Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So my brothers GT3076R packed it in. He's been through a few now so its time to give garrett the flick royale.

Throw some opinions around guys. Is it T67 time or TD06H 25G? Is for a Sigma 2.6L which made light work of spooling the 3076R .63 (spooled very early, very easy).

So my brothers GT3076R packed it in. He's been through a few now so its time to give garrett the flick royale.

Throw some opinions around guys. Is it T67 time or TD06H 25G? Is for a Sigma 2.6L which made light work of spooling the 3076R .63 (spooled very early, very easy).

I had a 34 turbo on mine and it used to spool in reverse :P

It had a ugly T3/T4 thing on it before that and was laggy as! But the car was a heap of shit haha

So my brothers GT3076R packed it in. He's been through a few now so its time to give garrett the flick royale.

Throw some opinions around guys. Is it T67 time or TD06H 25G? Is for a Sigma 2.6L which made light work of spooling the 3076R .63 (spooled very early, very easy).

I'd say the smart thing to do would be work out what he has wrong with his setup which resulted in the GT3076Rs dying, instead of just changing brands

I already know why it died. The reason for the change is that it is expensive to repair the garrett when these things happen, not because it's necessarily the turbos fault. Garrett themselves no longer make a rebuild kit, so the only things to salvage are the front and rear housings.

A new core is $850+ and being the 3rd one the car has had we are finding them to be a little too delicate for the agricultural spec Astron 2.6.. So its time to move to something which is cheaply replaced/repaired in the event of failure (spare T67 cores are about $350 delivered).

A Kando is $750 delivered and I can cheaply replace it when he blows it up, which he will. He doesn't need/deserve a ball bearing turbo on there let along the Kando anyway lol

I had a 34 turbo on mine and it used to spool in reverse :P

It had a ugly T3/T4 thing on it before that and was laggy as! But the car was a heap of shit haha

LOL! the GT30 was similar... it almost always has boost. it only really developed a 'turbo' character when he put a massive stage 5 cam in it.

They do but for some reason they only sell them as hybrids of the two.

Ie 3560-1 or T04R82.

I'm leaning toward a simple T67 atm as its not far off what he had in all ways and is cheaply and easily replaced.

He's quoted me on repairing the GT30 core with a G3 core and reusing the compressor side and housings... But turbine would change and cost is up there with a replacement core.

am liking the kando more atm due to availability and cost effective replacement if anything goes wrong. Knowing this motor its likely to root another turbo, and knowing Stao he's likely to want to fix it for free every time. This is just a cleaner arrangement and I can maintain a good relationship too.

am potentially looking at a tial .63 housing on one of his L2 74mm items for the SR though. I think he's onto something awesome there

New results from td06sh-25g 10cm on sr22 with 260 12.5mm cams.. 300rwkw by 4500rpm... 8500rpm rev limit.. sequential box = mental.

Nice. After my playing with turbos I was just going to go with my one but went T67 just so I could baseline my results against others as I am still not sure about the performance of my new kinder surprise engine. I have said this before but this time will follow through. Need to get my car over to you for a few runs so I can understand whether its far off what a T67 setup can do,

I am making 325rwklws at 18psi falling to 16psi from about 5,500rpm onwards. After PI am going to make a few changes then will give it a few runs. Feels pretty healthy at 16psi and will be pretty easy on the engien and the track...also a little easier on the RB20 box

New results from td06sh-25g 10cm on sr22 with 260 12.5mm cams.. 300rwkw by 4500rpm... 8500rpm rev limit.. sequential box = mental.

Making a lot of power but falls away after 6500 - don't know why you'd want to spin it up to 8500.

With the goodness relatively concentrated in a tight band I'd want those ratios tightly spaced too :)

Great result though and full credit due - what does the boost curve look like?

Edited by Dale FZ1

Making a lot of power but falls away after 6500 - don't know why you'd want to spin it up to 8500.

With the goodness relatively concentrated in a tight band I'd want those ratios tightly spaced too :)

Great result though and full credit due - what does the boost curve look like?

its only just drops 25-30kw at 8500 (this run cut early as it was tuned up there already.... ) with 8500 it allows you to to change less on the track even with the close ratio sequential its mental... never driven anything like it with a healthy 4000rpm torque and power band its crazy.

when compared to a similar 3litre powered rb2530 neo with VCT (graph shows vct on and off) attached you can see just how insane the little sr is.. the rpm band is a similar 3500-4000rpm.

post-34927-0-73415300-1367032728_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...