Jump to content
SAU Community

Kando Dynamics Turbo


SimonR32

Recommended Posts

yes very tempted....looks i can only gain it definately has more top end and loses nothing anywhere else :D

its asking alot of my stock manifold, though in theory i could make the same power I do now with a little less boost...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

to me the theoretical limit is in absolutes, so you could still gain midrange :)

its a gamble but seems worth it for sure! And it would be a true back to back for everyone moving forward.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Aren't you simply running moire boost so jump in mid range and power kind of expected?

need to compare thin blue power line to pink line, more power with less boost. i have a feeling the exhaust manifold heaps here too.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah i'm a little confused too Roy, the date on the paper is same date I got mine tuned yet neither graph looks to be mine, as mine seems to fall somewhere inbetween the pink and blue....its actually closer to the pink but with a bit more boost and im topping out earlier..Im wondering if the standard manifold is helping create a little more torque in my midrange as well..

and why is Staos car 10kms slower at 6060rpm??

r33e85tune001_zps3bc225db.jpg20gvspower_zpsb09b9c3c.jpg

the times also dont match, maybe an earlier tune than my final been used or maybe my tune with a high mount got a different result I dunno......obviously I dont yet fully understand the intricacies of dyno tuning but I daresay the small differences we see are just mechanical.....i was also running a 3.5 ex and screamer at time of tune..it has all been plumbed back now..

I think its fair to say the manifold has made some difference. But, it is also fair to say Staos new wheel can definitely pump more boost and power than mine ever could as other cars with the sl2 and high mount haven't made that much power that I know of and usually die out around 20psi... the fact he is making more power even though the boost is dropping off a good 3 psi has to say something about its performance...

unfortunately I'm unemployed and going back to school, so too strapped for cash (read missus will kill me if she sees me spend money on that car) to try it atm but it would be good too do as I think it would be an improvement..got any work Stao maybe I could do some deliveries or wash and detail your car or something, cause technically a fair trade is not spending money on my car right..at least thats what I tell the wife.? :rofl:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I want a new turbo for my RB20DET as its going to be pointless swapping my VG30 OP6 turbo onto my RB20DET-R manifold. Thinking this TD06SL2 8cm with Garrett 60-1 compressor would be a good thing. I have Nistune, Z32 AFM, GT-R injectors, unopened motor, RB20DET-R spaghetti manifold. I am thinking internal gate as space will be at a premium with the turbo placement on that manifold for tapping the exhaust housing for ex. gate, and no way in hell am I cutting up the manifold itself. I'd like to shoot for 1.2-1.5bar boost and hopefully 220-240rwkw.

Is it going to be completely useless for my application?

I was otherwise going to go for a T3/T4 60 trim Garrett with ATP's 'ultimate internal gate' (ford bolt on type)to try and replicate the GTS-R's T04E as closely as possible but the Kando seems an equally good option for a lot less money by the time you factor in all the fittings and stuff.

Thoughts?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hell no, I ain't selling that thing ever! And yeah I'd never chop it up, no way no how. Its been suggested I weld an elbow onto an external gate housing and run a gate off that, or run a spacer with a gate pipe between turbo and manifold, but I think I'm going to run out of room in either situation there (strut tower in the first instance and engine mounts in the second), so I just want to know if I can reasonably successfully run an internal gate at that kind of power/boost level.

Edited by floody
Link to comment
Share on other sites

For 220-240 and internal gate why arent you considering a hypergear?

Get him to make you an SS1PU with a 3" vband outlet on the back, or you can just get the current turbo highflowed to that spec and it will bolt straight back on.

It will be the simplest possible setup you can imagine and should shit in 220. I cant understand why its being overlooked....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For 220-240 and internal gate why arent you considering a hypergear?

Get him to make you an SS1PU with a 3" vband outlet on the back, or you can just get the current turbo highflowed to that spec and it will bolt straight back on.

It will be the simplest possible setup you can imagine and should shit in 220. I cant understand why its being overlooked....

Mostly because I know nothing about them, nobody I know has ever used one, but looking at the spec on their website it sounds like a good thing. That said, its more expensive than even the Garrett option I'm looking at, and almost double the cost of the Kando for the turbo and v-band gate alone. Which is fine if its twice as good?

Edited by floody
Link to comment
Share on other sites

lets not get our knickers in a twist.

I dont see how a garrett could be cheaper than a HG, or how you could consider a kando to be half the price if you had read this thread all the way through. Kando VS HG is something that has been discussed on nearly half the pages in here.

A HG shouldnt cost you any more than $1,100 regardless of which model your looking at. A kando will cost $800, plus $400 for a gate, and probably another $500 to hang the gate off the housing and make a custom dump. The HG will come with the same 6 bolt dump flange you have now if you want it to and will bolt right on as an internal gate.

None of the options available can be said to be better than the other, they all have their ups and downs and you need to read the threads to familiarize yourself with them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lets not get our knickers in a twist.

I dont see how a garrett could be cheaper than a HG, or how you could consider a kando to be half the price if you had read this thread all the way through. Kando VS HG is something that has been discussed on nearly half the pages in here.

A HG shouldnt cost you any more than $1,100 regardless of which model your looking at. A kando will cost $800, plus $400 for a gate, and probably another $500 to hang the gate off the housing and make a custom dump. The HG will come with the same 6 bolt dump flange you have now if you want it to and will bolt right on as an internal gate.

None of the options available can be said to be better than the other, they all have their ups and downs and you need to read the threads to familiarize yourself with them.

The Garrett I am interested in is $740USD for the bare turbo with my choice of exhaust housing, $168usd for the v-band bolt on gate; $908AUD currently. Plus an unknown amount to ship.

The Kando is $785, including a bunch of fittings, choice of wastegate actuator etc.

The Hypergear is listed on site at $1150 for the bare turbo plus $180 for the wastegate, plus shipping.

All linked in my previous post.

So on my maths, so long as the Garrett doesn't cost more than $300 to ship it should come in as cheap as or cheaper than the HG's pre-shipping cost, and no, HG's $1330 isn't double $785 but its getting close. I don't need or want the 6 bolt flange I have now, because the long tube GTS-R manifold turns the turbo almost 90° and sites it lower than the non-R cast manifolds do; no matter what I will be having a V-band dump made.

My preference is for an internal gate turbo (either cast in or bolt on gate) with a V-band outlet.

Edited by floody
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have a radium fuel rail on my Greddy manifold and used the supplied radium fuel injector to manifold adapters (The round green things pictured). I did always wonder if you could just go ahead and use the second lower hole like you're doing... Wouldn't thicker o-rings solve your issue?    
    • From what I've seen and experienced first hand with those powder extinguishers, they're good to use to break a window and escape the car, and half the time then do f**k all to stop a fire. You just need much more than 1KG worth of powder. Not to mention, half the time it's an engine bay fire, and you can't easily, and do not want to completely open the bonnet, so you're left pretending to be an American Infantry... Spray and Pray baby!   And then 100% that shit is really destructive afterwards!   Realistically, those little ones at a race track might help you keep the fire from growing and give the fire marshal / truck a chance to actually get to you with their multiple large bottles.   For a road car, these days, prepare to deboard as quickly as humanly possible, and move to safety. Allow insurance to fix replace it (unless it's like a rare classic etc, then do nearly everything possible to save it!) Keep the little extinguisher with you to help protect other things around you from burning while you stand there singing "How can we sleep while our beds are burning?"   Secondly, powder extinguishers I freaking hate for indoor use, (this isn't really relevant to a car) as you will get a powder fog around you, and it can be disorientating.   When I did fire training when at BlueScope Steel, they have (had?) their own fire brigade on site. We did all the training, and at the end we were told, "If it's an indoor fire, and you need to use a powder extinguisher, we as the fire brigade would rather you just exit the building, you're more likely to get lost in the smoke and powder fog than do much help, so just GTFO" And pretty much that was what they said for most other fires too, grab extinguisher, if it's much more than paper in a bin fire, use extinguisher to get you and others out of the building to safety...   Part of me wishes when my Skyline caught alight many moons ago, I let insurance sort it out, instead of putting the fire out... part of me now says "But I've saved a classic before it was a classic!"
    • Hi all,  I have a older model of the Greddy Front facing intake on an RB25DET NEO Head. I've bought aeroflows fuel rail and injector kit (1000cc Bosche injectors) and I'm unsure if the fitment is correct. The injector o-rings fit in the intake hole but it's not snug. I can very easily rotate the injectors even when the fuel rail is mounted. The kit also came with multiple adaptors, they dont make it any more snug and using them raises the injectors up and i cant mount the fuel rail. I hope this makes sense I've asses a few photos.    Thanks so much guys. 
    • So, to run the 4g aerials to the booster, I had to get access to the rear bulkhead....bit of a mission. Hot tip, don't offer to help change the rear shocks for a mate with a v37.... Remove seat base, 2 clips that slide forward to release it the it lifts straight out Fold down rear seat (pull in from boot) The side bolster of the rear seat is not connected to the middle parts that fold. To remove unbolt at the bottom bolt then push it up off the top hook Then there is a plastic surround behind the seat back, 2 pop out clips, 2 bastard clips, some swearing at it is out Pop the rear seat latch surround off Remove door surround lower trim then side trim  Remove c pillar trim - 4 clips, pull inwards not forwards Remove metal brace - 5 bolts 1 nut Then you have got to the rear strut top...what a pain!
×
×
  • Create New...