Jump to content
SAU Community

Kando Dynamics Turbo


SimonR32

Recommended Posts

dsc05822q.jpg

This is the kinda core I'm using lads. I get where your coming from Scott. I guess I need to decide whether I want the car to look stock and have average power, or put in a conventional cooler kit and gain the missing power I should have, if thats the problem.

well thats a recipe for fail right there..get a proper blitz return flow or something..even a Justjap one would be better than that junk..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I tried to put my T67 10cm housing on my 20G over the weekend and guess what...it didnt fit. Its too small and hits the turbine. So tried the 10cm housing off the TD06H-25G I had and it swims. So it seems Trust run a different turbine again on their twin GTR setups as my20g is one of the pair off a friends R32 GTR

Seems its somewhere between the L2and H. And I have seeb back to back TD06H-25G vs T67-25G and the T67 made 15-20rwkws less..all in the turbine it seems...was a rad laggier by 100-200rpm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well thats a recipe for fail right there..get a proper blitz return flow or something..even a Justjap one would be better than that junk..

The reason why I went with that type is because I'd smack the shit out of the bottom pipe due to the cars height. I'll probably go conventional setup. Could an intercooler restrict the amount of boost a turbo can make, or limit power at a certian point?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Roy I'm sure you are aware but:

TD06SL2 = 61mm

TD06S = 65mm

TD06SH = 67mm

So its no surprise your regular TD06S doesn't fit the T67 housing but is too small for the TD06SH........... Its meant to be.

Unless I am missing something the above is your answer.

In terms of flow the TD06SH > TD06SL2 > TD06S.

I hope that helps..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The reason why I went with that type is because I'd smack the shit out of the bottom pipe due to the cars height. I'll probably go conventional setup. Could an intercooler restrict the amount of boost a turbo can make, or limit power at a certian point?

its not limiting the amount of boost it can make, its limiting the amount of boost that you can effectively reach because the knock threshold turns to shit.

that intercooler would be by far the worst possible option you can have.

IMHO it would hold back power to a point close to the stock side mount and would also harm spool.

CHANGE IT AND THEN KILL IT WITH FIRE.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got a mate with a normal return flow intercooler kit, I'll swap with him for a few days and see if anything happens eh (and see if I could actually run such a setup at my height).


Cheers for the advice guys :D

Edited by Run-It-Hard
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have a read of the hypergear thread the above shown return flow is good for about 250kw until it encounters the same issue.

I think 1 or 2 members have achieved more with top notch jap branded kits... but that are more or less one off cases.


Go the conventional route and ditch the headache and question out of your mind!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Roy I'm sure you are aware but:

TD06SL2 = 61mm

TD06S = 65mm

TD06SH = 67mm

So its no surprise your regular TD06S doesn't fit the T67 housing but is too small for the TD06SH........... Its meant to be.

Unless I am missing something the above is your answer.

In terms of flow the TD06SH > TD06SL2 > TD06S.

I hope that helps..

But strange thing is that this turbine doesnt match any of those. The T67 that I swapped housings with was the twin T67s that repalced the twin 20Gs on the same car and I wonder whether the turbines are specific to twin GTR setups!?!?!

On the same dyno my car has if anything made the same power but with better reponse than the several L2s that have been tuned. I had bought an L2 based on what everyone had posted but after a few more RB20-20Gs rolled through my tuners workshop and we had compared results....well I sold my L2 to Kris for his drift car. So I wasnt convinced it flowed any better. Perhaps if an L2 fella ran E85 and we could see if they flowed better at 24psi and 300+rwkws

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's very odd. It may be something like a TC turbine or similar.

Can you get me the Inducer and Exducer measurements, along with a blade count? I will have a look and see what it marry's up against.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From what I have found online a TC06 will be 12 blade and 64mm. Smaller than a normal TD06.

That info may not be accurate though..

The TC06 turbine blades have an obvious cup shape to them.. Its not what were used to seeing in terms of turbine aero. Very 80s.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kando have had a few oddball (unexpected) units on offer, including the Hino (truck) spec GT3576 (plain bearing, split pulse IW turbine). Not surprised to see that GT3071.

Likewise the TD06 hybrid with TO4R compressor, it's been around as have other hybrids with the old-school 60-1 compressor. Maybe not the most efficient stuff but they can work reasonably well at the price.

Re the TD07 unit, I think the main thing that will differentiate them from the TDO6 based units is the size of the centre section, bigger diameter shaft, and no water cooling option. Take a cue from the T67-25G.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Dale, I already have a TD06sh-25G so I was thinking if it don't make enough power I might convert it to a TD07S-25G. I finally pulled my finger out and decided to fix my wastegate now that I don't melt when I walk into my shed . Seems all the info I find is where people have them on rotary's.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah td07s 25g with 16cm rear seems the turbo for a rotary, but i dont think kando do that rear do they?

Also they are offering a t04 compressor housing and wheel kit, just curious if anyone has tried to fit this to a stock nissan turbo? I'm seriously considring buying this kit, having the shaft balenced then seeing whats possible.

Any suggestions stao?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

, but

I already have a TD06sh-25G so I was thinking if it don't make enough power I might convert it to a TD07S-25G. Seems all the info I find is where people have them on rotary's.

The TD06SH + 12cm should offer a fair bit more turbine flow than the SL2 + 10cm found on the T67 25G. I think that the SH will be enough to handle all the flow a 25G can throw at it so maybe pointless going for bigger turbine unless you're looking at capacity bigger than 3 litre. I can't find hard evidence on the TDO7 specs but it seems likely to offer nothing other than a 0.5mm bigger shaft.

I'd say run the SH and see how it performs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • 8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
×
×
  • Create New...