, squillions have tried.

Low mount spaghetti manifold :P std manifold is junk over 300-330 as it works things waaay to hard.
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Any thoughts on how twin 8cm TD06-20Gs with T25 housings (external) would go on a built 3litre on E85? 550kw @ wheels possible?

easy... made 600rwkw with 6cm twins
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Roy while I do appreciate the difference in motor, I still am not sure the additional in effort and cost is warranted. The core flowed into stock housings will bolt back on and go for the retune, not the 3k needed for the kando/manifold/plumbing.

But comapring a freshly built 4cyl 2L with a used std RB20 is probably not going to shed much light on how it will go. Show me the difference between the SS1 and SS1PU and that may shed more light

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I do all my own fab so its only material cost, and I get my tuning done at work. so it wont cost me much in fitting ect, also I found the VG turbo has a massive crack in the rear housing around the waste gate so the housing is stuffed.

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should have CATs interesting 5.7 litre twin kando project on the dyno in about 3 weeks so i will post results here first... as i know 5.7 stroker kits are all the rage in skylines nowadays :P

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